Aluminum / XFE NNBS Front Suspension Rebuild

[petethepug]

Not sure on the ride or if the photo is correct. Maybe check some other sellers pictures or see if a seller can verify hands on for you. Ty for that very important detail that got past me.

 

[randeez]

i think you also need tie rod ends specific to the aluminum knuckles

 

[iamdub]

Not sure on the ride or if the photo is correct. Maybe check some other sellers pictures or see if a seller can verify hands on for you. Ty for that very important detail that got past me.

I was looking at actual part pics in ebay listings. I'm thinking the Monroes are actual photos and they would have a little higher spring rate since they're intended as a conversion from the active stuff. Still, $50 for a pair of new coils is a deal for anyone not looking for as much cushiness as they can get. I'm thinking my older Z55 coils should be a little weaker/softer, having 230K miles on 'em and my firm ride is from the Belltech struts as they're tuned more for sporty handling.

 

[Coolman1987us]

Also the use of "hub" when referring to the knuckle or, as it's more commonly called, the "spindle".

Wouldn't a spindle be the 2wd version? Knuckle has a hole for the cv shaft?

 

[iamdub]

Wouldn't a spindle be the 2wd version? Knuckle has a hole for the cv shaft?

Technically, our trucks don't have spindles. The 2WD and 4WD/AWD models have knuckles with hubs bolted to them.

Your comment would apply to a vehicle such as the S-series and the GMT400 and older trucks. The 2WD had a spindle on the knuckle and the hub/rotor assembly slid onto that. The 4WD had a knuckle with a hole for the CV stub shaft to go through and engage the hub, which was bolted to the knuckle.

 

[petethepug]

One of the generic sets of aluminum lower control arms came with tie rod ends. You may be on to something. There was no description or part numbers. I’ll start digging into this. Ty

i think you also need tie rod ends specific to the aluminum knuckles

 

[petethepug]

@randeez a big thank you. The aluminum knuckles do require different tie rod ends.

Also thanks to Amazon for free overnight shipping, and on a Sunday too. I finally have the Beef on what is needed to covert a full size 07-14 / NNBS / Gen 4 GM SUV to Aluminum Upper & Lower control Arms and Aluminum Knuckles besides the requirement for Aluminum Lower Control Arms:

Do NOT use the Original or aftermarket OEM 07-14 outer tie rod ends Part #’s for the ends when using steel UCA, LCA & Knuckles ...

• GM GENUINE 15254061
• MOOG ES800223
• ACDELCO 45A1092
• or equivalent

Do USE Original or aftermarket OEM 15-19 outer tie rod ends Part #’s for ends when when doing the conversion...

• GM GENUINE 22834082
• MOOG ES800948
• ACDELCO 45A2563 Gold
• or equivalent

I didn't go out and buy a micrometer from China Freight to measure the taper on both tie rod ends. I was able to slide both the (Gen 4) 07-14 & (Gen 5) 15-20 tie rod ends into the new aluminum knuckle assemblies.

The Gen 4 tie rod ends DO NOT FIT and are sloppy in the aluminum knuckles. They have tons of end play when bottomed out and tightened up.

The Gen 5 tie rod ends ARE THE FIT. You can tell that once they're torqued down there'll be no play.

Both of the Gen 4 & 5 tie rod ends thread on to the 07-14 hydraulic steering rack. One of them screws on to the rack with 20 threads remaining and the other has 25 threads left before that tie rod end bottoms out on the OEM rack.


The lower half of the pic has the 07-14 tie rod end with the finer threads.

* The 15-20 / Gen 5 tie rod ends I'll be using have a different slotted nut or Nylock / TTY nut ... M14x2.0x18, 30 inside diameter. It's Part # 11609283. Apparently after Gen 4, GM no longer uses slotted nuts on their racks. Both racks do use a 13/16" (spark plug size) or 21/22mm socket wrench for the slotted nut.

* The 07-14 / Gen 4 tie rod ends use DIFFERENT slotted nut or Nylock / TTY nut - M14x1.5x16

 

[randeez]

some other nuanced differences...
i think the aluminum knuckles are thicker where the caliper mounts, this is why some people have to run a spacer(washer) when doing later year calipers.
the LCA is also thicker where the lower shock mounts - this is mostly a non-issue because the hardware is long enough, but if you get a spacer lift or, in my case, the lower coil over mount sandwiches the lower mount point

 

[petethepug]

I’ll have to break out the calipers from Brembo CTS-V swap and see how they fit on aluminum knucks. I already know I’ve got to shave a hair off the caliper. I’m kinda curious now how the Brembo will spec out on the aluminum. I don’t know of any who’s mounted them on these knuckles yet.

 

[petethepug]

I’ve got two vehicles ahead of mine to have all the aluminum suspension installed and completely resto the front end.

My daughter’s 01 S10 crew cab in in the diesel Indi shop now having it’s 23 year old Orig rear drum brakes changed for the first time in 30k miles

They’re installing a rear disc brake kit, OEM 16 replica rims off a S15 4x2 and new tires. Next the wifey’s 07 Beetle Vert gets a new 6SP slushbox trans @ 125k miles. Lastly the 09 Esky goes in.

The flipping amount of used car major service going on right now is insane.