Audio System Upgrade Thread 04 Tahoe
- Thread starter 04whitetahoe
- Start date
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OP
OP
Haven't touched it lately, but will soon!!
Hey Chuck, Thanks for that tip. After reading your input, I looked at my instruction sheet and really didn't find anything about programming. I searched online and found the full instruction sheet. I had an old revision and didn't have the 2nd page that explains the procedure. I haven't yanked my head unit yet to do it, but I know how now!
Thanks!
Hey Mike,
I still haven't finished with my wires, but I'll get photos up when I do. I'm definitely going to shorten them and re-route power to them. I wanted to keep power away from RCA and speaker wire, but when wiring everything to the amps, it's tough to keep them separated. I've seen the amp stands that are built up so the wires are underneath, But I wanted to keep mine as low as possible so when I fold down my seats, they're not crunching the amps.
Joe
Hey Chuck, Thanks for that tip. After reading your input, I looked at my instruction sheet and really didn't find anything about programming. I searched online and found the full instruction sheet. I had an old revision and didn't have the 2nd page that explains the procedure. I haven't yanked my head unit yet to do it, but I know how now!
Thanks!
Hey Mike,
I still haven't finished with my wires, but I'll get photos up when I do. I'm definitely going to shorten them and re-route power to them. I wanted to keep power away from RCA and speaker wire, but when wiring everything to the amps, it's tough to keep them separated. I've seen the amp stands that are built up so the wires are underneath, But I wanted to keep mine as low as possible so when I fold down my seats, they're not crunching the amps.
Joe
Doverpoint
Member
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2011
- Posts
- 73
- Reaction score
- 0
I have the same battery going on 5 months now. Excellent battery!
the headache i may attempt to start tomorrow smh but still have no idea for where to place the amps mines wont fit like urs there bigger and i have 3-4 long body z71 but i want it as neat as urs..how did u run the door speakers to rear from oem amplifier back or new wire?
OP
OP
New wires from amps to doors
They should be good batteries. Hasn't let me down yet!! I like the dual post too.
Hey There,
Maybe Shawn will chime in as to where you might install your amps!!
I ran all new speaker wire from my amps to the doors.
Look at the blue wire. I removed the seats and lifted the carpet and ran underneath to all of the doors. Remove all of your molding and door panels to run the wire:
This photo is the passenger side rear door, notice I made the run along the stock wiring on the side and when routing to the amps, separated from the RCA and power runs to decrease the potential for cross interference:
This view is the drivers side rear door going forward, notice the blue wires going forward to the rear and front doors:
Thanks,
I still have some clean up work to do, but I have tunes, so I've not been in too big of a hurry!!
They should be good batteries. Hasn't let me down yet!! I like the dual post too.
Hey There,
Maybe Shawn will chime in as to where you might install your amps!!
I ran all new speaker wire from my amps to the doors.
Look at the blue wire. I removed the seats and lifted the carpet and ran underneath to all of the doors. Remove all of your molding and door panels to run the wire:
This photo is the passenger side rear door, notice I made the run along the stock wiring on the side and when routing to the amps, separated from the RCA and power runs to decrease the potential for cross interference:
This view is the drivers side rear door going forward, notice the blue wires going forward to the rear and front doors:
Thanks,
I still have some clean up work to do, but I have tunes, so I've not been in too big of a hurry!!
Hey Joe,
Looking great man. In for final pics! But once you have sound, it's hard to finally finish it all.
Hell mines going on 2 years lol. But I have sound!
1sickz71- do you have bucket seats or bench? Also what amp do you have? And you have a burban right?
Looking great man. In for final pics! But once you have sound, it's hard to finally finish it all.
Hell mines going on 2 years lol. But I have sound!
1sickz71- do you have bucket seats or bench? Also what amp do you have? And you have a burban right?
