5.7 Vortec EGR Delete
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Danny_Z56
Full Access Member
Thus far i have left my EGR intact,i seafoamed my intake pretty good so...
If i get a tune done i will most likely have my EGR tunned out.I have had a few tunes done in the past and always had the EGR tuned out,why? well it was an option on the order sheet so i figured F it,im paying for this tune so i'll get everything i can get!
I noticed no MPG drop with the EGR tunned out of my PCM.
The way i see it,the EGR does good things and some bad things,its a hard toss...
If i get a tune done i will most likely have my EGR tunned out.I have had a few tunes done in the past and always had the EGR tuned out,why? well it was an option on the order sheet so i figured F it,im paying for this tune so i'll get everything i can get!
I noticed no MPG drop with the EGR tunned out of my PCM.
The way i see it,the EGR does good things and some bad things,its a hard toss...
99Yuk
Full Access Member
Yup, that's how I felt too. So when I got my tune, I ordered the EGR and O2's deleted. I still havn't pulled the EGR wiring plug out yet or ordered the block off kit yet. I didn't care about MPG, but I did want to see the crap and gunk not reintroduced into the intake.
edgeofvamp
TYF Newbie
- Joined
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I realize i am reviving an old thread with good reason
I wanted to add this for everyone that comes across this post.
The purpose for an EGR valve is a simple emissions system. The problem is it carries more cons than pros-especially the higher the mileage gets.
Its sole purpose is to reroute a programmed amount of inert gasses from the exhaust during start up and throughout the rpm range.
The good:
This partially fills the cylinder with inert gas reducing the amount of air/fuel mixture required in the cylinder to fire.
This reduces the emissions and fuel consumption marginally(average reported is .4mpg).
The bad:
By reducing the air/fuel mixture, it is effectively reducing power. This is further made problematic, by the position of the EGR inlet in correlation to the intake. As they are opposing(vortech 5.7L engine as example), only the front 4 cylinders are receiving the inert gasses and effectively making the power uneven throughout the cylinders causing unequal power distribution and forcing the rear 4 to carry the brunt of the workload. Thus causing undo stress to all rotating assemblies and unnecessary wear.
The system is also prone to plugging and failure, and in doing so can cause unmetered air and/or constantly fluctuating inert gas being injected. Causing possible detonation and idle issues.
With higher mileage or poor tuning, you get a wonderful mixture of carbon, oil and unspent fuel pumped back into your engine. This mixture builds up on the intake, tracts, valves, pistons and tips of injectors. The oil and extra fuel mixes with the atomized fuel being sprayed in and throws off your air/fuel mixture and in WORST CASE SCENARIO keep burning on top of the piston. Overheating the piston, burning exhaust valves and running the risk of detonation.
The end result is always determined by your level of care, maintenance and mileage on the engine. Whether you keep, restrict or delete the system completely is entirely up to you and in some cases the applied state restrictions on emissions and modifications.
I personally stand by the belief that a clean engine is a happy engine. I am willing to sacrifice the tiny mpg loss for lower maintenance and more consistency across the cylinders instead of having to deal with this:
Added bonus is the engine is not being choked into submissive power loss and a will have a much smoother idle.
I wanted to add this for everyone that comes across this post.
The purpose for an EGR valve is a simple emissions system. The problem is it carries more cons than pros-especially the higher the mileage gets.
Its sole purpose is to reroute a programmed amount of inert gasses from the exhaust during start up and throughout the rpm range.
The good:
This partially fills the cylinder with inert gas reducing the amount of air/fuel mixture required in the cylinder to fire.
This reduces the emissions and fuel consumption marginally(average reported is .4mpg).
The bad:
By reducing the air/fuel mixture, it is effectively reducing power. This is further made problematic, by the position of the EGR inlet in correlation to the intake. As they are opposing(vortech 5.7L engine as example), only the front 4 cylinders are receiving the inert gasses and effectively making the power uneven throughout the cylinders causing unequal power distribution and forcing the rear 4 to carry the brunt of the workload. Thus causing undo stress to all rotating assemblies and unnecessary wear.
The system is also prone to plugging and failure, and in doing so can cause unmetered air and/or constantly fluctuating inert gas being injected. Causing possible detonation and idle issues.
With higher mileage or poor tuning, you get a wonderful mixture of carbon, oil and unspent fuel pumped back into your engine. This mixture builds up on the intake, tracts, valves, pistons and tips of injectors. The oil and extra fuel mixes with the atomized fuel being sprayed in and throws off your air/fuel mixture and in WORST CASE SCENARIO keep burning on top of the piston. Overheating the piston, burning exhaust valves and running the risk of detonation.
The end result is always determined by your level of care, maintenance and mileage on the engine. Whether you keep, restrict or delete the system completely is entirely up to you and in some cases the applied state restrictions on emissions and modifications.
I personally stand by the belief that a clean engine is a happy engine. I am willing to sacrifice the tiny mpg loss for lower maintenance and more consistency across the cylinders instead of having to deal with this:
Added bonus is the engine is not being choked into submissive power loss and a will have a much smoother idle.
