Any thoughts for water pump upgrade for gen iv 6.2 yukon

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randeez

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how about the head gaskets? if not installed correctly they will restrict the coolant flow through the head

im mostly just throwing out suggestions, no disrespect. the gm ones i use are symmetrical one lays on flat with stamped part number tab up with a "front" stamped in it ,the other bank "front" and all the stampings go face down
 

97audia4

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OP Interested in what radiator you went with?

If you are towing at 1600 rpm that is putting a huge strain/ load on the engine.
 
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kaleburditt

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Fans wont do anything if your overheating while moving, theyre typically not even on if your moving.

I would start with assessing the condition on the stock parts, how many miles on radiator-is the coolant clean dexcool or just some brown slurry, verify thermostat is working, how is the belt routed with the supercharger? Does the water pump not have proper belt wrap to spin under load?
Check the tune also, a 1600rpm cruise shouldnt be stressing anything if there is too much timing in it under that much load itll heat the engine up also

Do some gears if you're only towing, itll help two fold
let us know if the 700w fans help any.
Fans wont do anything if your overheating while moving, theyre typically not even on if your moving.

I would start with assessing the condition on the stock parts, how many miles on radiator-is the coolant clean dexcool or just some brown slurry, verify thermostat is working, how is the belt routed with the supercharger? Does the water pump not have proper belt wrap to spin under load?
Check the tune also, a 1600rpm cruise shouldnt be stressing anything if there is too much timing in it under that much load itll heat the engine up also

Do some gears if you're only towing, itll help two fold

Being a a six speed awd I am gonna wait on the gears.

Timing? I'm hearing too retarded is gonna add heat. So I've been adding several degrees of timing under all conditions. It seems that has helped considerably. Especially since it's a real slow overheat. Like it take 20 minutes to overheat.

Belt wrap is good. Comes in at the twelve oclock and leaves at the two oclock. Ccw. But I'll revisit it again maybe with some emory cloth.
Thermostat was new when I rebuilt it and again with a 160. I'll be going back to a 170 as the 160 is a touch cold for me under normal driving conditions. I did try going without as well. Yes that was a mistake.

I have a higher than normal water ratio. I have one of those bulb testers and I don't really go to below 0 degrees so that's maybe 25 percent. It's very faint in color. Added a bottle of water wetter as well for the corrosive properties.

As for the fans spinning while moving. So yes they do as I can turn them on manually with hptuners. I currently have them at 100 percent at 180 degrees. That is also why I was enquiring about water pumps. Or even a high flow thermostat. The radiator is brand new and bigger than stock and I have a ton o stuff in front of it. So I could be moving a hundred miles an hour and I think between the grill, HX, oil and trans coolers,ac condenser, and power steering cooler I don't think I have much in laminar air flow. I even tried lining up everything as much as possible. I really just think it needs a little helping hand. 40 percent more power in the airflow or 12 percent more water flow should do it.
 
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kaleburditt

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OP Interested in what radiator you went with?

First I went with one from gmpartsgiant.com. they are not OEM! The radiator i received was 1 inch and bent. The OEM is 1 3/16. I sent it back and they charged me a restocking fee! F those guys. Then I went with radiator express. I like the way these guys are set up. Full aluminum, double the size all tig welded with oil and trans cooler. Or should I say warmer.

If you are towing at 1600 rpm that is putting a huge strain/ load on the engine.

Even with tow haul mode on sometimes it just cruises in 6th. I try to keep it in 5th up to 65 or so. In 6th at 70mph it's only maybe 25 percent throttle at 80 kpa. This thing tows like a diesel.
 
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kaleburditt

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how about the head gaskets? if not installed correctly they will restrict the coolant flow through the head

im mostly just throwing out suggestions, no disrespect. the gm ones i use are symmetrical one lays on flat with stamped part number tab up with a "front" stamped in it ,the other bank "front" and all the stampings go face down

No fair question in fact I'm questioning it myself but not direction so much as wrong kind. I went with ls9 head gaskets as they were .054 and not .040. I think those are the numbers at the top if my head. I remember the coolant holes looking kind of small but these are the head gaskets for a 638hp crate motor so..

I tried looking through my photos to double check but I don't see any. Isn't there a tab you can see right above the exhaust?
 

Woodblocker55

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What are you towing what's the weights ? 12,000 GCWR. ?

Sent from my LGL84VL using Tapatalk
 

hagar

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Once you go stroker and supercharged it creates so much more heat energy it becomes hard to keep it under control while loaded.
I have been through it many times on corvettes where even with aftermarket dewitts radiators and engine oil coolers, once under load, you can watch both temps climb until you unload it, then it levels back out.
The best way to help it is to make sure the incoming air through the front is forced into the radiator via shielding. The effect of having all the air funnelled then forced through the rad at highway speeds is greater than any fans you could ever add.
Do you still have all your factory air deflectors installed after doing the stroker? All those little rubber floppy shield in various spots behind the bumper?
If you dont, start there. If you do, grab some plastic sheeting and some snips, and go to town building as sealed of an air funnel as possible into the rad from any front openings you can. Tape all thevl seams and everything.
Its truly amazing how effective funneling all that air is.
 
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kaleburditt

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let us know if the 700w fans help any.
The one in the link was exactly what I had. And I do not have the k5l option so they are the 500 watt motors. The research is scant but it should be 5/5 or 7/9 blades. And the motors are not interchangeable. The 5/7 is what I ordered and they are the wrong ones for anyone who finds this post 2 years from now. I'm bracing for a fight with that ebay guy as he had them posted as k5l fans.
 
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kaleburditt

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What are you towing what's the weights ? 12,000 GCWR. ?

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I've hit the 12 mark towing my humvee so that must be it right? Nope. I started on the quest to fix this for good when it had all these problems when my 1200 lb trailer was empty. That did it for me. Granted it's the shape of a parachute.
 

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