Anyone try to program modules lately?

[j91z28d1]

that's why I got it. anything to avoid the dealer and price was about even.

I saw somewhere they the acdelco site is picky about the internet connection too. so if you don't have strong wifi and a ton of ram in the computer you're using, it's not happy.

even then it's pretty common for it to fail a few times before working.

 

[Doubeleive]

No luck yet. Following the video previously posted, I can get to the point where I can select what kind of module I want to program, but when it tries to connect to the vehicle and get data from the module, I get the error E4399: There was an error retrieving the controller data!

Which, when I google, could be pretty much anything.

My Tech2 alone currently can see data from the Passenger switch (command up and down, etc). It can not communicate with the driver's switch. That's expected, it's a new unit and that's why I'm doing this.

Techline Connect cannot read data from either module. I tested to program/get data for the passenger switch because it was the safest one I felt like trying. The Tech2 does it's little wiggly line like it's trying to communicate, I can hear something clicking in the dash when it connects/disconnects like always, but then the error pops up.

What's so frustrating is it could be so many things.

Is it my laptop? The Tripplite USB-to-Serial adapter? Is it because my clone Tech2 is garbage? Is it because they can see it's a clone and they're blocking it? Is it something simple like my voltage dropping too low?

I've tried reinstalling the software, getting the Tripplite drivers from their website, running techline in compatibility mode, as admin, not as admin, etc.

Anyway. I'm done for today. I've got the truck on a charger to top off everything and I'll give it a shot again tomorrow. If I can't figure it out tomorrow, I'm just calling the dealer for an appt.

I have not looked myself with the tech2 and door switches, but you might poke around in there and see if there is any special functions to "learn" the switch to the vin, etc or anything remotely similar and see if that does anything.
I doubt that your issue is related to the serial adapter otherwise it wouldn't have connected period.
and i always see the lower rj45 connector being used even though the ports are not marked

 

[TrybalRage]

OK - I've made some progress. Partially I think a hardware issue and a giant part is because I am a moron.

So I decided to try a different computer, I read some other posts about making sure you have the minimum hardware covered and admittedly my Surface 7 does not meet that. So I drug an old gaming tower down to the garage and hooked it all up.

Install the Techline software fresh. New driver for the Tripp USB connector. Make connection to the truck... communication failure. Damn. Try the passenger module as a test... CONNECTED. I actually get to the point where I could attempt to program. Ok.. ok... we're seeing something different here.

Go back to the driver's side. Failure to connect. Ok what the heck.

Jump back on the Tech2. I can still ping the passenger but not the driver. So now I'm starting to wonder if I've got some kind of wiring issue, maybe the harness at the door hinge is damaged or something. I pulled back the rubber insulator, start poking around in the truck to see where it goes - pop the switch module out of the door, start trying to do some continuity tests on the wires... and I look down into the door... and what's down there? A loose connector. Just... laying there. Not plugged into the module.
I didn't notice because not all the spots are used on mine. It fell down into the door when I put the panel back on. Grrrrrrr.

Tech2 CAN NOW SEE THE MODULE. Hooray! And it shows that Vin is not currently programmed. Ok, ok.

Back on Techline connect, it can connect to the module. I can choose the programming options. I go to actually program..... aaaaaand it fails. E4491 Reprogramming Error! Check all Connections and reset Programming Interface!

Jesus wept.

I spent over an hour from that point trying to get it to program the module, but I finally just got too cold and came back inside.

Oh, but before I did the door closed while jumping in and out of the vehicle and partially cut the ribbon connector between the Tech2 and the Tripp adapter. So I had to dig up an old network cable.

Just a comedy of errors, I tell ya.

Edit: On one try, I did get an E4492 error - I don't recall the exact verbiage but it said something related to "cyber security"... hope that's not a clone issue.

 

[Doubeleive]

OK - I've made some progress. Partially I think a hardware issue and a giant part is because I am a moron.

So I decided to try a different computer, I read some other posts about making sure you have the minimum hardware covered and admittedly my Surface 7 does not meet that. So I drug an old gaming tower down to the garage and hooked it all up.

Install the Techline software fresh. New driver for the Tripp USB connector. Make connection to the truck... communication failure. Damn. Try the passenger module as a test... CONNECTED. I actually get to the point where I could attempt to program. Ok.. ok... we're seeing something different here.

Go back to the driver's side. Failure to connect. Ok what the heck.

