Any interest in 4wd front coilovers to replace tbars?

[Atomic]

The IFS actually isnt bad as long as you keep the CVs level. Its when guys crank the hell out of the torsion bars and all the geometry is off that you break things constantly. My truck has around 1100rwhp and ive done dozens of full powered 4wd launches on a drag strip with drag radials and never had a problem with the IFS. Only mod I had as tie rod sleeves and I wasnt convinced those were even needed.

Whats wrong with QA1 shocks? Mine work fine...

 

[saif najd]

GM's only reason to use torsion bars in the first place was to save some room for their IFS setup. it made it easier for them to get the front axles to the hubs without having a shock and spring in the way. it has worked for 25 (if it isn't broke, don't fix it mentality)
Most people wouldn't even look at GM IFS truck for building a cheap guy sand/mud truck. The parts just don't hold up under a lot of power, just ask the Dmax guys how long there tie rod ends last. 3/4 link solid axle in the front is the best bang for the buck if you want something that will stay together.
BTW, Atomics setup is still a real good idea for the lowered trucks and the ones that that like to stay at the stock ride height. I will end up with a kit this year. Just need to find a good heavy quality shock. Maybe look into a Fox or King and see if they have something that's short enough to work.

---------- Post added at 08:09 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:26 AM ----------

Here is a good spring rate calculator....

http://www.hypercoils.com/spring-rate-calculator/

Look, I really didn't expect to face this much of problems with the Tbar! But you addressed alot too, for example:

1- you agreed that Tbars can deliver " reason to use torsion bars in the first place was to save some room for their IFS setup. it made it easier for them to get the front axles to the hubs without having a shock and spring in the way. it has worked for 25 (if it isn't broke, don't fix it mentality)"

2- So where is the problem? You answered

"The parts just don't hold up under a lot of power, just ask the Dmax guys how long there tie rod ends last."

True, I did replaced the ends and every thing else but it hold for a month or so and back to square Zero! My friends know how much effort has been done but again I can't hold it foe example: 2 months ago I replaced the front shocks from stock and used the Monroe sesnatrack now it dead again!! And yes the end are screaming laud!!

3- What we could do?? Your Decision:
"3/4 link solid axle in the front is the best bang for the buck if you want something that will stay together."

Ok, what if someone can't do that? Not possible to find a shop to do such a mod and the needed parts aee not found!?

Thats is the real question, please I am not here to attack I am here to discuss it so I could find a solution just like you

Thanks,,

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---------- Post added at 02:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:50 PM ----------

The IFS actually isnt bad as long as you keep the CVs level. Its when guys crank the hell out of the torsion bars and all the geometry is off that you break things constantly. My truck has around 1100rwhp and ive done dozens of full powered 4wd launches on a drag strip with drag radials and never had a problem with the IFS. Only mod I had as tie rod sleeves and I wasnt convinced those were even needed.

Whats wrong with QA1 shocks? Mine work fine...

Thank you!

Could you please tell me which tie rod sleeves did you use? I think some how you got to part of the solution, I noticed like if I needed something woukd do this jop,,

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[livingez_123]

Whats wrong with QA1 shocks? Mine work fine...

Just looking for other options. I have never tried the QA1's, but it's always nice to have other choices.

 

[digitalfiend]

As for SUVs. Tahoes weigh about 5300 for a 2wd. The trucks and SUVs will weight the same in the front. Most of the SUV weight will be in the rear.

I can confirm that 5300. My 2WD 2004 Tahoe weighs 5307 lbs while carrying me, two empty child seats in the middle row, and some assorted things in the glove box and center console.

As far as the weight distribution, I have no idea, but I want to find out. I'm looking for someone in San Antonio that can weigh each corner of my Tahoe at the same time, then I'll know for sure.

 

[bottomline2000]

Moo

Look, I really didn't expect to face this much of problems with the Tbar! But you addressed alot too, for example:

1- you agreed that Tbars can deliver " reason to use torsion bars in the first place was to save some room for their IFS setup. it made it easier for them to get the front axles to the hubs without having a shock and spring in the way. it has worked for 25 (if it isn't broke, don't fix it mentality)"

2- So where is the problem? You answered

"The parts just don't hold up under a lot of power, just ask the Dmax guys how long there tie rod ends last."

True, I did replaced the ends and every thing else but it hold for a month or so and back to square Zero! My friends know how much effort has been done but again I can't hold it foe example: 2 months ago I replaced the front shocks from stock and used the Monroe sesnatrack now it dead again!! And yes the end are screaming laud!!

3- What we could do?? Your Decision:
"3/4 link solid axle in the front is the best bang for the buck if you want something that will stay together."

Ok, what if someone can't do that? Not possible to find a shop to do such a mod and the needed parts aee not found!?

Thats is the real question, please I am not here to attack I am here to discuss it so I could find a solution just like you

Thanks,,

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2

---------- Post added at 02:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:50 PM ----------



Thank you!

Could you please tell me which tie rod sleeves did you use? I think some how you got to part of the solution, I noticed like if I needed something woukd do this jop,,

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2

I use the same tie rods as Atomic. They are made by FFR. Much stronger than factory tie rods. Not sure how they would hold up on sand but I remember them being used in the sand dunes here in the U.S. They also have heim joints..


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---------- Post added at 05:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:58 PM ----------

I can confirm that 5300. My 2WD 2004 Tahoe weighs 5307 lbs while carrying me, two empty child seats in the middle row, and some assorted things in the glove box and center console.

As far as the weight distribution, I have no idea, but I want to find out. I'm looking for someone in San Antonio that can weigh each corner of my Tahoe at the same time, then I'll know for sure.

Please confirm ur corner weight when u find out.

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[BaMaDuDe87]

Richard is there a place around here that you know of to find corner weight? Wonder what the diff between 2x and 4x would be.

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[saif najd]

Thanks for the FFR info I well try to get one and try it out

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[livingez_123]

This will help good with getting the correct spring rate the first time.

http://www.hypercoils.com/spring-rate-calculator/


Mine comes in between 974, 927, 924. I'm sure if I were to be very precise with the weights it would give me a much closer lbs rate.

 

[Atomic]

Brad, I borrowed a friends corner scale to find mine. With me in it it had about 1475 on the front wheels and 950 over the back. Im about 250, and if you guys are measuring 5300 thats about 1350 per tire, so pretty close.

Keep in mind the shocks are at an angle, so you will need a little more than what that calculator suggests, although it gets you in the ballpark.

I used tie rod sleeves like these for a long time: http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country...d=1388851670&sr=8-10&keywords=tie+rod+sleeves

Never had a problem out of them, but I had to have my truck down for a wheel and ended up doing solid heims just in case. But like I said, I never had a problem out of the sleeves and on a street vehicle, the sleeves on factory tie rods will last much longer. Heims dont like a lot of miles in dusty/dirty enviroments.

The only real requirements for other shocks is the bottom mount needs to be 1/2" diameter for the bolt, which most are i believe. They also need to be 2.5" to fit the spring on there.

 

[livingez_123]

Keep in mind the shocks are at an angle, so you will need a little more than what that calculator suggests, although it gets you in the ballpark.

The spring rate calculator has an input for shock angle. I just put my angle gauge on it and came up with about 70° it was close enough to get a rough estimate. I would pull the tire off and check it at ride height to get the best possible reading. But I was just doing it just to see the ballpark range.
It also has an input for LCA mounting point to center of lower shock mount and LCA mounting point to center of LBJ. And a few other needed measurements and weights.