Front Street
Member
Excellent work on the layout and wiring Joe!
i am finishing up my install of Boston Acoustics components and an Alpine PDX amp for all 4 corners. I too purchased them over time. I am also running a Pioneer HU AVH-P8400BH along with Second Skin dampening. So, it was really cool following your build since we used similar stuff. Anyways, I have some random questions for ya,
1. Do you have to unscrew the "hooks" in the cargo area floor all the way to get the carpet out? Mine have rubber sealant and I can't get them unscrewed all the way, just a little bit.
2. What do you recommend for cutting the Second Skin dampening? You had all those strips in the low spots and was wondering if a utility blade did the job or what else you might have used.
3. How are the KnuKoncepts Terminals holding up? Would you have rather gone with a D-block for all the connections?
4. Did you find any source for tan carpet to recover your sub-box? I also have tan carpet so if you found a place it will help.
5. Thanks for posting the build thread! Despite all my questions I learned a lot from your post and I thought I was pretty decent at car audio. This old dog learned some new tricks, so thanks again!
Gelly
noob/troller
i am finishing up my install of Boston Acoustics components and an Alpine PDX amp for all 4 corners. I too purchased them over time. I am also running a Pioneer HU AVH-P8400BH along with Second Skin dampening. So, it was really cool following your build since we used similar stuff. Anyways, I have some random questions for ya,
1. Do you have to unscrew the "hooks" in the cargo area floor all the way to get the carpet out? Mine have rubber sealant and I can't get them unscrewed all the way, just a little bit.
2. What do you recommend for cutting the Second Skin dampening? You had all those strips in the low spots and was wondering if a utility blade did the job or what else you might have used.
3. How are the KnuKoncepts Terminals holding up? Would you have rather gone with a D-block for all the connections?
4. Did you find any source for tan carpet to recover your sub-box? I also have tan carpet so if you found a place it will help.
5. Thanks for posting the build thread! Despite all my questions I learned a lot from your post and I thought I was pretty decent at car audio. This old dog learned some new tricks, so thanks again!
Gelly
noob/troller
OP
OP
Suggestions
Hey Gelly,
Thanks for the compliment and here's my suggestions:
_____________________________________________________________
1. Do you have to unscrew the "hooks" in the cargo area floor all the way to get the carpet out? Mine have rubber sealant and I can't get them unscrewed all the way, just a little bit.
To get your carpet out, you do have to take those D-mounts off. They just come out - keep unscrewing the bolts and then pull the D-mount until the silicone comes loose. Mine were siliconed in too, it just took some pulling to get it them to free up and come off.
This question reminds me that I didn't silicone them back, I suppose I should do so!
____________________________________________________________
2. What do you recommend for cutting the Second Skin dampening? You had all those strips in the low spots and was wondering if a utility blade did the job or what else you might have used.
I used a good straight edge (an aluminum level), sharp utility knife (changing blades occasionally) and cut on a piece of plywood. I recommend wearing gloves to protect your hands.
I found it helpful to mark out several lines on my cutting board of various widths (like 3", 5", Etc) I used so I wouldn't have to measure and mark the dampener every cut.
I used a clamp one of the sides of my level to my cutting board when I made my cuts, this made it easier to keep it in place when making the utility knife cut. Take several passes with the utility knife, rather than pushing really hard for one pass. It makes it easier and safer when cutting and you for sure cut all the way through. Once you have the shapes of one of your doors, you can copy them for the other. I recommend cutting all the material first, then applying it all. It's more efficient than cut, apply, cut apply.
Cutting the material:
For Speaker front door:
Material ready to apply:
Do a test fit before you peel the backing:
Rear Door:
One more hint on the Damplifier - if you get some tiles that look like this:
Take a large kitchen rolling pin to it and that flattens it out quite a bit to make it more usable.
I used simple green cleaner on the sheet metal, then just plain water and let dry thoroughly. To apply the material, rollers are good, but I found that using a tennis ball and a "wooden spoon" from the kitchen works very well to apply. In tight places, the handle of the spoon works well too. You want to make sure you press on all areas of the dampening material so you get a good bond. Have all three tools on hand so you'll have everything you need handy.
