Matthew Jeschke
Full Access Member
I think High Mileage is just a branding gimmick, perhaps different additive package - more soft metal stuff in them? For my daily driver I buy the cheaper oil. Most all oils are pretty good now days (unless you're in Mexico. Lots of the oil jugs in Mexico don't have API cert HERE). I tore down my 5.3L with 230k miles on it and couldn't even see any wear on the main bearings. Makes me believe all these oil types are a bunch of hubbub aside from conventional versus synthetic. I don't think they sold High Mileage oil back in 90's when my father got too lazy to change oil and delegated me to do my first oil changes... Correct me if I'm wrong anybody.
As far as oil. I had the lifter tick too in my old engine. Did also the Berryman flush and fixed it. Long story short... My opinion... Use a good quality synthetic and quality filter. Then call it a day.
My routine (Built a 6.0L with $700 lifters / Johnson 2116LSR). Factory lifters are prone to oil varnish, don't like poor quality oil, in these trucks. If they tick isn't end of world, but to avoid that / protect my new lifters... I would use (1) high quality synthetic and (2) I'm currently testing K&N oil filter... WIX is good enough but I see K&N gives me a little extra capacity.
Lastly, I don't think this is your question but I scratch my head when ppl want to buy cheap oil. Think about it... What is $50 on an oil change when you only need to do it every several thousand miles at most? We're talking cents a mile here. Be leery of marketing - high mileage additive package gimmicks. It's likely just that, fancy marketing. Also, I don't really believe in extended life oil either. Again oil changes are CENTS a mile. I change at 5,000 miles or once it looks dirty.
Also, I don't have one but hope to add it... The oil cooler on a truck is worth it. It will keep your oil performing better for longer. Oil breaks down when it gets hot. I could be wrong but believe much of why oil needs changed is because of heat more than anything.
As far as oil. I had the lifter tick too in my old engine. Did also the Berryman flush and fixed it. Long story short... My opinion... Use a good quality synthetic and quality filter. Then call it a day.
My routine (Built a 6.0L with $700 lifters / Johnson 2116LSR). Factory lifters are prone to oil varnish, don't like poor quality oil, in these trucks. If they tick isn't end of world, but to avoid that / protect my new lifters... I would use (1) high quality synthetic and (2) I'm currently testing K&N oil filter... WIX is good enough but I see K&N gives me a little extra capacity.
Lastly, I don't think this is your question but I scratch my head when ppl want to buy cheap oil. Think about it... What is $50 on an oil change when you only need to do it every several thousand miles at most? We're talking cents a mile here. Be leery of marketing - high mileage additive package gimmicks. It's likely just that, fancy marketing. Also, I don't really believe in extended life oil either. Again oil changes are CENTS a mile. I change at 5,000 miles or once it looks dirty.
Also, I don't have one but hope to add it... The oil cooler on a truck is worth it. It will keep your oil performing better for longer. Oil breaks down when it gets hot. I could be wrong but believe much of why oil needs changed is because of heat more than anything.
So In total I got $80 rebate from Mobil on $192 worth of oil that I only paid $50 on 
