4L60E Information Thread (Includes 4L65E/4L70E)

[NickTransmissions]

I'm about to tackle a few upgrades on a 4l70e that I just picked up for my 79 C30 dually. It will never tow heavy, maybe 10/11k at most. Engine is a 6.0ls with a baby cam. Trans has already been overhauled to factory specs so I want to upgrade the servos and valve body stuff. Struggling a bit with the parts list and know what I can pull off on my own. The play list is an awesome find, thanks for that....

Thanks, man....what about the parts list are you struggling with? If you can explain that in a bit more detail, i can point you in the right direction.

 

[sparkie124]

Thanks, man....what about the parts list are you struggling with? If you can explain that in a bit more detail, i can point you in the right direction.

I want the 77911-03k and 77767k and have done that before. I think I can handle the SC-4l60e since its pump/body stuff. Do I need an HP-4l60e-01? I don't want to get into the gears and bearing or what I'd call the core. So what parts on the list would not require me to remove the core that would help an already refurbished unit. Just trying to make sure it lives up to towing my other toys around, and maybe some burnouts.....lol

 

[NickTransmissions]

I want the 77911-03k and 77767k and have done that before. I think I can handle the SC-4l60e since its pump/body stuff. Do I need an HP-4l60e-01? I don't want to get into the gears and bearing or what I'd call the core. So what parts on the list would not require me to remove the core that would help an already refurbished unit. Just trying to make sure it lives up to towing my other toys around, and maybe some burnouts.....lol

Are those Sonnax parts or from another manufacturer?

Let's just use common terms for the parts inside the transmission. High-level, you have the following:

- 2-4 Servo assembly
- Valve Body/Spacer plate
- 1-2 and 3-4 accumulators
- Pump boost and PR valve (accessible from underneath the transmission; no need to remove transmission to replace these valves)
- Pump TCC Control-lock up valve (accessible from underneath the transmission; no need to remove transmission to replace this valve)

-------------------------------ignore everything below this line------------------------------------

Pump Assembly-rotor/slide pocket/bushings, etc
Reverse input drum
Forward drum (aka Input drum), including input sprag gear assembly and one-way input sprag clutch
Front gear set
Sun shell
Center support w/low roller one-way clutch
Rear gear set
Low Reverse piston

---------------------------------ignore everything above this line------------------------------------------
If the transmission is healthy, you can disregard doing anything with any of the parts underneath that line (the boost and pressure regulator valves and associated springs can be removed without removing the transmission from the vehicle.

I never buy the full sure cure kits, they're usually a waste of money...You only need the Sonnax LB1-4L60E, TCC control - lock up valve for HD use and 1-2 pinless accumulator. You don't need the springs either but you can install them if you'd like. The AFL and TCC reg valves that Sonnax sells require you to ream the valve body using their reamers and holding fixture/jig set up...I have those and use them to remanufacture valve bodies but unless you want to spend nearly $1000.00 on tools, you can just buy Central Valve Body's oversized AFL valves and install Fitzalls TCC regulator valve kit and drop them right in, no reaming/drilling/machining required. Block the 3-2 downshift valve inboard with whatever fits and works - take the 3-2 downshift valve spring and put it inside the AFL main spring in the valve body - that will give you about a 10% increase in AFL-to-solenoid signal pressure, which is always helpful in any heavy duty or performance build.

Since you have experience with installing the super hold servo kits, you know how to install them and check for band clearance/servo travel (if not, Sonnax instructions are very helpful and give you the info you need). Just make sure you drill the spacer plate in phase with your vehicle's overall application, rear gearing, converter stall speed, 2nd/4th gear servo used (the larger the servo apply surface area, the firmer your shifts will be, all other things equal).

Install the Sonnax 1-2 accumulator piston, get a standard aluminum forward accumulator piston and either use another pinless accumulator piston in the 4th accumulator location or simply block the accumulator off all together and leave the bore completely empty.

Lastly, install the Sonnax boost valve kit and TCC control valve kit into the pump - you will need a small pair of snap ring pliers for this task.

 

[89Suburban]

Bumping this one up....Ive been seeing a lot of threads on 4L60E transmission replacement lately and know not everyone can afford to drop $1500-$3000 on a complete rebuild on short notice so are looking to the used transmission market as a stop gap solution.

