Auto Ride options

[Writefast]

How vital is a functional Auto Ride to normal hwy and street handling? The Yuke’s auto is shot. Both bladders are worn through. I’m assuming the compressor is shot. She rides curves like a boat. Not uncontrollable, but super squishy. I’ve read several threads saying don’t worry about it but should I be? I don’t tow yet but I will be in the next year or so. I’ll also be off-roading without towing within the next two years or so. Thoughts? Experience? Options?

 

[George B]

In my opinion a set of reman auto-ride shocks from Arnott and a new compressor either from Arnott or Dorman would make a world of difference.

I would keep that auto ride.

 

[wjburken]

Just to be clear, air shocks and compressor are part of the Auto Level system. Auto Ride is a separate system that involves both front and rear shocks. I think both Auto Ride and Auto Level are worth maintaining and would suggest doing as @George B suggests and replacing the rear shocks and compressor. As he said, Arnott shocks and a Dorman or Arnott compressor will likely make a world of difference. How many miles on your front shocks? They play a big role in your vehicle stability as well as part of Auto Ride.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

^^^^^x2^^^^^

 

[Dustin Jackson]

If you are talking about the Auto Ride system, that should be addressed by either fixing it or replacing it with standard style shocks and springs.

If the Auto Ride system is not working you basically have a completely broken suspension, going either route in fixing it will make a world of difference at this point

 

[Big Mama]

Take it from me and @Joseph Garcia. We’ve both had rigs with passive systems installed. It’s awful. I just finished putting Arnott 2708 on the rear. I had Arnott 2715 which is passive. When you go passive auto leveling still works but adjusting to road input does not. It’s tempting to go the cheaper route but it won’t handle the way you want. Same goes for the front. I did save a few bucks by getting just the struts for the front and reusing my springs. Good luck.

 

[petethepug]

My 2¢ … it’s integrated into the ABS & Stabilatrac systems. It’s a 3T SUV. If some idiot on their cell phone taps your bumper at speed causing you to go sideways, do you really want your safety systems to modulate your wheel speed, yaw, pitch angle and steering sensor compiled / providing with data from household lighting resistors or valves modulating active shocks communicating that one corner of the truck seems to be 100% airborne and compensating for it?

 

[Doubeleive]

How vital is a functional Auto Ride to normal hwy and street handling? The Yuke’s auto is shot. Both bladders are worn through. I’m assuming the compressor is shot. She rides curves like a boat. Not uncontrollable, but super squishy. I’ve read several threads saying don’t worry about it but should I be? I don’t tow yet but I will be in the next year or so. I’ll also be off-roading without towing within the next two years or so. Thoughts? Experience? Options?

2X arnott as2708 $232.99 each ($50 refundable core each) = 565.98 -100 core =465.98
1x Dorman pump 949099 $216.00
total upfront cost 781.98 + tax & shipping == ? say roughly $941.98
minus core return later +$100 =$841.98 (and there is a 5% discount code for rockauto so = $800)
I would also recomend getting gm genuine air compressor line 88987900 $30
the reason is because the driver side arnott air line connector is relocated therefore it fits very tight and you need a piece of that gm air line kit to extend the air line a little bit so you will not rip the line out should the shock fail. the dorman air line kit does not dissasemble like the gm one does.
a couple hours of work and you are back in business
it's not hard to do at all a couple jacks and a couple larger sized wrenches/sockets and you can do it all alone in your driveway
all parts are on rockauto