A Word To The Wise When Doing Spark Plugs

[nick0789]

About a month and a half ago I did a tune up on my '05 Z (hadn't been done in its ~140k life before I bought it, given how much of a PITA the original wires were to get off) and moved the dipstick tube out of the way to get better access to the plugs on the passenger side.
Get it all back together and no problem until I checked the oil level today: barely to the first hole on the dipstick. I go "Mother ****" and crawl up underneath to take a look and there was oil everywhere from the bell housing down to the drain plug. Follow it up and see a red O ring just saying "oh hey what's up?" above the starter. Attached is a picture of said offender through the passenger wheel well.
Apparently while moving the dipstick tube out of the way and back to reinstall after the plug/wire change it decided to pop out of the slot on the engine block.
O ring looked good so I removed the 15mm bolt holding the holder to the engine and pushed it back into place, bending it slightly (I must have straightened it slightly while moving it originally) and got the bolt back in place.
Oil level on the dip stick is now slightly above the third hole, which makes sense since the whole thing got moved down.

Just an FYI to anyone else out there that may suffer the same unfortunate fate of "missing" oil after doing a tune up that it would be a good idea to check the holder first. I have not seen anyone else mention this problem before so maybe I just got unlucky.

 

[Rocket Man]

You're lucky it didn't break off where it enters the block. They have a habit of rusting right there which makes them weak. And don't ask me about trying to get the broken piece out of the block and instead having it fall into the oil pan windage tray where it lays until the thought of it being down there drives you crazy and you have to pull the pan off and retrieve it. Better off never ever bending the dipstick tube. BTW I was installing headers and had to do it but if you don't have to, I definitely wouldn't. It's not necessary to when changing plugs.

 

[nick0789]

You're lucky it didn't break off where it enters the block. They have a habit of rusting right there which makes them weak. And don't ask me about trying to get the broken piece out of the block and instead having it fall into the oil pan windage tray where it lays until the thought of it being down there drives you crazy and you have to pull the pan off and retrieve it. Better off never ever bending the dipstick tube. BTW I was installing headers and had to do it but if you don't have to, I definitely wouldn't. It's not necessary to when changing plugs.

That sounds absolutely terrible and something that would happen on my XJ lol. They don't call Jeeps "just empty every pocket" for nothing.
I only removed the bolt to get better access to the back two plugs. It was near impossible for me to get a tool back there to remove the boot from the #8 plug and moving the tube a couple inches to one side made it accessible in my case.
I agree that the tube is very flimsy, making it prone to breakage, but I did not see any oxidation on mine (thanks to being in the south I guess) so I didn't think twice about it and the slight bending was done about halfway up. But now I am going to be paranoid about it haha.

 

[Rocket Man]

#8 plug is easy if you get an SK 45159 1 1/2" extension and just use it with a ratchet and plug socket. It's just the right length to allow the ratchet to turn plus you get excellent leverage. You'll be amazed how good it works. They're on Ebay for about $10. It works good for a couple of the other tough ones too.

 

[nick0789]

I did something similar to get the plug out (

). My problem was with the boot itself being seized onto the plug and not having any room to pull it off with the tube in the way.

That extension makes the plug change super easy!

 

[Rocket Man]

The SK one works better.

 

[Mechanic421]

I use long needle nose pliers against the manifold to pry off the plug wires.

 

[muncie21]

I just buy new wires, when I change my plugs

 

[nick0789]

I just buy new wires, when I change my plugs

Yea I went with MSD wires in mine. Getting those original, seized boots off the plugs were such a pain especially with those metal heat shields. I needed to get someone with more muscle to break the passenger rear free from the plug. Took a longer pair of vise grips (to prevent slipping) and moving the dipstick tube to finally get it, but it finally gave up the fight. I was surprised the plug didn't crack during this ordeal.
You better believe anti-seize was used during re-assembly.

 

[muncie21]

You better believe anti-seize was used during re-assembly.

Apply dielectric grease to the inside the rubber boot and ceramic portion of the plug will help to prevent the boot from sticking/bonding to the plug. Additionally, the insulating (non-conductive) properties of the grease (when applied in this manner) will minimize the potential for the spark to 'escape' the boot and ground out against the head/exhaust, which reduces the amount of voltage going through the spark plug and igniting the fuel mixture.