5.3 Tick/Knock?

[JPVortex]

Well here’s a sending unit update lol.

The NAPA one was garbage, read like 15psi at warm idle.

So I actually managed to get the oil pressure test gauge behind the intake and test it, 45psi cold, 30psi warm.

So I returned the Napa one and ordered a GM Genuine off Amazon. Came in today, and got installed in 5 minutes(I’m becoming a certified pro at getting my hand back there at this point) and fired it up.

Now the thing reads 65psi cold, when it does only have 45psi. I’m going to say it’s good enough.

I’ve heard other people on here say the dash gauge for oil pressure is not accurate and it’s basically “Just a way to tell that you actually do have oil pressure”, so I’m going to choose to believe that.

Now pretty much, I’m going to throw some 10w40 in there instead of 5w30, thing it’s due for a step up in viscosity. Also ordered a snake oil, Liqui Moly lifter additive, in case this tick is a lifter and not exhaust. And lastly, I have plans to put shorty headers in place of the manifolds. Hopefully no other bolts will break getting it out, but I’m going to heat using a torch before I spin them out. The 2 that’s already broken thankfully are sticking out and are not lodged in the head. So I’ll use a stud removal tool or vice grips to get those out.

 

[JPVortex]

Been a while since I've updated about the Suburban's tick. Just kind of been living with it ticking, so no the engine did not have a catastrophic failure! Finally took the time today to rig up a way to see if the broken exhaust manifold bolts were causing the tick, and based on the results in this video, I'd say it is! Lol.

Time to put some Ebay chinese special shorty headers on it, hopefully I don't break anymore manifold bolts pulling them out! Probably going to use PB Blaster, hit them with heat and then impact them off, scared the twisting of a ratchet is going to snap them all off. The ones that are already broken are both sticking out of the head. A stud extractor should get at them.