4X4 Offroading Here I Come

[ge0rgin0]

Well after about a little over 1 year i got the patient up and running again.

PATIENT: 1996 Tahoe 4x4
205,*** miles
ILLNESS: Tranny Issues
SURGERY: A & B Shift Solenoids

I had taken it to various shops most of which said it needed a overhaul $800-$1700 ugh but i read up on it extensively and the $33 spent on solenoids, gasket & filter paid off very well wish I had changed them out sooner. Just procrastinated and well that job tends to get messy but got it done in about 2hrs. I noticed the new solenoids had a significant bigger diameter and screen which would allow for more flow.

So NOW instead of spending money on the tranny, i can get right into building up this puppy. but first i got this weird Misfire causing check engine light to blink which was already present before having the Tranny issues.

Cap & rotor had never been replaced so i decided to change out with a Duralast Gold combo and it ocurred more frequently. Wires & plugs also changed out. Thinking of getting a better brand, testing the ignition coil, and looking into a new distributor to breath new firing power in this 5.7L but parts from where? RockAuto? Any recommendations?

Also how much am I looking at for a 6inch lift? What size tires are good? I wanna build this Truck to make some good memories. Thnx in advance

 

[Creese99]

Definitely rock auto. Go with better brand ignition parts. Acdelco preferably. Maybe change the Vehilce Speed Sensor on the tranny output shaft and that should help. Have you done any other work to the truck?

 

[ge0rgin0]

The 96 Tahoe is stock, lots of parts replaced over the years water pump, radiator, hoses, thermostat, spark plugs, wires, cap & rotor, Brakes all around, front end suspension components, battery, filters, has 1 rubber freeze plug, had it over 7yrs.

Next in the immediate list:
Front & Rear Diff. Fluid Change
Master 4L60E Shift Solenoid Kit Install
(Should have done this when i dropped the pan)
Tranny Fluid Change
Motor Oil Change
Ignition Control Module & Coil
Any and all exterior tranny sensors


Anyone ever done a tranny flush/clean? Like with Seafoam TransTune

 

[Creese99]

Have you ever done the intake manifold gaskets? At 200,000 it's probably due. I need to do the master solenoid kit myself.

 

[ge0rgin0]

I checked Primary & Secondary Resistance on the coil, not surprised needs replacement lol but its just pretty nice to obtain a numeric value on an electric component to determine that it is shot, SCIENCE!!

Also anyone ever relocated that bracket to mount it? im thinking of relocating it to the firewall.

 

[ge0rgin0]

Have you ever done the intake manifold gaskets? At 200,000 it's probably due. I need to do the master solenoid kit myself.

Nope all gaskets are original, dont got a Check Engine Light other than the P0300 code. The truck was my moms until I she got a Lincoln Towncar so it wasnt driven hard

 

[Creese99]

I would definitely check those intake gaskets, if original, the coolant is more than likely leaking into the oil passages. Mine had been done before with felpro, but upon diss assembly, they were all ate up and leaking. Sounds like you know what you're doing, but just throwing that out there.
For a trans flush I empty it via the trans cooler line(bottom line on the radiator) with the truck running, keep adding fluid till it runs fresh fluid out. lubeguard brand products only in mine. With 230,000 on the clock and mine shifts damn good. I baby the sh*t out of mine tho.
If you do mount the ignition coil/module on the firewall, let me know how that turns out.

 

[willxfs]

If your not leaking antifreeze, consider yourself lucky. Also, if you have the pink dexcool antifreeze in there and dont know how long its been in there, you may want to do a coolant flush at some point. Its a good product (some disagree) but it turns acidic after the recommend life span and can cause problems. I'm glad you posted about the resistance check on the coil. I need to check that on my 1998 2 door with 265K on the clock. Good luck with your project!

 

[ge0rgin0]

The spark plugs come out clean, no oil residue when i change them. Still passes a legit inspection test. Valve cover gaskets is what i need for sure.
It doesnt burn oil.

Every 2-3yrs i change the antifreeze & thermostat so no trouble there.

As for the coil, i replaced it and check engine light went off. It took it like 2 days of driving to get used to but when i would feel it bogging down i would actually hear like a spark somewhere on the passenger side. It drives wonderful now, weird experience but im still gonna do that master shift solenoid kit.


http://www.cascadetransmissionparts.com/

Btw ignition control module passed the test multiple times.

....im now in sesrch of sone 33 or 35s. Stock size rim

 

[ge0rgin0]

Well the P0300 code came back about a week later from the previous post so it wasnt just the coil. 2yrs back i had purchased Cap & Rotor with 5yr warranty. I took them off and upgraded to the Distributor, Cap & Rotor combo for $95 Lifetime Warranty yea!! Also while i was at it painted the valve covers and reinstalled with new gaskets. I did an A/C system delete and mounted the new Ignition Coil (also lifetime warranty) and Stock ICM on the firewall where its nice and easy to work with. New spark plug wires(swapped for a new set) & spark plugs to top it off. Adjusted with Timing Gun etc that Vortec Kitty is purring better than ever. But now i got a p0107 Code that popped up last night after I finished gonna have to check that out. I have also a small exhaust leak at the header/y pipe flange when i hit a rock before i did all these repairs, but that p0107 wasnt coming on. Something i left disconnected but oh man is the motor alive now!! My CEL is usually off all the time so I gotta fix this first before i chase down those 33s or 35s