6.2 engine rebuild

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Jwells95

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I have a 2011 Yukon 6.2 and i am looking at rebuilding my engine. It has 200k miles. Would you go ahead and rebuild? Or wait for it to go and then rebuild? Daily driver.
 

Geotrash

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I have a 2011 Yukon 6.2 and i am looking at rebuilding my engine. It has 200k miles. Would you go ahead and rebuild? Or wait for it to go and then rebuild? Daily driver.
Your engine is the L94. It has VVT and AFM. The VVT system is very reliable and durable. However, a small but unknown percentage of those engines will have problems with the AFM system that manifests as a stuck lifter and a loud tick with a misfire. While it won’t likely last more than a few hundred miles that way, it’s unlikely to strand you on the side of the road. You can have the AFM system shut off with a custom tune, and the lifters will likely last many more miles by no longer needing to switch states and behaving like standard non-afm lifters.

Everything else on that engine though is nearly bulletproof - especially on the bottom end. If you’re running premium in it, as you must be if you want it to last, and it’s not leaking or burning any oil, it could easily make another 100K or more.

Long story short, if it were mine, I’d run it until it started talking to me. I have 243K on the L92 in my 2007, and 141K on the L94 in my 2012 with no plans to replace either one.
 

Dustin Jackson

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Yea if you have another vehicle that you can drive if this one goes down keep on driving it until you have a reason to rebuild it.

No sense in rebuilding it now, it could go for another 200k if you take care of it.

Someone wrote that Chevys run like garbage.. but they will keep running like garbage forever and that's what I like about them they don't need to run like a top to last a long time.
 

Marky Dissod

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I have a 2011 Yukon 6.2L (L94) and am looking at rebuilding my 200K mile engine.
Would you go ahead and rebuild? Or wait for it to go and then rebuild? Daily driver.
Maybe you should get a used motor oil analysis, compression and leakdown tests, and any other mechanical tests that would show how well / how badly your engine is aging.
Unless your engine has a problem, go ahead and buy a DOD-delete rebuild kit.
Just wait to install it until your engine shows signs of needing a rebuild.

However, IFF you are leadfooted:
two-mode lifters tend to come apart sooner the more they're exposed to RpMs over 5000.
That alone might change my mind about postponement. Leadfoots should delete DOD stuff at their first convenience.
 

Just Fishing

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if it were me, I would just disable DOD in a tune for now, then run it until you start having issues.
maybe a non dod camshaft and lifters are in the future, but why fix what isn't broken?

Maybe you have $$ burning a hole in your pocket?

I might think about it at like 320k if it were me. :waytogo:
 

swathdiver

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Generally speaking, the 6.2s have cylinder head issues and drop a valve or seat if the motors get hot.

But like everyone else, unless you want it 100% for some special trip or event or a planned availability, keep driving it.

Mine is at almost 200K and we just got back from drag racing it. I send out annual samples of the engine and transmission oil for analysis. When they start showing signs of trouble, I'll plan the repairs/overhaul before it explodes and leaves someone stranded on the side of the road. In my poor medical condition, that could kill me on a hot summer day.
 

Just Fishing

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There is a good point, skip rebuilding the engine and replace every radiator or heater core hose and their little plastic parts including the overflow tank.
at the 190k mark I blew one of the factory heater core lines on a really hot day.
I had replaced every single hose except for that one because it looked brand freaking new.

2 hours on the side of the road, and stressing out because I pinned the engine temp gauge on a brand new engine. :buttkick: :thumbsdown:
The only hose I hadn't replaced yet!!

I still have a brand-new overflow tank waiting for me to care. :ehcapt:
 

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