Funny. Doing this write-up is more work than changing the springs and seals. Here we go.
Head on my bench ready. (I actually already did the first cylinder.)
First I screw down that plate finger tight so it'll move around pretty easily.
Then add the part that presses the valve springs and the bolt. I did some reading and a lot of folks stripped/galled the tension bolt so it's coated with anti seize. You want to wiggle things around so the tension bolt is centered between the valve springs and the plate is centered onto the caps. Then tighten down the mount part.
As I started compressing the first one I realized it was a little tight. I tapped the caps just lightly and the keepers popped loose. Then I finished cranking down the tension nut to get the keepers out. On the first couple I would run the tension bolt well down through the tool then turn the nut on the shaft with my ratchet box. I figured out they gave me a couple extra nuts and a lock washer so I figured out where I wanted it and double nutted the tension tool so I just turned it from the top of the bolt. Did I mention all this goes VERY easily?
Keepers off. Ready to unload the springs and pull those and the seals.
Seals exposed and ready to pop out. If I was worried about slipping and scoring the valve stem I could slide them out at this point since I'm on the bench. Note the tool base is still there.
Seals off and the area wiped down some.
Fel-Pro includes these cute little straws to slip over the valve stem to keep the keeper groove from cutting the new seals. I added a tiny wipe of assembly lube on the top before putting the seals on. With the seals in place and pushed down I found a 15/16" deep well socket was just the ticket for snapping the in place. Just a tap with the heal of my hand did it.
This is the tool I used. It has just enough flexibility to let me easily put the new springs in and center things up so the keepers drop in place.
