They are factory headlights. I removed the chrome strip on top and had it paint matched. Then had the headlight lens sanded/cleared.Looking good! Are those non factory headlights? They look good.
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They are factory headlights. I removed the chrome strip on top and had it paint matched. Then had the headlight lens sanded/cleared.Looking good! Are those non factory headlights? They look good.
Interesting. Maybe it’s just the photos but it didn’t look like they had the horizontal LED strip in the middle so I was confused lol.They are factory headlights. I removed the chrome strip on top and had it paint matched. Then had the headlight lens sanded/cleared.
Thanks for the update! Looks goodMan this thing has been a BLAST! I've honestly only floored it from a dead stop 5 times or so since I've had it back, and it makes me grin ear to ear each time. The torque that this 6.6 makes down low is just nuts!
The only real thing I'm looking to do differently is with the exhaust. During the swap, we decided to gut the stock 5.3 cats, as they didn't seem to be handling the new engine very well. Got the patented "rotten eggs" smell during the first drive after swap, so we gutted them which cleared that issue, but the raw fuel smell from the tailpipe is really becoming an aggravation to me.
I do have the cats/downpipes from the 6.6 that I believe I will have welded in this Spring. Likely just going to use the two upstream cats, and then maybe get 3 inch pipe custom ran after the cats to the back. Still unsure on a muffler, but possibly a flowmaster or magnaflow.
In the meantime, I have been doing an "RST conversion". At least that's what I'm calling it. Complete with color matched LTZ grill, black mirror caps, black badges, black D pillars, and RST rims. Also trimmed the lower valance to 3 inches. I will include pics below of the cosmetic mods. Be sure to like, comment, and subscribe to my YouTube channel. It's been VERY cold here, so I've been slow about posting new content lately but I'm looking to get back to it soon! Planning to get some full throttle runs for the next videos I'll be posting!
Youtube link: https://youtube.com/@L8T_BURB?si=4noRWfDzbbK78ckn
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The MPG has suffered, but only a little. We are in cold season here in KY, so there's been a lot of idling and such so it's been tough to get a good true read on MPG. I am estimating it's lost maybe 1.5 MPG in town, but I think I gained that much or more on highway driving. With the added displacement and torque, it hardly grunts at all when pulling hills. Most times doesn't even shift down unless it's a big hill.Thanks for the update! Looks good
How has the mpg been?
Also, can't the fuel tables be leaned out to get rid of the richness? I know all newer stuff runs rich to keeps the cats hot, but I would think that some of that additional fuel could be scaled back. You'll still have the old school smell with no cats, but maybe there's a happy medium?
Good info. I second the install of the other cats. Can the Y pipe be used? I didn't read through the whole thread again, so maybe I missed that. I would assume that using the bigger diameter pipe as much as possible would be beneficial. Those girls like to breatheThe MPG has suffered, but only a little. We are in cold season here in KY, so there's been a lot of idling and such so it's been tough to get a good true read on MPG. I am estimating it's lost maybe 1.5 MPG in town, but I think I gained that much or more on highway driving. With the added displacement and torque, it hardly grunts at all when pulling hills. Most times doesn't even shift down unless it's a big hill.
As for the fuel, I believe it's leaned as much as it can be. Like you referenced, it's more of that "old school smell" that I'm not too big a fan of. I didn't mind it much at first, but during the cold season with idling more, defrost on at stop lights tends to allow some of that smell to creep into the cabin. Also picking up kids from ball practice, I'll have the Suburban idling and when they open the liftgate, it's almost instant that it comes into the cabin, and the kids do fuss about it a little. Therefore I think welding the 2 upstream cats in will likely be my best option.
Make sure you have proof of the actual mileage on the new drivetrain, and what the odometer said once the drivetrain was installed and running. So even though the body has 189k, the drivetrain doesn't. I couldn't even guess what someone would be willing to pay for it. What would a stock comparable vehicle in similar condition go for? I'd go from there, and maybe add another 10k--or a little less. That's just off the top of my head.If, and it is a BIG if....I was to consider selling this thing, any idea on what someone would be willing to pay? It being a highly specific, 1 off type of build, and the mileage, I'm concerned I'd get burned on any sort of good sale price. This thing is a MONSTER since the engine swap.
Highlights as follows...
2015 Suburban, 2WD, 189K miles.
Tan leather interior w/captains chairs
Factory overhead Blu-Ray player
Just 3k miles ago the following repairs were done...
Brand new 6.6 engine transmission (No DOD/AFM)
Brand new 6L90 transmission
New driveshaft
New ball joints, inner and outer tie Rods, new front shocks/struts, new rear shocks
New steering wheel (old one had peeling leather)
New motor mounts
Cosmetic stuff
22 inch RST wheels/tires from a 2022 Suburban w/3k miles
2022 Suburban RST wheels w/3k miles
5% tint on all windows w/5% strip on windshield
All said, engine and transmission cost was $7500, other miscellaneous parts another $1000, and total labor cost for all repairs was $6500. Crazy...I KNOW lol! It's basically a bulletproof Suburban at this point though.
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Every 4.8L, 5.3L. 5.7L, 6.0L, 6.2L, 6.6L, and 7.0L shares extremely similar external dimensions.Keep in mind, this is a 6.6L engine and a 6L90 trans ... neither of which were ever meant to be in this vehicle ...