Doug118
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Constant from the back of the factory alt. Switched from the steering column. Ground from a stud underneath the center console
Audio, side view cameras, 2nd Battery, Big 3
- Thread starter Chrismnj
- Start date
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Constant from the back of the factory alt. Switched from the steering column. Ground from a stud underneath the center console
OK, so I'm about to do a Big 3 and a second battery to run my stereo from. I've read numerous posts, and done all the research, and I still have a couple of questions. For the Big 3, I'm kind of targeting @kbuskill , as he has the fuse box on the wall setup like mine (07). I'm also targeting @Chrismnj , as your thread is awesome and one of the most detailed to date related to doing these things.
Forgive my ignorance on these questions. I am mechanically inclined, but I do not understand the electrical principals, other than that things need to be grounded. I haven't done much in the way of electrical work in a car, other than replacing a battery cable terminal. However, I follow directions really well!
So, first Question, which seems sort of answered in a picture @kbuskill posted earlier. To confirm, I change the wire from the Alternator to the fuse, and from the fuse to the battery. I do NOT change the wire from the fuse to the distribution box. Is this correct?
Second question. For the second battery, I have a 200 amp Stinger isolator as per another thread. Do I run a wire directly from the alternator to the isolator, then to a fuse, then to the second battery? Or, should I simply run a wire to the second battery from the existing fuse on the firewall where the first battery is?
Third question. Assuming a direct wire to the 2nd battery from the Alternator. I'm guessing that each battery needs a fuse, correct? This being the case, does the second battery need a 175 amp fuse, or a 200 amp fuse? Or does the isolator also act as a fuse, making another inline fuse redundant?
Fourth question. The 4th wire of the "Big 4" is a ground from the back of the alternator to the firewall, as per the video referenced earlier in this thread. Given that the alternator is actually mounted to the engine ground, isn't that redundant?
Oh, and 5th question. Which fuse in the distribution box would you suggest I use as the isolator trigger?
Thanks in advance to any and all who respond!
Forgive my ignorance on these questions. I am mechanically inclined, but I do not understand the electrical principals, other than that things need to be grounded. I haven't done much in the way of electrical work in a car, other than replacing a battery cable terminal. However, I follow directions really well!
So, first Question, which seems sort of answered in a picture @kbuskill posted earlier. To confirm, I change the wire from the Alternator to the fuse, and from the fuse to the battery. I do NOT change the wire from the fuse to the distribution box. Is this correct?
Second question. For the second battery, I have a 200 amp Stinger isolator as per another thread. Do I run a wire directly from the alternator to the isolator, then to a fuse, then to the second battery? Or, should I simply run a wire to the second battery from the existing fuse on the firewall where the first battery is?
Third question. Assuming a direct wire to the 2nd battery from the Alternator. I'm guessing that each battery needs a fuse, correct? This being the case, does the second battery need a 175 amp fuse, or a 200 amp fuse? Or does the isolator also act as a fuse, making another inline fuse redundant?
Fourth question. The 4th wire of the "Big 4" is a ground from the back of the alternator to the firewall, as per the video referenced earlier in this thread. Given that the alternator is actually mounted to the engine ground, isn't that redundant?
Oh, and 5th question. Which fuse in the distribution box would you suggest I use as the isolator trigger?
Thanks in advance to any and all who respond!
OK, so I'm about to do a Big 3 and a second battery to run my stereo from. I've read numerous posts, and done all the research, and I still have a couple of questions. For the Big 3, I'm kind of targeting @kbuskill , as he has the fuse box on the wall setup like mine (07). I'm also targeting @Chrismnj , as your thread is awesome and one of the most detailed to date related to doing these things.
Forgive my ignorance on these questions. I am mechanically inclined, but I do not understand the electrical principals, other than that things need to be grounded. I haven't done much in the way of electrical work in a car, other than replacing a battery cable terminal. However, I follow directions really well!
So, first Question, which seems sort of answered in a picture @kbuskill posted earlier. To confirm, I change the wire from the Alternator to the fuse, and from the fuse to the battery. I do NOT change the wire from the fuse to the distribution box. Is this correct?
Second question. For the second battery, I have a 200 amp Stinger isolator as per another thread. Do I run a wire directly from the alternator to the isolator, then to a fuse, then to the second battery? Or, should I simply run a wire to the second battery from the existing fuse on the firewall where the first battery is?
Third question. Assuming a direct wire to the 2nd battery from the Alternator. I'm guessing that each battery needs a fuse, correct? This being the case, does the second battery need a 175 amp fuse, or a 200 amp fuse? Or does the isolator also act as a fuse, making another inline fuse redundant?
Fourth question. The 4th wire of the "Big 4" is a ground from the back of the alternator to the firewall, as per the video referenced earlier in this thread. Given that the alternator is actually mounted to the engine ground, isn't that redundant?
Oh, and 5th question. Which fuse in the distribution box would you suggest I use as the isolator trigger?
Thanks in advance to any and all who respond!
As far a big3 goes you can make it as big as you want even a big 6 as there is never enough of ground. At very minimum you need
1.power wire form alternator to the battery if you want you can do the one going to fuse box as well I didn't do it.
2.ground to the engine from your battery there is also a clamp on that ground wire that need to go back on it, It would be used by the ECM to control alternator output - and that is one of the reasons why I went with my split charge, doesn't interfere with existing truck electrical system.
3.ground from the engine to chassis/frame
After that you may branch out ground to more places. Keep the fuse at 175 amp and yes each battery needs a fuse and as close to them as possible. Most car fires start with overheating wire. When it comes to a second battery I would strongly recommend going with the national luna dual battery kit you can read more about them on their web site, or download installation manual it explains very well different and difference in each system available. Believe I have post a video on here of another guy installation very helpful. Also gives you option to jump start yourself, no need of the same batteries which allows you to have a starting battery and true deep cycle. I can't help you with Stinger isolator as I am not familiar with this product sorry. BTW nice truck you have there!
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On 3, is there an existing location on the frame / chassis, other than the firewall? I've seen people drilling / tapping into the frame itself, which doesn't strike me as a good thing to do. Thanks for your response!
I will take some more pic of where I connected them.
Edit.
Still missing one to the frame, I will add this when I pull the engine out, not that you need to pull the engine to add one but while doing some work to engine will do the wire than, also ground you second battery too. Make sure to put heat wrap tubing at the end of each wire to protect exposed wire from the element also clean metal surface where you grounding with send paper after you can paint over with color or clear.
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Ouch! I don't know that the discretionary funds will afford 2 good batteries and that...
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@kbuskill , how did you get the wire out of the RVC sensor? Did you have to cut the end off the original, and slide it out? It doesn't look like it "opens". And so I would have to also slide the new wire through before crimping / soldering on the end, correct?
