Short vs long term fix for low oil pressure on 6.2

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B-train

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The front diff comes out with 4 bolts/nuts and then 12 for the axles. It's so easy to remove ans gain more space it's silly to not remove it. You'll need a jack or extra hands to R&R. It can be done by oneself, but it can be squirrelly and punch you in the face if not balanced right.
 
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WeekenderNutJob

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@weekendernutjob I don't know if this applies to the AWD model but I heard that you can remove the oil pan without dropping the front diff entirely
Yes, I found a video that showed dropping it part of the way but not actually having to pull the entire differential. Still a big job but on my shortlist.
My 2008 6.2L will run a minimum of 20 on the guage at idle. This moves a little depending on temp, but it never goes below that. My 2007 Denali would actually have lifter rattle on a warm restart before I did the oil pickup o-ring and top plate o-rings. That was hot summer temps though, so everything was HOT and thin. I learned as I went and that was the last straw that made me learn, dig, and repair.
No funny noises, just drop down to 5-10 psi on the gauge when idling at a light and warm. No warning lights or messages. I guess dropping the pan to do the pickup o-ring is on my shortlist, and then the top side o-rings in the lifter valley are next if that does not do it....and hopefully, I don't have to do the oil pump...that seems like a PITA. The good thing is a flush at least helped....
 

B-train

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If you are short on time and/or help, I'd go after the cover plate o-rings. It only takes a couple hours ans you don't need a second set of hands to do. There are 8 spots for oil pressure to bleed off from vs 1 potentially cracked o-ring in a cavity. In my experiences, those were the biggest culprit in loss of oil pressure. About $100 in parts and you're back in business
 

Fubar0715

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@weekendernutjob I don't know if this applies to the AWD model but I heard that you can remove the oil pan without dropping the front diff entirely
That was how I did mine - unbolted from the frame and supported with a jack to get some clearance. Was not horrible to get out of the way!
 

Fubar0715

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There is a "test" for the pump O ring issue...
Add 2 extra quarts of oil to the engine and idle it on a downhill grade.. not extreme though.
If you oil pressure is better, than it's prob the oil pump p/u tube O Ring...
But don't keep running the extra oil... that's a big NO NO
At least you'll know ... I don't really know it this is a 100% diagnosis but it's easy;cheap and
worth a shot...
The advice on the lifter valley O rings is also solid... they will puke oil pressure if not
sealing to the valley plate correctly.. It's pretty easy to do as well
I read this too as a way to diagnosis however, since I had a leak already on the gasket and block plate - just made sense to pull the pan and replace the o-ring.
 
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WeekenderNutJob

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If you are short on time and/or help, I'd go after the cover plate o-rings. It only takes a couple hours ans you don't need a second set of hands to do. There are 8 spots for oil pressure to bleed off from vs 1 potentially cracked o-ring in a cavity. In my experiences, those were the biggest culprit in loss of oil pressure. About $100 in parts and you're back in business
Yes, I think I am going to do this first as its quicker and may save me the work on the bottom end.
 

petethepug

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After the pick up tube, change the valley cover gasket and oil pressure sensor because it’s right there. This is my 09 at about 150k clicks.

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