AC - Weird symptoms...??

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2006Tahoe2WD

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How many miles are on the compressor? Maybe time to change it while you are opening up the system to pull vacuum/etc. I don't think they are expensive ~$225. Remember to put the correct oil back in.
 

OR VietVet

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How many miles are on the compressor? Maybe time to change it while you are opening up the system to pull vacuum/etc. I don't think they are expensive ~$225. Remember to put the correct oil back in.
And the correct amount in the system. A lot of compressors are shipped with the correct oil and amount but if you do this, I recommend a new orifice and always a new accumulator and blow out the system while apart. That condenser can get clogged with crud and create problems. After years of a/c work in KC, Mo. and here in Oregon, I learned that just replacing one component in a system that needs all components to work correctly, it can be a nightmare chasing something like this.
 

2006Tahoe2WD

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And the correct amount in the system. A lot of compressors are shipped with the correct oil and amount but if you do this, I recommend a new orifice and always a new accumulator and blow out the system while apart. That condenser can get clogged with crud and create problems. After years of a/c work in KC, Mo. and here in Oregon, I learned that just replacing one component in a system that needs all components to work correctly, it can be a nightmare chasing something like this.
Agree 100%. You want to avoid black death with broken parts being kicked into the system. You may not be happy now however if that happens you will really be not happy.
 

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Agree 100%. You want to avoid black death with broken parts being kicked into the system. You may not be happy now however if that happens you will really be not happy.
Yep, systems that keep you all comfy can be finicky and expensive to fix right. You love them when they work and hate them when they don't. I ran shops and if a rig came in for a/c related problems in the winter, think compressor bearing or clutch problem when kicked on for defrost mode, I would tell them to wait till spring to repair because, God Forbid, they threw all kinds of money at that system in December and then got in an accident in January and totaled the rig, they would not get the a/c benefits they paid for in December. I would just unplug the a/c compressor or remove the belt. I got lots of repeat business that way.
 

2006Tahoe2WD

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Yep, systems that keep you all comfy can be finicky and expensive to fix right. You love them when they work and hate them when they don't. I ran shops and if a rig came in for a/c related problems in the winter, think compressor bearing or clutch problem when kicked on for defrost mode, I would tell them to wait till spring to repair because, God Forbid, they threw all kinds of money at that system in December and then got in an accident in January and totaled the rig, they would not get the a/c benefits they paid for in December. I would just unplug the a/c compressor or remove the belt. I got lots of repeat business that way.
I don't have a climate that often requires defogging in the winter but it happens. I consider it a safety feature to be able to clear the window quickly. AC is one of those things that is super annoying when it doesn't work right. Being comfortable when driving is also a safety consideration. In other words get it fixed right and soon. You are already ahead in the car "game" by having this type/model of vehicle.
 

rockola1971

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50/230psi and both lines warm. Sounds like possible restriction to me. I would take it apart and replace orifice tube, drier, replace both service port schrader valves and do a deep vac and hold test for an hour or so. Clean that condenser from engine side to front. Oh and probably a solvent wash on the whole system.
 
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djfell80

djfell80

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Well...Evac'd, changed orifice tube (not too dirty), changed high pressure switch (was told bad by shop), pulled good vacuum and recharged. Rear AC blew cold. Found front blend actuator ended up failing as well...Put a small set of vice-grips on the blend door to hold in correct position (ordered new actuator, be here on the 11th). Went and drove it. Cooled OK at low speeds. However seemed to blow a little warmer at highway speeds 70-75mph on the toll road. Outside temp around 90-95ish.

***What RPM do you guys recommend to test PSI? Found anywhere between 1500-2500...thanks again!***
 

rockola1971

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Well...Evac'd, changed orifice tube (not too dirty), changed high pressure switch (was told bad by shop), pulled good vacuum and recharged. Rear AC blew cold. Found front blend actuator ended up failing as well...Put a small set of vice-grips on the blend door to hold in correct position (ordered new actuator, be here on the 11th). Went and drove it. Cooled OK at low speeds. However seemed to blow a little warmer at highway speeds 70-75mph on the toll road. Outside temp around 90-95ish.

***What RPM do you guys recommend to test PSI? Found anywhere between 1500-2500...thanks again!***
I test at idle with a/c on max front and rear. You have to give it some time to settle out. The rear has a TXV not a orifice tube so be sure that rear is on and at max to get an accurate reading.
 

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