anyone do E-fans on a obs??

[Monstar_est87]

Very nice... Im gonna have to go the cheap relay route since I plan on running just the low speed... I would like to run a temperature sensor but I dont want 2 run in2 any problems with that again... That hayden 3647 controller brunt out twice... Not the amps or fuses but the controller itself... just dont trust those things anymore...

 

[gpracer1]

Very nice... Im gonna have to go the cheap relay route since I plan on running just the low speed... I would like to run a temperature sensor but I dont want 2 run in2 any problems with that again... That hayden 3647 controller brunt out twice... Not the amps or fuses but the controller itself... just dont trust those things anymore...

Mine worked for 8 years in the Phx heat with the 2 fans constantly on, ever since I remote mounted the relays as described before.

 

[ezdaar]

Very nice... Im gonna have to go the cheap relay route since I plan on running just the low speed... I would like to run a temperature sensor but I dont want 2 run in2 any problems with that again... That hayden 3647 controller brunt out twice... Not the amps or fuses but the controller itself... just dont trust those things anymore...

Aye that controller is shit, I posted that on here many times..
I used this one on both my S-10's, camero and bronco 2.
The SAME ONE for over 12 years. I ran it on the ground side of my control relay, which was a standard issue 40amp relay from orileys.
My brother and 2 friends use the identical thermal switch on their vehicals wired in the same way, Noone has had any problems with it..

You have 3 choices,, buy harnes and pin it to ECU.
Buy that thermal switch and wire it correctly.
or buy the sensors like dude a cpl posts up and screw them into the a unused port on head or waterneck...

GL dude....

 

[Monstar_est87]

Mine worked for 8 years in the Phx heat with the 2 fans constantly on, ever since I remote mounted the relays as described before.

Is ur fan setup running off of ur 411 now..?

Aye that controller is shit, I posted that on here many times..
I used this one on both my S-10's, camero and bronco 2.
The SAME ONE for over 12 years. I ran it on the ground side of my control relay, which was a standard issue 40amp relay from orileys.
My brother and 2 friends use the identical thermal switch on their vehicals wired in the same way, Noone has had any problems with it..

You have 3 choices,, buy harnes and pin it to ECU.
Buy that thermal switch and wire it correctly.
or buy the sensors like dude a cpl posts up and screw them into the a unused port on head or waterneck...

GL dude....

Wat fan are u running with that temp sensor..? My problem is that the mark8 fan uses alot of amps upon start up (50 amps or so) so need sumthing that could handle that kinda power...

 

[ezdaar]

Bud, the sensor doesn't ever see the amp load from the fan, the relay does..
IF its wired correctly.
that sensor was on the ground side (trigger) of my relay.
My fan only pulled 28amps so I used a 40 amp relay.

Due to your high draw on your fan, this is what I reccomend.
70 Amp Relay From Dakota Digital

With that termal switch and that 70 amp relay, wired correctly, you will not have any problems.

would be cool to toss in a small .5 farad capacitor in the mix to ease the load on the relay, but right off hand I cant set it up in my head...

 

[sparg93]

Bud, the sensor doesn't ever see the amp load from the fan, the relay does..
IF its wired correctly.
that sensor was on the ground side (trigger) of my relay.
My fan only pulled 28amps so I used a 40 amp relay.

Due to your high draw on your fan, this is what I reccomend.
70 Amp Relay From Dakota Digital

With that termal switch and that 70 amp relay, wired correctly, you will not have any problems.

+1 - I'm currently running 60amp relays protected by a 50amp fuse. Remember, the fuse should be lower then the relay...relays are more expensive to fix if they blow...and I have a Mark VIII

would be cool to toss in a small .5 farad capacitor in the mix to ease the load on the relay, but right off hand I cant set it up in my head...

One step at a time!!!

 

[AtomicHoe094]

these flexalites dont even pull that much from the battery/alternator load. Im sure a cap would be pretty overload. If anything throw in a bigger alt and call it a day. Flexalites are throwing the air out of the cowl part of my hood. pretty crazy

 

[sparg93]

+1 - getting a cap adds one more point of failure and there's really no need for one....remember, this fan came out of a car made in the '90s, and they used a stock electrical system.

however, if you like science experiments with your rig (i personally do) go for it...but you can spend the money on better things. plus, when you sell your rig, if you have to explain why a cap is wired into your relay, the new owner will

 

[AtomicHoe094]

...but you can spend the money on better things

like a bigger alternator and a BIG 3 upgrade actually i like the big 4 upgrade.

power to alternator/power to starter
ground to block
ground to frame

also power to the aux/fuse box. this will help if you run other additional items off the aux towers.

 

[sparg93]

also power to the aux/fuse box. this will help if you run other additional items off the aux towers.

I've been contemplating this...what is the OEM gauge? When i looked at it, i was guessing 4ga.

I was thinking of replacing it with one of my high end (knu conceptz) 4ga leftovers from my stereo build. Running 1ga to it would be extreme overkill...

I'm not great in electronics, but i've heard adding wires too large can cause resistance, which would be detrimental. Any ideas?