AFM disabler

[wjburken]

why cant i shut it off then there should be a manual override

I’m pretty sure his is referring to the 6.2’s that didn’t have AFM. The 07’s and 08’s had provision the block for AFM but no VLOM or special lifters do nothing was “tuned out”. The valley covers on my 07 & 08 were just flat plates with orings on the bottom sealing off the oil towers that AFM would use. The 5.3’s all had them on the NNBS series.

 

[BG1988]

I’m pretty sure his is referring to the 6.2’s that didn’t have AFM. The 07’s and 08’s had provision the block for AFM but no VLOM or special lifters do nothing was “tuned out”. The valley covers on my 07 & 08 were just flat plates with orings on the bottom sealing off the oil towers that AFM would use. The 5.3’s all had them on the NNBS series.

what about the 4.8L they did not have afm

 

[wjburken]

what about the 4.8L they did not have afm

Brent, I have no idea on the 4.8’s. To be honest, I forgot they put the 4.8 in some of these.

BTW-Do you still have your Hybrid? I thought I read a post a while back where you were trying to sell it, but I see your signature still shows it.

 

[BG1988]

Brent, I have no idea on the 4.8’s. To be honest, I forgot they put the 4.8 in some of these.

BTW-Do you still have your Hybrid? I thought I read a post a while back where you were trying to sell it, but I see your signature still shows it.

yeah i still go it i'm getting my normal 25.5mpg with AFM but I'm sure I can get 26-27 with V8 but I need to get one of those disablers

I stopped using AFM with the engine cold I wait tell it warms up first to operating temperature it seems to solve the issues
I put m4 to disable the AFM tell it warms up it's a 7MPG difference between SUPER OD with v4/v8 and just v8 only ( M4 )..
91 octane only

91oct nets 7MPG more other wise AFM will end up in a death LOOP with 87 octane... and only get 18.5-19 mpg because it gets stuck using the 4 speed gear set instead of EVT mode..
which is exactly the same as v8 only..
so it's totally worth it to pay the extra 30 cents.. for 7mpg more.. This is only a fully optimized route... between time and MPG other wise the "super efficient route " nets 31.1MPG I might have to switch to this route IF gas prices go higher then 4$ but i do have to get up a 45min earlier as i can keep it in "auto stop" for about 20 miles at 29 mph

you can use m3 or #3 to disable AFM (as far as i know or #5 if you have the 6 speed)



I think with a disabler and V8 mode I can get about 26-28mpg just on the fact i could use the SUPER OVERDRIVE gear she's barely spinning at 2,000RPM at 80mph(technically that is gear #8) that is SUPER OVERDRIVE esp since it would be at about 3800 RPM at 80MPH in traditional 4 speed mode


on sunday I almost totaled it out crazy driver in a dodge ram almost side swiped me
Old blind man in pickup truck tries to KILL ME I Brake check him instead - YouTube

btw i did not actually break check him I let it just turn the brake light on by depressing the gas peddle

 

[PG01]

Wow

 

[Geotrash]

I got the Range device and installed it, seems to work fine.

I am still mulling the AFM Delete (mechanical) though. My engine was, I guess, one of the worst case examples of the oil consumption issue with AFM. It even was an iron block (LMG), with the standard volume oil pump (versus the high volume pump for the alu block models) and still stuck rings that couldn’t be freed with their injector cleaner bath procedure.

I did check and along with the new valve cover, rings and pistons, they did install the pressure valve deflector to eliminate the oil spray sticking rings going forward. It has been about 30K miles since they installed the pistons, rings and deflector and the engine appears to use no oil and runs very strong in general.

In everything I read about the AFM delete, everyone says plug the oil relief valve. I was wondering if it was really necessary to pull the pan and plug that relief valve? If my understanding is correct on how the system works, I can’t see how leaving it in place would have a negative impact on oil pressure after everything else was installed. Am I wrong about that assumption?

Not having to pull the pan would be a bonus from my point of view (no leaks currently).

I received that advice, too, but since I was going with a high volume pump I decided to replace the oil relief valve with a new one. Mine had the shield already in place, so no issue there.

The main advantage of the mechanical delete approach is that is gives you the chance to make some upgrades for power. Just got mine back together this weekend and took it for a ride. Made all of the extra work worth it to me to hear that fat cam lope and feel that seat-of-the-pants power.

 

[wjburken]

Wow

Couldn’t help it.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Only in Cali

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[wsteele]

I received that advice, too, but since I was going with a high volume pump I decided to replace the oil relief valve with a new one. Mine had the shield already in place, so no issue there.

The main advantage of the mechanical delete approach is that is gives you the chance to make some upgrades for power. Just got mine back together this weekend and took it for a ride. Made all of the extra work worth it to me to hear that fat cam lope and feel that seat-of-the-pants power.

My oil pressure has always been really good (might be why it sprayed so much before the deflector was installed and stuck those rings...), and confining things to a dull roar with just the lifters and cam, it may be within my energy level to take on. For me, I think I would just go stock specs on the cam, my hot rodding days are kind of in the rear view mirror, my goal with this stuff would be 100% longevity and tractability.

Do you happen to know what pressure that relief valve opens at?

I think I will call Black Bear and see if after the lifter /cam delete and their tune to shut the AFM off, it will still pass smog here in Idaho. When they do the “emissions test” it has always been a mirror to check that the cats are there and a plug up to the ODB port and that’s it.

 

[Geotrash]

My oil pressure has always been really good (might be why it sprayed so much before the deflector was installed and stuck those rings...), and confining things to a dull roar with just the lifters and cam, it may be within my energy level to take on. For me, I think I would just go stock specs on the cam, my hot rodding days are kind of in the rear view mirror, my goal with this stuff would be 100% longevity and tractability.

Do you happen to know what pressure that relief valve opens at?

I think I will call Black Bear and see if after the lifter /cam delete and their tune to shut the AFM off, it will still pass smog here in Idaho. When they do the “emissions test” it has always been a mirror to check that the cats are there and a plug up to the ODB port and that’s it.

Those were my goals too, and a Stage 1 cam would still serve those goals. What sent me over the edge toward the stage 2 was the videos I found of that cam idling, and the conversation I had with the guy from Brian Tooley on the phone after discussing how I use the truck and my priorities. The stage 2 is beastly, but still has decent daily driver manners and is a set/forget package that should live a long, reliable life. The stage 1 is a little less beastly and has OEM-like manners.

I believe the pressure relief valve opens at 55 psi.