Any Wiring Gurus Here?

[HiHoeSilver]

Although we have wandered far afield...

You're telling me that if I plug in a lamp, with a non-polarized plug, so that the switch is on the neutral leg, the bulb will not last as long? Why? Unless there is leakage (usually to a ground, if it's there at all), nothing will change. It is still an open circuit. Now, if you remove the bulb, stick your finger in the socket, that's another story...

I certainly am. But you are absolutely right. It's not really where the switch is that shortens the bulb life, it's the reverse polarity when the bulb is on. What I should've said is that it's just not good practice to switch neutrals because you're leaving that hot sitting there "looking" for somewhere to go, and a lot of times, that path ends up being a human.

On the other side, I have seen plenty of electronics and appliances toasted from losing a neutral.

 

[Cattivo]

I've been a union electrician for over 20 years and have NEVER seen or herd of placing a neutral wire on a switch in AC lol In DC you're basically dealing with a hot and ground

 

[dbbd1]

You're telling me that if I plug in a lamp, with a non-polarized plug, so that the switch is on the neutral leg, the bulb will not last as long?

I have never seen a neutral switch leg either, unless the above situation happens.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

I've been a union electrician for over 20 years and have NEVER seen or herd of placing a neutral wire on a switch in AC lol In DC you're basically dealing with a hot and ground

Used to happen all the time. This is why neutrals were fused back in the day. Like a farmers 3 way where the polarity is constantly switching.

 

[Z71Jack]

Thanks guys! Lots of good info here

 

[Shunto]

A few questions for you:

1) When you wire auxillary fogs, light bars, etc have you typically connected them to the battery, fuse box, or tap them into the existing wiring? I see that most of the Rigid Industries lights are designed to be connected directly to the battery.

2) Is there an access point in the firewall that you have used to run wiring from the engine compartment into the cabin? I found one on the driver-side firewall but it will probably require removing the instrument cluster---which I want to avoid. I'm hoping that there is another access point that won't require dismantling the dashboard.

3) Can the existing OEM fog light wiring harness handle a slightly more powerful SAE replacement kit?

I dont know what Rigid's you picked up but congrats! They're great lights.. pricey yes but i think you get what you paid for. Now that's out of the way..
To Make this short, sweet and straight to the point...


When i wired mine I ran to the battery. Use the Harness that came with the kit. Don't "tap" into anything. I also found an ignition 12v source so that when i turn on the ignition my lighted switch lights up. The bit about going through the FW... I made a nice sized hole because i know that i was going to installing all kinds of extra lights and stuff.. Oh If you have the room... use a chassis punch. if may take extra time.. but this way you get a nice clean hole and none of that Hole saw business. Here is a neat source for switches..
http://www.otrattw.net/home.php