Perhaps consider a Suburban or Yukon XL. With the 3rd row in place there’s very little storage room in a Tahoe. I think it’s easier to find the hauling and payload limits you’re looking for in an XL but If you go with a Tahoe and the bench seat your family will fit in 2 rows. I guess it all depends on how often you need extra storage and if your young ones can sit next to each other on long rides.
Actual Payloads on 23 and 24 Tahoe with Max TOW package
- Thread starter Beniskickbutt
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iamlegion
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When you say payload is your concern more than towing it might help to elaborate on that a bit so we can help holistically.
From what I read I’m assuming when you’re pulling the camper you’re planning on having the car packed full of people and stuff. You seem to have a good understanding of this stuff so I assume you already know loading the trailer with some of your stuff instead of the vehicle will help payload. Balancing the load in the trailer and having proper hitch height/weight distribution can be just as important as max payload.
Other than that what’s the extra payload weight coming from you are concerned with?
From what I read I’m assuming when you’re pulling the camper you’re planning on having the car packed full of people and stuff. You seem to have a good understanding of this stuff so I assume you already know loading the trailer with some of your stuff instead of the vehicle will help payload. Balancing the load in the trailer and having proper hitch height/weight distribution can be just as important as max payload.
Other than that what’s the extra payload weight coming from you are concerned with?
Beniskickbutt
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I was actually thinking about this now with the storage space. Originally with Tahoe my thought was if i really need more cargo too, I can always flip either the double or single space down in the back. Then I got to thinking about why not just go for more space. My only annoyance there would be now you are really at the length where you stick out of parking spots more.
The reason i'm more concerned about payload stems from the weight that gets added from the tongue weight. I have some trailers in mind that would do well now but IF we hit the point where we decide we really do want a bigger trailer, I want to maximize the odds that we dont also need to go buy a new car as well. I come from a family that tends to keep to keep cars until the car "dies" which is something i also subscribe to.
Theres also just the bonus of having that extra payload means if the kids have cousins in town we can worry less about throwing more bodies in the car. They'll also continue to weigh more as time goes on. My parents also hooked us on camping when we were young but neither were really able to retire (yet). They enjoy coming along on vacations as well to spend time with the kids and also to just get away. I am a little more fortunate financially so I am happy to include them in all of our trips for both the baby sitting aspect and to payback for all they've done.
Overall its just trying to get a better picture of what I can attain so I can set my expectations correctly. The last car I purchased cost $15k so this is a much bigger investment, I like to plan ahead, future me usually ends up being grateful
When you go to the dealer test drive a Tahoe and a Suburban. Drive them how you drive daily. Go to your house, a grocery store, anywhere you’d normally go.
If you have a garage try putting each one in there. Don’t let the salesman cut your drive short.
If you have a garage try putting each one in there. Don’t let the salesman cut your drive short.
Another option to consider is to hold out for one of the unicorn 2016-2018 Suburban 3500 HD's that are finding their way into the used market now from fleets. Most of them are LS-trimmed, but you can occasionally find an LT that's been loved. I found a 2018 LT this year and jumped on it. And the payload and rear axle weight ratings are 2,000+ lbs MORE than a 1500.
Now, the next thing out of some people's mouths will be: "Bbbbuuutttt they only have a 3,000 lb towing capacity." Hogwash. Yes they were designed to be armored and sold to large fleet buyers, but that only means that GM didn't bother to conduct the J2807 towing test on it. It DOES NOT mean that it's not capable of safely towing 10,000+ lbs, because from an engineering standpoint, it ABSOLUTELY is. It has the same frame and drivetrain as the 2014 Suburban 2500, but it has the larger rear axle, brakes and suspension of the 3500 SRW pickups.
Next up: "Bbbbuuutttt what about if you get stopped at a weigh station or have an accident?!?!" RVs do not need to stop at 99% of the weigh stations in North America, and those stations that require it have signs to say so. And if you DO get stopped, the ONLY thing they will care about is whether or not you are within the GAWR front and rear, and payload for the tow vehicle and trailer axles - because that's what the law says, and that's what the placards on both show. They have NO IDEA what the official towing capacity of the truck is, nor do they care. Yes, if you have an accident, the insurance company may try to use the published towing capacity as a reason to deny your claim, but there is nothing in the laws to support that, and any competent attorney would piss all over that argument and win.
Ergo, if you want to haul a bunch of people and gear, and haul a trailer, with modern comforts and conveniences, a Suburban 3500HD is the only safe way I could find to do it.
Nice work! I had no idea about RC scales. ! I’ve traveled from Virginia to Baja in my RV a few different ways and have never seen a weigh station that required me to pull in. Guess I should pay more attention.
The only ones I've seen that require RV's to stop are outside of tunnels. They want RV's to stop to make sure the propane bottles are turned off.
Hmm interesting but makes sense I guess. I wonder if an RV ever explored in a tunnel? I’ll have to do some digging. You’re right though. My travels west have never taken me through a tunnel of any substance.
aJohnM1948
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We have a 2018 Tahoe LS without the max tow, towing a Grand Design 15RB rear bath LOA 20’, between 4,000-5,000 lbs. fully loaded. Tows like a dream, and with the Curt Echo bluetooth brake controller braking is easily configured for both g sensitivity and brake force, touch iPhone display with fingertip to manually engage brakes if desired but never had fishtailing so never was required, more of a security blanket to know that it’s an option. Last summer towing in the Pocono Mountains car would pull mild hills 55 mph in 5th gear at 2,000 RPM, and occasionally on steeper hills drop down one more gear to 4th gear 55 mph 3,000 rpm. No hint of over heating either engine or tranny, both might get a few degrees hotter on the way up but cool down on the way down or on the flat and level. Truck had 118,000 miles on it when we bought it used a year ago. We put maybe 3,000 miles of towing with it in the northeast. I changed ALL the drivetrain fluids the first week we owned it and haven’t had any drivetrain issues. Uncertain how 1st owner used or maintained it. Your concern about a couple of hundred pounds of payload either way is milking mice. In the short term won’t make a difference, in the long term towing is gonna accelerate wear, don’t expect to get 300,000 miles out of her if you do a lot of towing without some major expenditures for tranny, brakes, wheel bearings, and maybe engine. These are cheap GMs, not Mack trucks. As for tongue weight, single axle trailers recommend 10% tongue weight, if you get a bigger dual axle trailer you may be able to use 5% tongue weight. In either case driving at the speed limit when towing is WAY safer than 9 over. You will get tailgated no matter how fast you go, lots of idiots out there. Instead of wasting time worrying about a few hundred pounds either way, worry about wether to stop at McDonald’s or Burger King. Just my $0.02, take it FWIW.