To that end, I decided to do a video on the things I look for when buying a 4L60E or 700R4 core to rebuild and threw in a bunch of tips for folks looking for one to bolt in "as-is" to get the vehicle back on the road quickly while they save for a proper overhaul or replacement.

Feel free to ask questions or add some tips of your own; if I get enough input ill do a part 2 or 3 (I'm already planning a 4L60E interchange video as well so look for that in the next couple weeks or so).

Appreciate this Nick.

 

[sparkie124]

Are those Sonnax parts or from another manufacturer?

Let's just use common terms for the parts inside the transmission. High-level, you have the following:

- 2-4 Servo assembly
- Valve Body/Spacer plate
- 1-2 and 3-4 accumulators
- Pump boost and PR valve (accessible from underneath the transmission; no need to remove transmission to replace these valves)
- Pump TCC Control-lock up valve (accessible from underneath the transmission; no need to remove transmission to replace this valve)

-------------------------------ignore everything below this line------------------------------------

Pump Assembly-rotor/slide pocket/bushings, etc
Reverse input drum
Forward drum (aka Input drum), including input sprag gear assembly and one-way input sprag clutch
Front gear set
Sun shell
Center support w/low roller one-way clutch
Rear gear set
Low Reverse piston

---------------------------------ignore everything above this line------------------------------------------
If the transmission is healthy, you can disregard doing anything with any of the parts underneath that line (the boost and pressure regulator valves and associated springs can be removed without removing the transmission from the vehicle.

I never buy the full sure cure kits, they're usually a waste of money...You only need the Sonnax LB1-4L60E, TCC control - lock up valve for HD use and 1-2 pinless accumulator. You don't need the springs either but you can install them if you'd like. The AFL and TCC reg valves that Sonnax sells require you to ream the valve body using their reamers and holding fixture/jig set up...I have those and use them to remanufacture valve bodies but unless you want to spend nearly $1000.00 on tools, you can just buy Central Valve Body's oversized AFL valves and install Fitzalls TCC regulator valve kit and drop them right in, no reaming/drilling/machining required. Block the 3-2 downshift valve inboard with whatever fits and works - take the 3-2 downshift valve spring and put it inside the AFL main spring in the valve body - that will give you about a 10% increase in AFL-to-solenoid signal pressure, which is always helpful in any heavy duty or performance build.

Since you have experience with installing the super hold servo kits, you know how to install them and check for band clearance/servo travel (if not, Sonnax instructions are very helpful and give you the info you need). Just make sure you drill the spacer plate in phase with your vehicle's overall application, rear gearing, converter stall speed, 2nd/4th gear servo used (the larger the servo apply surface area, the firmer your shifts will be, all other things equal).

Install the Sonnax 1-2 accumulator piston, get a standard aluminum forward accumulator piston and either use another pinless accumulator piston in the 4th accumulator location or simply block the accumulator off all together and leave the bore completely empty.

Lastly, install the Sonnax boost valve kit and TCC control valve kit into the pump - you will need a small pair of snap ring pliers for this task.

Sonax part numbers based off your parts list, maybe...lol. I think I can get with this now though. Ill read through it a few times and get my part number list right.

 

[NickTransmissions]

Sonax part numbers based off your parts list, maybe...lol. I think I can get with this now though. Ill read through it a few times and get my part number list right.

I dont have all part numbers memorized and typically refer to parts by name, ie "sure cure kit" or "super hold servo"...hopefully my response helped you

 

[NickTransmissions]

Appreciate this Nick.

Thanks, man - glad it was helpful.

 

[Mudsport96]

Thought I subscribed when this first got posted but somehow messed that up. Subbed your YouTube channel yesterday though. Lot of helpful stuff there. I have done a variety of units from the big 3 but thinking about tackling a 200-4r. If I can find a decent core for my nova locally. So when I get some time I'll be watching that Playlist.
Thanks for all the great info

 

[NickTransmissions]

Bumping this thread up with a new video on buying 4L60Es with a focus on all the changes through the years, how to tell the differences between various versions of separator plate as well as modifying/adapting these transmissions to work in different vintages (i.e. date ranges) of vehicles than originally produced for at the factory.

 

[Mudsport96]

Haven't had a chance to watch yet, but will put my experience in here.

How to buy a 1995 vehicle with a 4l60e: Dont