375rwhp is the goal

[jdpber]

how about one of these........ **** ill send you 2

 

[JennaBear]

Interesting, so I have 2 questions then:
1) What kind of dyno do you recommend using? You'll have to forgive my lack of blindly following information as I really try to see things for myself.

2) Is a 100HP increase on a dynojet a 100HP increase? Previous dyno of 227HP and now 331HP....is it still a 100HP increase or is that skewed too?

I'm going to track down your recommended dyno and see whats up.

Using the same dyno to compare the before and after is a good way to go about it. So yes, on that dyno you did see an 104HP increase, but it is inflated for real world numbers. But, it is a consistent number for the dyno you used.

We recommend using a load bearing dyno for tuning, however, if you are just looking for numbers, a DynoJet will suffice.

 

[Dales396LT4]

The Dyno is just a tool to gage the improvement or in this case to check A/F and RWHP. TSFR: your tune is on the rich side and will gain some from timing as well… More People tune with Dyno-jet than any other Dyno in the world. A 100rwhp is a 100rwhp and at $2500 you did a Great Job using all GM Parts to do it.

 

[Firsttruck]

So...I went to the dyno at lunch today



DYNO RUN LINK

Nice! I'm new here and just doing a little looking around trying to find someone doing something extreme like this...lol...I don't plan on getting extreme with my truck, but I do have a drag racing back ground. My previous car was a 2004 gto that I drag raced I had a 408 cubic inch stroker in it that was build with an lq9 6.0 liter block. You did the right thing going with the bigger motor over the 5.3. If you get to crazy with the cam on the smaller motor you could make alot of horse power, but in these trucks it would suck because you lose the low end torque. It looks like you have a nice amount of low end torque with the 6.0 which is what you will feel more in a heavy truck. Also with the auto trans, heavier wheels on a truck, heavy rear end parts, and the lower the gear in the rear are all things that will lead to lower dyno numbers.

Here is an idle clip of my GTO I had with a 408 in it...I'm guessing you could do something VERY similar in these trucks if you wanted to get crazy. Maybe use a different cam if you wanted to emphasize torque over horse power...

[yt]sPXLcoI8TxU[/yt]

 

[TSFR]

SO...I finally got my shit straight. As it was last left, I have been rolling around with that glaring SEL staring me in the face because my camshaft position sensor was no longer picking anything up after switching to the TBSS (Gen4) cam where the sensor is now in the front of the motor.

My options were:
A) get a new cam $$$
B) get a newer timing cover w/cam position sensor, timing gear and extend the wires to the new CPS. $$
C) live with the embarrasment of it being a pain to start at times....most of them being in a crowd LOL

After guidance from Jennabear and others on various forums I went with option B! Less than $80 and my problem is solved. The SEL went out on its own within 10 miles and it starts as expected everytime now

THANKS Jenna!

Lessons learned, make sure you have the same gen motor as the parts your swapping with LOL! AND dont skimp on headers. I love the power it makes and couldnt be happier especially for the money I have in it. Maybe not 375 to the wheels, but 331 is still pretty hot.

 

[JennaBear]

Glad you got it all up and running now!

 

[bottomline2000]

good read and thanks for the heads up. This is exactly what I'm looking at. I will do the tune thru BB with the autocal. Sucks to have to pay for the tune again, but then again its worth it. I'm giving Jenna a break until I collect all my parts then its on!