Jump back on the Tech2. I can still ping the passenger but not the driver. So now I'm starting to wonder if I've got some kind of wiring issue, maybe the harness at the door hinge is damaged or something. I pulled back the rubber insulator, start poking around in the truck to see where it goes - pop the switch module out of the door, start trying to do some continuity tests on the wires... and I look down into the door... and what's down there? A loose connector. Just... laying there. Not plugged into the module.
I didn't notice because not all the spots are used on mine. It fell down into the door when I put the panel back on. Grrrrrrr.

Tech2 CAN NOW SEE THE MODULE. Hooray! And it shows that Vin is not currently programmed. Ok, ok.

Back on Techline connect, it can connect to the module. I can choose the programming options. I go to actually program..... aaaaaand it fails. E4491 Reprogramming Error! Check all Connections and reset Programming Interface!

Jesus wept.

I spent over an hour from that point trying to get it to program the module, but I finally just got too cold and came back inside.

Oh, but before I did the door closed while jumping in and out of the vehicle and partially cut the ribbon connector between the Tech2 and the Tripp adapter. So I had to dig up an old network cable.

Just a comedy of errors, I tell ya.

Edit: On one try, I did get an E4492 error - I don't recall the exact verbiage but it said something related to "cyber security"... hope that's not a clone issue.

do you have a aftermarket radio installed? if so unplug it or anything else not oem on the vehicle

• E4491/E4423 – Programming Failed.

This error can be hard to diagnose, because it means that the application can communicate with the module but the it is unable to write all or part of the calibration due to an incompatibility. The most common cause of this is an aftermarket item being wired into the communication bus.

*Salvage and poor quality reman modules also trip this error, because the application can have trouble overwriting the data in the module, especially in GM Global vehicles.

*Make sure the vehicle did not loose voltage.

*Make sure your interface is connected properly. Do not use a wireless interface for programming.

*Check for any aftermarket accessories install on the vehicle.

*If you have a quality module and have confirmed everything is fine with the vehicle, you will need to contact GM techline with the line codes that show in the error dialog box.

 

[TrybalRage]

Yes, I do have an aftermarket radio but I've had the fuse pulled for it through this entire process since I've read about that issue before. I was hoping that would be enough, do you think it actually needs to be physically removed/unplugged? I suppose that's easy enough to try once I'm ready to go freeze again.

The module is new, ordered from GM Parts Direct.

I don't have one of those expensive voltage maintainers they suggest but I do put a trickle charger on it in between attempts to make sure the battery is always topped off between tries. So that is another potential failure point.

 

[Doubeleive]

when I do programming I make sure the battery is on a charger, the device mdi/tech2 is powered via home 12v dc adapter. on the trech2 this port is on the bottom of the main tech2, not on the cable. and that the computer also powered to house power.
then I also make sure I do not touch/wiggle/disturb it or any cables/connections in any manner what so ever.

 

[Doubeleive]

Yes, I do have an aftermarket radio but I've had the fuse pulled for it through this entire process since I've read about that issue before. I was hoping that would be enough, do you think it actually needs to be physically removed/unplugged? I suppose that's easy enough to try once I'm ready to go freeze again.

The module is new, ordered from GM Parts Direct.

I don't have one of those expensive voltage maintainers they suggest but I do put a trickle charger on it in between attempts to make sure the battery is always topped off between tries. So that is another potential failure point.

pulling the fuse should work but I guess it could maybe be a issue simply being plugged in.

 

[TrybalRage]

I've been powering the tech2 on a house line, but plugged into the cable where it meets the Candi module, not the tech2 itself. I'll try that too.

 

[j91z28d1]

I had a standard battery charger on mine when I updated tranny programming on mine. standard charger isn't the cleanest DC power but I figgred it was better than the battery dying. mine has a lot of current draw with just the key forward. like 15-20 amps just on acc. I don't believe the normal trucks are that bad thou.

but a standard charger worked for me.

 

[mikez71]

The one time I put a shumacher charger on before programming, the voltage crept up to 16V. May have been trying to desulfate or whatever it is they do.
Plus I worry about extra electronics causing noise, so I also unplug my voltage display/USB adapter before programming.
I bought a battery tender in case my voltage is too low.. HPTuners programming the ECM/TCM only takes about 45 seconds a piece..
So long as my voltage is 12.3V or so, I figure I should be OK with two batteries.

FWIW, my clone Tech2 can't power the candi module without the cig adapter plugged in... (Or maybe Candi module can't power the Tech2?)
Great work! Keep us posted! And what are the minimum requirements for SPS programming?