4 Hi mod help

[SunlitComet]

explain this low trip you are listing. but it sound like something is wrong with the low out beam outputs from the relay to lamps. regardell you should have enoogn at 12 v to run everything. on you lose one light is it the same one?

 

[lucasbrackins]

How to wire up the 4-HI mod.

The low trip is the wire that closes the low relay

---------- Post added at 04:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:52 PM ----------

The owner of the company designs his own ballasts and said that if the power flickers the relay will shut its self off

---------- Post added at 05:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:54 PM ----------

97% of the time it is the passenger side low beam that i lose when switching from high to low, i switched the high and low ballasts on that side to eliminate a ballast problem as well as switched the bulbs but still have the same problem, it works fine with the factory halogen bulbs with the HID relay harnesses

 

[SunlitComet]

link to said company and products for study. i want exact details on how the relay shuts down on flickering so the low trigger wire is fed from the vehicle head switch. would look into seeing the factory wiring and switch is dragging the volts down.


measure volts at lighting maxifuse 50a under hood. on back of head switch, volts on the biggest red wire. and volts on the yellow when turned on and finally volt on light green before it enters relay harness. please.

 

[lucasbrackins]

14.8 at the maxifuse and 13.1 on light green before relay, biggest red wire is 13.9 and yellow when turned on is 13.7 the companys website doesnt have info like that on it

---------- Post added at 06:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:10 PM ----------

i put a 80a in instead of 50 and it fixed the problem i was having with losing a drl when going from headlights to drls

---------- Post added at 06:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:17 PM ----------

i thiink the diode is the problem considering i have a .6v loss just through the diode

 

[SunlitComet]

of course it doesn't. cant have any info to understand how the hell its made and whats it made off now can we. you might want to jiggle your wires bundles to move terminals around to get a cleaner connection on them might boost the voltage downstream a bit but like not a whole lot due to age or wire size. but with those volts still you should have no problem running high and low ballasts. if they are all all and suddenly one lamp fails with out touching anything swap out the ballast and bulb.
i am sorry but if you are sure the grounds everywhere are good and you only loose one light there is really nothing else to try.

---------- Post added at 03:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:22 PM ----------

Remove the 80 AMP fuse immidiaetly. You are creating a fire risk.

if you want try another 50amp fuse go ahead. the wire on that fuse can not deal with a continous 80 amp flowing three it so if the wire after the fuse shorted you can likely kiss your vehicle good bye.

 

[lucasbrackins]

its not just one side it jumps back and forth i even switched out the high and low relay harnesses to make sure it wasnt a wiring problem with them

---------- Post added at 06:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:27 PM ----------

how about a 60 still too much?

---------- Post added at 06:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:30 PM ----------

well went back to a 50 and the pporblem is gone now

---------- Post added at 06:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:31 PM ----------

It has to be the diode because they only do it when its in there

---------- Post added at 07:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:54 PM ----------

if you flip between high and low fast it works fine but when you go slow is when i lose a low beam

---------- Post added at 08:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:43 PM ----------

the majority of the time it works like this fast i lose passenger side low
slow i lose driver side low???????

---------- Post added at 08:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:20 PM ----------

do i still need to try the kit from painless?

 

[SunlitComet]

speed makes no difference. if this is all from the same seller and the sides are random then if grounds are good get the seller to replace it all. a diode does not discriminant between sides in this situation nor do relays as you system is described to me but individual ballasts or wiring condition can. the diode it not the ideal way to get a 4hi mode. even the one that is on the power line of the drl circuit under the dash is huge with a heat sink on it. i suggest you get the kit to eliminate any possibility of have to guess on diode condition.

this is getting confusing now. from post to post you say it is working then not working or vice-verse when say changing a fuse or diode or the speed at which you change modes. if you have replaced those already stop replacing them over and over. a bigger fuse does not solve this issues either. if you want to replace anything replace this stuff that the seller of your hids and harness sold you. if they have do not info on there products available for you to see and just says it works i would have not bought from them in the first place. period. it like buying goods out of the back of a van.

---------- Post added at 09:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:02 PM ----------

just so you know there have been 76 posts in the last few days on your issue alone you really have to consider that maybe the hid/harness stuff you have might be faulty and perhaps chuck it for something else.

 

[lucasbrackins]

the only thing i have changed out from the harness kit he sent me is the relays and they are a auto zone brand i talked to my uncle who is a robotics engineer and he said to find some relays that use less amps to close???? worth a try

 

[SunlitComet]

how many amps are the drawing each?

 

[lucasbrackins]

140 mA each

---------- Post added at 11:35 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:34 AM ----------

so that would be 280mA just on the high wire to activate high and low