Back N Black
Full Access Member
I realize i am reviving an old thread with good reason
I wanted to add this for everyone that comes across this post.
I personally stand by the belief that a clean engine is a happy engine. I am willing to sacrifice the tiny mpg loss for lower maintenance and more consistency across the cylinders instead of having to deal with this:
Added bonus is the engine is not being choked into submissive power loss and a will have a much smoother idle.
Very well put! That is exactly what the inside of my intake looked like! Had it not been for pulling the throttle body blade out to cut off the restrictor, I would not have known how horrible it was, and therefore may not have made the effort to clean it. I am definitely buying a block-off plate, and getting mine tuned out now! If I just throw the block off plate on it, and order my tune in a couple months, will it affect performance when the PCM throws the code? Also, will Seafoam through the brake booster hose clean out this kind of crap?
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
i commented on the emissions on your other thread. as far as seafoam is concerned do not use it thru the booster hose. it does a half ass job. the company has a special straw that will do a more complete cleaning job. the pcm will hard code over the egr with a light as well.
Back N Black
Full Access Member
Yep, just found your reply on my other post. I thought pouring Seafoam through the booster hose would be a little lacking in efficiency. I just don't see that it could reach the front runners very well. Does the can with the straw get to all of the intake runners? I have also read about people that dumped a can straight into the crankcase, and the recommendation was to run it for no more than 200 miles, then change the oil. Is changing the oil not necessary after cleaning the intake? I'm assuming not, because I would guess that it all burns up in the combustion cycle, and doesn't reach the crankcase.
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
i personally don't recommend it in a crankcase. gives me that "put to much detergent in the h-e washer" feeling. the long block does not get dirty like the intake. if you did use it go lightly and use non-synthetic oil during that time to ensure a better flush out of dirt. i would honestly stick with good oil with good additives like mobile, chevron and such which do not have seal swelling additives in them. tier 1 on gas like chevron, mobil, 76 qnd such or manually by the bottle with say techron will clean everything anywhere the fuel goes. the intake would want to be cleaned first followed by engine and oil. the straw they have shoots off in four different directions to help get every where. they may have also redesigned it to hook into the tb instead of going straight thru the throttle plate. have not looked lately. the idea is to get any cleaner that goes into the intake somehow atomized into a mist like the fuel system does. you do this and anywhere air is at cleaner goes. pouring into the booster line does no such thing. i think you get the idea. other questions?
edgeofvamp
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Thank you for reading my post.
I will start with saying, seafoam knocks down the build up in the vacuum lines. It works well for that purpose and that's about it. Also it works well to clean the pcv valve. Just soak it for an hour and then blast it with brake cleaner to finish it up(also brake cleaner dries it faster so you can reassemble quickly).
I don't recommend using to much through your intake or booster line, as if the picture is any point of reference. You wouldn't want to use seafoam and break all that loose. I wouldn't want all that dropping further into the runners or building up on valves and cylinders. Just pull the top off the intake and clean it manually, it will be more effective. Especially since the second that build up gets wet it turns into the consistency of roofing tar and just as sticky.
I don't ever use seafoam in my fuel either. I am not sure about LA, but up in the north where i am. The amount of ethanol in the fuel from the pump renders seafoam pointless. Seafoam dries out water from fuel and ethanol serves the same purpose. So; if your pumps say 10% or more ethanol, don't put it in your fuel.
As for dumping it in with your oil, PLEASE DON"T DO THIS. It doesn't have any sufficient lubricating properties. It is like pouring water into the engine and expecting it not to prematurely wear bearings.
If you want to clean your engines internals without putting extra wear or strain on it. Replace one quart of oil with ATF trans fluid, and run it for 500-600 miles. It has great lubricating properties, high detergent levels and is thick enough to push out crap in oil passages without causing to much pressure or becoming to thin to let metal on metal contact.
As far as check engine light, I am not sure if it will turn yours on or not. That is fully dependent on the vehicle, but in the case of my truck. I have not had any performance losses and my truck idles so much smoother now. If you can tune it out go for it, if you get time to do so, strip out the connector and wiring to the EGR valve. It will clean up the engine bay and remove a random electrical plug hanging from the engine area.
If you need an example, my 5.7L vortec engine has 237,000 miles on it as of 3 days ago. It has 42lbs cold start oil pressure and 18-20lbs oil pressure hot dependent on idle speed. I flushed my engine 3 times in a row to thoroughly clean the motor, cooler and lines. After 3,000miles i religiously change my oil and it comes out clean. Yes i switched to synthetic and it is partially a waste to change so early, but i also don't like my oil to break down and lose its ability to do its duty. Between heat cycles and small amounts of fuel mixing. Oil will break down and not be as efficient as it once was.
My compression if anyone is interested, all in the 145-165 range. With a 6lb spread lowest being 149 to highest at 155. Pretty respectable numbers for a 237k motor.
As soon as this one runs off its last leg, i will be dropping in a Vortec motor turned into a 383 Stroker.
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
you do know your vehicle is set for 7500 mile oil changes unless abused right. yeah your engine is aging a bit. would have expected better numbers from its mileage.
