AC DELCO OIL FILTER

[Meccanoble]

Just an update. Finally received and installed filter. I wish I took a video before install but I think it corrected my oil pressure if this was ever considered a problem. On first cold start, it jumped to 40 and when warm, idled to around 30-35. On the hardest WOT, it went as high as 50-55 and sits around 30-35 on idle. I could have sworn all of these numbers were slightly lower before the change so maybe it does improve that.

 

[Meccanoble]

Looks like the gauge is back to where it was. Idling at closer to 25-30 now when warm.

 

[Geotrash]

Looks like the gauge is back to where it was. Idling at closer to 25-30 now when warm.

This is one of the reasons I run 5w-40 Euro oil in both of mine. All the benefits of cold weather pumpability of a 5w weight, but adds the protective benefits of a 40 weight oil in the summer heat. I see about a 3-5 psi oil pressure difference between the 5w-30 I used to run and the 5w-40 I now run, on both trucks.

 

[Meccanoble]

This is one of the reasons I run 5w-40 Euro oil in both of mine. All the benefits of cold weather pumpability of a 5w weight, but adds the protective benefits of a 40 weight oil in the summer heat. I see about a 3-5 psi oil pressure difference between the 5w-30 I used to run and the 5w-40 I now run, on both trucks.

Heavier oil has benefited the Toyota crowd with oil burning. Would that be an additional benefit with 5w-40?

 

[Geotrash]

Heavier oil has benefited the Toyota crowd with oil burning. Would that be an additional benefit with 5w-40?

Didn't know that. Fair question though. I'd love to learn more if you have any more info, otherwise I'll see what I can find.

Update: From what I can tell in a few minutes of research, the primary issue is with oil burning in the older model Corollas. They start burning oil and people start using heavier oils like 20w-50 or adding Lucas oil stabilizer (super thick stuff) and that seems to have created other problems. Owners theorize that the root cause of the oil burning is in the PCV system and the rings. Sounds familiar I'm also seeing a smattering of oil burning concerns in other Toyota engines as well, with similar comments about oil weights and root causes. If you know of any other big trends with Toyotas and oil burning due to heavier weight oils, I'll add it to my understanding.

The consensus seems to be that 10w-40 is optimal in those engines. And what I'm starting to think is that 5w-40 is probably optimal in our engines, and I'm also wondering if the 0w-20 that's spec'd in the newer engines for minute gains in fuel economy could be the root cause of some of the engine component failures we're seeing in the newer models. It would be an interesting study to find out.

 

[Meccanoble]

Didn't know that. Fair question though. I'd love to learn more if you have any more info, otherwise I'll see what I can find.

Update: From what I can tell in a few minutes of research, the primary issue is with oil burning in the older model Corollas. They start burning oil and people start using heavier oils like 20w-50 or adding Lucas oil stabilizer (super thick stuff) and that seems to have created other problems. Owners theorize that the root cause of the oil burning is in the PCV system and the rings. Sounds familiar I'm also seeing a smattering of oil burning concerns in other Toyota engines as well, with similar comments about oil weights and root causes. If you know of any other big trends with Toyotas and oil burning due to heavier weight oils, I'll add it to my understanding.

The consensus seems to be that 10w-40 is optimal in those engines. And what I'm starting to think is that 5w-40 is probably optimal in our engines, and I'm also wondering if the 0w-20 that's spec'd in the newer engines for minute gains in fuel economy could be the root cause of some of the engine component failures we're seeing in the newer models. It would be an interesting study to find out.

Yes the Toyota 4 cylinder engines in late 2000's had piston ring issues and the heavier oil just bought them more time between oil change intervals so they didnt have to refill as much inbetween intervals.

 

[tom3]

I'm also wondering if the 0w-20 that's spec'd in the newer engines for minute gains in fuel economy could be the root cause of some of the engine component failures we're seeing in the newer models. It would be an interesting study to find out.

Uh oh. I'd like to get some info on that too before it's too late. High compression on these later engines, some real hot weather here, and the high tech gizmos inside these motors now has me worried anyway.

 

[donjetman]

This is one of the reasons I run 5w-40 Euro oil in both of mine. All the benefits of cold weather pumpability of a 5w weight, but adds the protective benefits of a 40 weight oil in the summer heat. I see about a 3-5 psi oil pressure difference between the 5w-30 I used to run and the 5w-40 I now run, on both trucks.

Dave/Geotrash, your 5w-40 is thicker than the 5w-30 at ALL temperatures, even startup. The people that give oil these #s just for reference, they're otherwise almost meaningless. The low# has almost no meaning. See the charts below and you'll see what I mean. The high # has some meaning.

If thicker oil was better for our engine then why do "experts" agree that most of an engine's wear occurs at startup when the oil thickest? Our engine and oils are not designed to work very well at less than about 212*F. Engine designers and oil designers use that 212F #.

So, is it safe to assume thinner oil on startup is better for the engine? I know from my research that a thinner oil will flow more volume (honey vs water), with less resistance and stress on the engine, than thicker oil.

A straight 30wt oil is thicker at any and all temps less than 212F than its multi-wt cousin (see chart below). Imagine these #s at zero degrees or colder.

cSt viscosity at... 75 F...,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, at 212 F
Straight 30........ 250......................10
10W-30..............100......................10
0W-30................40 ......................10

In the chart below you can see that a 0w-20 oil is thinner at "ALL" temperatures than a 0w-30. And the same can be said between 0w-30 and 0w-40. Dave/Geotrash, the same is true for 5w-30 and 5w-40.

cSt viscosity at. 104F................212F.............at 302F

Straight 30............??.....................10.....................3
0W-20................47 .................8.8................2.5
10W-30..................62 ...................10.....................3
0W-30..................57 ....................10.....................3
5W-30..................59.....................10.....................3
10W-30.................62......................10....................3
0W-40..................85.....................15...................3.75
5W-50...............120...................20..................4

NOTICE where they differ greatly is at a less than normal temp? If it's colder than shown in this chart the viscosity #s get extreme.

cSt viscosity range at 212 F
20w - 5.6 to 9.2
30w - 9.3 - 12.4
40w - 12.5 - 16.2
50w -16.3 - 21.8
60w -21.9 - 26.1

min. viscosity at 302 F...
20, 2.6
30, 2.9
40, 2.9 to 3.7
50, 3.7
60, 3.7

Synthetic oils do cling to parts better because they have higher film strength than mineral oils. Synthetics are thinner overall. They have greater slipperiness. Yet they stick better to engine parts.

My Yuk 6.2L L92 see's both the TX 100+F heat and the cold -20F Colorado mtn winter. I'm currently running 0w-20 and will see what analysis indicates. It's too early to tell yet, but I'm getting 20-25 more miles out of a tank of gas than I use too. But, I changed all the O2 sensors not long after I switched from 5w-30 to 0w20. Maybe thats the improvement?

 

[Thrust]

Just FYI Motorcraft FL-500s will work too.

 

[gooffeyguy]

If thicker oil was better for our engine then why do "experts" agree that most of an engine's wear occurs at startup when the oil thickest?

It's not just because the oil is thickest, but also because most of the oil has drained down away from the parts because the engine is off and pump not running, no pressure in the system. It takes a second or two to get the oil pressure to build and pumped around the important pieces.