Any interest in 4wd front coilovers to replace tbars?

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FreshLikeOprah

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Just to clarify for everyone. 2wd 1500 trucks use a coil spring front. 4wd and SUVs (regardless of 2wd/4wd) use Torsion.

As for engines. Unless you have a 8.1 in the 2500 Suburbans. All GM V8s weight the same in the GMT800 trucks. Unless you have a Silverado/Sierra 4wd with an L33 aluminum 5.3. Weight is 80lb less.

As for SUVs. Tahoes weigh about 5300 for a 2wd. The trucks and SUVs will weight the same in the front. Most of the SUV weight will be in the rear.
 
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Atomic

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This may be a question most will know, but i do not and if i dont know something i ask regardless of how simple it may be. One can always learn, but what is "Preload" I see that a lot searching springs? Could someone simplify that.

Its basically tightening down the spring so it applies force before it starts compressing. Normally as soon as you apply force to a spring it starts compressing at whatever the spring rate is, so if you put 200lb of force on a 100lb/in spring, it will compress 2". Now if you "preload" the spring 1" by tightening the bottom adjusting cap, it is applying 100lb trying to force the shock open. If you apply the same 200lb force to this preloaded spring it will only move down 1" instead of 2".

The forces must balance on the spring otherwise it will compress or expand. When the spring is not preloaded at all there is 0lb up, if its a 100lb/in spring and you preload it 1" there is now 100lb up, etc. When you apply a force down on the spring, lets say 50lb of force, the 0lb preloaded spring will compress 0.5". The 100lb preloaded spring will not compress at all because the net force is still 50lb upward.

The danger in applying a lot of preload is running into a coil bind issue because of overcompressing the spring. You should really never run into this problem because if you have to preload the spring that much you need a stiffer spring.

Hope that helps.
 

saif najd

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Just to point something,

Last weekend I was offroading with my friends (FJ owners) and there FJs are already as you want coil spring sys... what I noticed
Is when3n I am driving fast on sand I have more power dew to having the Tbars!

I am losing less momentum and keeping the nose up! For me this more important than the quality of the ride on road!

And if I may say if we are looking for more flex I would suggest finding a way to convert the rear leaf spring to coil! That would be great!

Sorry bro, I was 100% with you but when it comes to driving on sand its another story..

(I am already losing the front shocks fast with the Tbar! I can only imagine what well happen if I used the Coils!)

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Atomic

Atomic

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I am not sure I understand your comparison...are you saying coil-sprung suspensions arent as good offroad as torsion bars?
 

bottomline2000

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I think he is and I have never seen anyone opt for torsion bars over a coilover setup..trophy truck, sand rail, baha truck. I don't follow the logic. Torsion bars are severly limited and I don't see any benefit over coilovers.

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saif najd

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I think he is and I have never seen anyone opt for torsion bars over a coilover setup..trophy truck, sand rail, baha truck. I don't follow the logic. Torsion bars are severly limited and I don't see any benefit over coilovers.

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I am not sure I understand your comparison...are you saying coil-sprung suspensions arent as good offroad as torsion bars?

I remembered my Ford Ranger 98 it have the same or similar Tbar setup and I remember it was great and took my abuse greatly,

True no rally or rally like truck use is the Tbar setup now! They are using coil but they have long traveling space here it is limited unless we are talking about longer (lower/upper) arms to give good articulation I would say if you added 2 inches level increase it may work great for offroading so the nose well have enough space to dive and go back to normal level without hitting the ground!

And yes if I was planning on a cheap man offroad racing truck (on sand and dirt) I would chose the Tbar setup over coil

This few videos to explain our terrains:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UPW-mYNWMKk&feature=youtube_gdata_player


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3voCi9OH9_Q&feature=youtube_gdata_player

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saif najd

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Again even if the front is "jumpy" I would say the rear would jump highr and may cause you to lose traction or worst losing full control! If the rear was flexible it well reduce the back force (opset direction) and well enjoy better over all driving experience coasting much less time and cash.

The Coils well help those who are seeking the drops more

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saif najd

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Oh, Saudi arabia :)

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livingez_123

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GM's only reason to use torsion bars in the first place was to save some room for their IFS setup. it made it easier for them to get the front axles to the hubs without having a shock and spring in the way. it has worked for 25 (if it isn't broke, don't fix it mentality)
Most people wouldn't even look at GM IFS truck for building a cheap guy sand/mud truck. The parts just don't hold up under a lot of power, just ask the Dmax guys how long there tie rod ends last. 3/4 link solid axle in the front is the best bang for the buck if you want something that will stay together.
BTW, Atomics setup is still a real good idea for the lowered trucks and the ones that that like to stay at the stock ride height. I will end up with a kit this year. Just need to find a good heavy quality shock. Maybe look into a Fox or King and see if they have something that's short enough to work.

---------- Post added at 08:09 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:26 AM ----------

Here is a good spring rate calculator....

http://www.hypercoils.com/spring-rate-calculator/
 

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