AFM Delete Double Checking

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Dustin Jackson

Dustin Jackson

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@swathdiver @Geotrash Does a new oil pump come with the pickup O-ring? Also do you think I can reuse my rocker arms? Just got confirmation that my parts from Texas Speed will arrive this week so I am looking to get the rest of my parts ordered.

Also do you have a recommendation on a flywheel stopper? I am havinga hard time spending $40 on the one from summit for 1 time use.
 

TollKeeper

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They should be re-useable. You just have to look at the end cups, and verify condition, and wear patterns.
 

Geotrash

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@swathdiver @Geotrash Does a new oil pump come with the pickup O-ring? Also do you think I can reuse my rocker arms? Just got confirmation that my parts from Texas Speed will arrive this week so I am looking to get the rest of my parts ordered.

Also do you have a recommendation on a flywheel stopper? I am havinga hard time spending $40 on the one from summit for 1 time use.
Yes. Your new oil pump will come with 2 o-rings. Be sure to use the one that the manufacturer specifies for your engine. It's usually the thicker of the two on truck motors.

And yes, you can reuse your rocker arms if they're in good condition.
 

iamdub

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7.397 Actually. Surprisingly, they used the same pushrods with or without AFM/DOD.
I ordered -1- from Autozone, and they gave me a box of 20.. For $5!

Theres a couple "while your in there" parts I would recommend.
Cam Position Sensor
Crank Position Sensor
Oil Pressure Sensor
Coolant Temp Sensor (just to have, the sensor is in a vulnerable location. If you need it, you got it. If not, return it)
Spark Plugs/Wires
Starter (Maybe?)

7.385", actually. :p

The rods are the same cuz the difference in lifter length is accommodated for by the AFM lobes on the cam. This is why those that have done an AFM delete but left the cam in place had low compression on half the cylinders.
 

iamdub

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Hello Guys I am in the process of ordering all the parts I will need in order to complete my AFM delete on my 08 5.3 but I have questions about the oil pump and pressure relief valve situation.

Here is a list of the parts I have ordered so far:
  • LS2 Lifter Trays
  • LS2 Chain Dampener (Recommend Replacement for Chain Tensioner)
  • Timing Cover Gasket
  • Front Crankshaft Seal
  • Water Pump Gaskets
  • Delphi LS7-Style Lifters
  • TSP/GM Head Gaskets
  • ARP Head Bolts
  • L92 Valley Cover
  • GM Crank Bolt
  • Cam 3 bolt conversion sprocket kit
  • L33 camshaft
  • Exhaust gaskets
  • Valve cover gaskets
Parts I am wondering about:
  • Standard flow oil pump
  • Pressure relief plug in oil pan
  • oil pan gasket
Can I get away with using old high-volume oil pump AND not plugging the oil relieve vale in the oil pan?

If your oil pressure is fine as-is, a new direct-replacement pump is all you need. You don't HAVE to plug the relief valve port in the pan, you can just leave the valve in place. It'll act as a secondary pressure relief. I plugged mine and am relying on the one in the pump (M295 that I ported) to handle the relieving duties. It can only do so much and my pressure hits mid-70s near 6K RPM. For normal/mildly spirited driving, it stays within the factory range (35-55) and hovers at 42-44 at highway speeds. So, it's like a "strong" factory range. With the other valve in place, you might max out at around 55ish near your WOT shift point (5,500ish?)

I'm under the impression that the stock pump for the AFM engines IS a high-volume pump. That's why I say to just get a new stock replacement if your current pressures are fine.
 
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iamdub

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TF??? My parts list shows Melling MPR-614 7.397 ??

It could be the way they're measured. The tips where the holes are in the ball ends are chamfered flat. Some measure the actual length as it is, in hand. Some add the length as if that was a full ball. Mechanically, this is accurate since that would be the distance from the seat in the lifter to the seat in the rocker. But, if you were to put a caliper on the rod itself, the shorter number is what you'd get. Tomato/potahto.
 

Just Fishing

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If your oil pressure is fine as-is, a new direct-replacement pump is all you need. You don't HAVE to plug the relief valve port in the pan, you can just leave the valve in place. It'll act as a secondary pressure relief. I plugged mine and am relying on the one in the pump (M295 that I ported) to handle the relieving duties. It can only do so much and my pressure hits mid-70s near 6K RPM. For normal/mildly spirited driving, it stays within the factory range (35-55) and hovers at 42-44 at highway speeds. So, it's like a "strong" factory range. With the other valve in place, you might max out at around 55ish near your WOT shift point (5,500ish?)

I'm under the impression that the stock pump for the AFM engines IS a high-volume pump. That's why I say to just get a new stock replacement if your current pressures are fine.

That makes me feel a little better.
new engine and all, I'm getting 32-35psi hot at idle (500rpm)
It felt a little low to me, but I also have extra oil going to my thrust bearing surface, and those annoying lifters of mine that feature "extra top end oiling" bs.
 

iamdub

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That makes me feel a little better.
new engine and all, I'm getting 32-35psi hot at idle (500rpm)
It felt a little low to me, but I also have extra oil going to my thrust bearing surface, and those annoying lifters of mine that feature "extra top end oiling" bs.

That pressure is perfectly fine for hot idle. Considering the extra "leaks" your system has, I'd say your pressure is technically better than stock.

Mine are a little higher also because I run 10W-40 diesel oil.
 
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Dustin Jackson

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I've been reading through these comments and some of the other AFM delete threads and I think I'm a bit confused on what oil pump to go with, I read some people say to swap my high volume for a standard volume pump. Other things I read is that people didn't plug their oil relief port in their oil pan.

Here is what I have ordered, let me know if I need to change anything up. I have a 2008 chevy 5.3 LMG motor:
- Melling M295 standard volume oil pump
- This summit racing oil relief plug: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/irp-po-m14-kit

Been working on my Tahoe in 100+ degree heat is no fun, I feel a little heat stroke typing this out. Removed the front diff to make way for the oil pan this morning but can't work much past noon these days gets too hot. At this rate it will take another 2 or 3 weekends to get my Tahoe back on the road.
 

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