Aftermarket fuel pump failure?

[Matthew Jeschke]

@exp500 excellent suggestion!

Looked up P0230 in FSM. It's basically what I thought it would be, the control circuit for the relay (not power side). If the relay fails the PCM would notice no current flowing through the circuit and trip the code.

I completely tore down this pump. WOW is it a piece of art. VERY well built. Took the armature out of the pump motor. Trying to assess the windings. Find something odd but not sure if it's an issue. Most of the windings are 0.6 Ohms but a couple are just over 1 Ohm.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

This maybe the fault. First anomaly I found. The commutator is very soft which is obviously for design reasons. However, depending on where I touch the commutators and or how hard I press resistance changes by as much as 300%

New video by Matthew Jeschke

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I don't think that's a design feature? Least I couldn't see why it would be unless (1) it's a fail safe although higher resistance is higher heat, which I presume is bad in fuel tank. Or (2) it's a way to slowly fail the pump as brushes wear, pump pressure decreases signaling time to replace pump. Otherwise my DC motor research showed this as being a condition of loose windings where the commutator connects to the winding / inductor wires.

I fiddled with another DC motor I have apart and it didn't behave that way at all when testing commentator and windings.

To credit of pump when I installed brushes (they are spring loaded of course) the commutator resistance was consistent across the motor leads (behaved as expected).

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Don't think it was the fuel pump. Installed new pump and get same pressure reading 52 PSI KOEO.

Pressure regulator squeals?

The pressure regulator also makes a odd squeal if I jumper the pump on with engine off. I have two other pressure regulators. I may swap one of the others in to see if the squeal goes away.

Anybody had troubles with Standard Motor Products? The pressure regulator in the vehicle is one of theirs...

More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS PR217

I will likely return it / swap it as it's loosing pressure.

Pump harness was loose: Removing the old pump I noticed the pump harness wasn't locked on... It slid off which may have been the problem.

Few other observations, the aftermarket pump draws 11 AMPS at 12.4 Volts (AGM battery).

Circuit is pulling 11 amps at 12.4V continuous relay rated for 10A @ 12.0V?

The relay is a factory Omrom 8567. In open air (hood open engine cool) the relay heats up on it's own to over 120F within a minute or two. I'm reading the data sheet for those relays. It's a little cryptic but appears the lowest rating for continuous current is 10 Amps. The pump maybe pushing the relay a bit much!

Datasheet: https://omronfs.omron.com/en_US/ecb/products/pdf/en-g8v.pdf

Going to buy a 30 Amp Micro 280 (mini relay)... I think I'll leave an omron in the port though to see if I can provoke the failure again then switch the relay with the 30 AMP one.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/bosch/bosch-30-amp-4-terminal-relay/bos0/0986ah0115?q=0986AH0115&pos=0

Junction block losses: I had suspected the junction block wouldn't handle the load. However, it seems to be a non issue... On input side it's dropping 0.3V that's all the way to the load side on the relay.