When you place the material, start at one edge and work it down with the tennis ball so you don't get air bubbles. If you do get a bubble (common), simply make a cut in the middle of it and work the air out with the ball/roller/spoon.
___________________________________________________________
3. How are the KnuKoncepts Terminals holding up? Would you have rather gone with a D-block for all the connections?
I like the KNU connections/materials everywhere but my battery terminals. I found the way the terminals clamp to the posts is easily stripped due to the small allen screw they used for tightening. They are good looking, but the way they clamp onto the battery posts is not great. I would look for a different terminal if that's the connection you are referring to.
____________________________________________________________
4. Did you find any source for tan carpet to recover your sub-box? I also have tan carpet so if you found a place it will help.
Mine is grey! My sub box is also grey, so I'm set!
You might try this place to a carpet source. If they don't sell individual pieces, maybe they can give you a referral:
http://www.auto-interior.com/chevy26.htm#TAHOE
Hey Gelly,
Thanks for the compliment and here's my suggestions:
_____________________________________________________________
1. Do you have to unscrew the "hooks" in the cargo area floor all the way to get the carpet out? Mine have rubber sealant and I can't get them unscrewed all the way, just a little bit.
To get your carpet out, you do have to take those D-mounts off. They just come out - keep unscrewing the bolts and then pull the D-mount until the silicone comes loose. Mine were siliconed in too, it just took some pulling to get it them to free up and come off.
This question reminds me that I didn't silicone them back, I suppose I should do so!
____________________________________________________________
2. What do you recommend for cutting the Second Skin dampening? You had all those strips in the low spots and was wondering if a utility blade did the job or what else you might have used.
I used a good straight edge (an aluminum level), sharp utility knife (changing blades occasionally) and cut on a piece of plywood. I recommend wearing gloves to protect your hands.
I found it helpful to mark out several lines on my cutting board of various widths (like 3", 5", Etc) I used so I wouldn't have to measure and mark the dampener every cut.
I used a clamp one of the sides of my level to my cutting board when I made my cuts, this made it easier to keep it in place when making the utility knife cut. Take several passes with the utility knife, rather than pushing really hard for one pass. It makes it easier and safer when cutting and you for sure cut all the way through. Once you have the shapes of one of your doors, you can copy them for the other. I recommend cutting all the material first, then applying it all. It's more efficient than cut, apply, cut apply.
Cutting the material:
For Speaker front door:
Material ready to apply:
Do a test fit before you peel the backing:
Rear Door:
One more hint on the Damplifier - if you get some tiles that look like this:
Take a large kitchen rolling pin to it and that flattens it out quite a bit to make it more usable.
I used simple green cleaner on the sheet metal, then just plain water and let dry thoroughly. To apply the material, rollers are good, but I found that using a tennis ball and a "wooden spoon" from the kitchen works very well to apply. In tight places, the handle of the spoon works well too. You want to make sure you press on all areas of the dampening material so you get a good bond. Have all three tools on hand so you'll have everything you need handy.
When you place the material, start at one edge and work it down with the tennis ball so you don't get air bubbles. If you do get a bubble (common), simply make a cut in the middle of it and work the air out with the ball/roller/spoon.
___________________________________________________________
3. How are the KnuKoncepts Terminals holding up? Would you have rather gone with a D-block for all the connections?
I like the KNU connections/materials everywhere but my battery terminals. I found the way the terminals clamp to the posts is easily stripped due to the small allen screw they used for tightening. They are good looking, but the way they clamp onto the battery posts is not great. I would look for a different terminal if that's the connection you are referring to.
____________________________________________________________
4. Did you find any source for tan carpet to recover your sub-box? I also have tan carpet so if you found a place it will help.
Mine is grey! My sub box is also grey, so I'm set!
You might try this place to a carpet source. If they don't sell individual pieces, maybe they can give you a referral:
http://www.auto-interior.com/chevy26.htm#TAHOE
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