5.3L no compression cylinder #6

[ccapehartusarmyINF.(ret)]

back in 1998 i bought a brand new chevy s-10 after 9000 miles i had the same problem
almost no compression on one of the cylinders GM replaced the block after 9600 miles

 

[crazyikon86]

your gonna need ls7 lifters, lifter trays and valley cover then tune. to replace all this you have to pull the heads and thats where your labor all is.

 

[OR VietVet]

your gonna need ls7 lifters, lifter trays and valley cover then tune. to replace all this you have to pull the heads and thats where your labor all is.

Sorry, but I have to respond. While this is likely right, can you please type it out in English instead of crap? I am so freakin' tired of thug answers for you guys. I will stop responding if you prefer this crap. Let me know. I am just tired of getting responses that their grandmother would shake their heads at.

 

[crazyikon86]

I'm on my phone and don't care to write it all out. O yeah **** off.

 

[D_middlestead]

Ok well this is def not helping. Sorry I been away for a couple days but I could use all the help I can get. I don't give a shit nor will I complain about any help. But back to subject if we can please. My mechanic think he found the root cause of the issue. Car will be done in the next couple days and I will update exactly what was done to resolve it. Thanks everyone.

 

[Reels]

Posting in the right year forum may get you better results.

 

[sparkness]

Regarding the lifter collapse, I had #4 cyl intake lifter collapse an what I did was tried to flush the engine out using motorflush and put carb cleaner directly into the lifter squirting it down the pushrod tube. it would not un stick. So next I installed a longer pushrod (factory is 7.397) I made a pushrod 7.675 put it in and it ran on eight then became very tickety . I opened up the valve cover , removed the rocker and the lifter was now un stuck. I put the stock pushrod back and it was collapsing but no longer stuck down , measured the lash and made a new pushrod 7.960 no ticking and banging on all 8 smooth as usual , but you get some noise when it switches to v4 and back to v8 due to the fact that the intake valve is open on this cylinder during v4 mode , I will get a tuner to program out AFV so it will stay a v8 . The true fix will be to replace all AFM lifters or complete AFM removal. For now I can cause an engine code to disable AFM by opening up a wire or shorting a wire to the VLOM solenoid .

 

[chrisok72]

While I appreciate this great information about lifters and the AVF.. And it's all new to me, I'm just experiencing my issues for the first time and it sucks. But I own a 07 Yukon 5.3 4wd.. My code reader said #4 misfired.. And now says multiple misfires.. I changed all my plugs, gaped to .040 with AC Delco, the wires too and a new coil pack. Still showed misfire code, had compression test from GM dealer. Results were no compression to #4.
To fix they recommend new lifters for #4. About $1600 to replace.. Any thoughts on what I should do since my engine will be apart? I read about a new updated valve cover, better lifters and tuning out the AVF..?!!! I like to school GM with a Plan to fix it correctly first, rather than fix the lifter and then GM tell me "oh well we could have done this and this while your engine was apart, but now to do that it will cost XXXX amount of $$ now that the work is done" BS that GM is famous for.. Can anyone give me a run down of what to have done when they fix my #4?

PS.. I typed all this up from my cell phone and it's in perfect English

 

[alex86]

Hi all,

i'm having exactly the same issue. Any updates? it sad to read all these steps and miss the conclusion !

i got a quotation for $2500 to fix the issue