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it was a change after they were having issues, but you guys use whatever you want
OK, I'll look around for the info, thanks a lot. What exactly did you replace in yours?
That's what I'm afraid of... I've dumped so much money into suspension refreshing that I guess it's time to turn to the drivetrain.
My AWD front diff has the same problems. Somewhere along the way the diff vent tube fell off the plastic fender well. Dangling upside down, breathing water, salt, sand for what looks like a few years. Here is what I found during winter when I was looking for a mysterious leak on the garage floor. It was the pinion seal puking fluid, which lead me to this..
View attachment 184509
The vehicle was serviced by the dealer during this time. They never noticed greasing, changing the oil, changing all fluids. Too late now the damage is done. The drain bolt has the same metal as yours, fluid looked like this...
View attachment 184510
After 5 Mobil 1 75w90 drain and fills over 2 years, its alive. Not leaking. The drained oil is clearer, but still get the metal buildup on the bolt like yours, still get silver in the gear oil. Something is toast, the end is near. I do a lot of DIY, but rebuilding diffs require skills I don't have. Setting the preload, backlash, etc. are not something I want to learn on this truck. I've been researching, there are a few that rebuild my 3.73 front diff on eBay and sell for +-$1,000. From what you mentioned in your post, you seem capable to shotgun the diff and be done with it. I do think the front diffs in our GM AWDs are a weak spot, and should see yearly maintenance. I just changed the rear diff fluid which is also 75w90 syn, and at 155k the fluid was "good". No silver fluid, hardly anything on the magnet.
I was like you (06 Escalate) the first time I almost paid $1200 bucks to rebuilt my diff but after if failed the second time (18 months later) I was like hell no, not another $1300. The weak link on these diffs (GM 8.25 IFS) is the adjuster lock tabs, they are know for breaking off creating creating play on the internal parts. To avoid this from future failures is to rebuild your self and center punch the adjuster threads after the backlash is set. These diffs are not hard to rebuild if you have patience, I rebuilt mine for $200 and that included buying some of the specialty tools I didn't have. It was a great learning experience and would do it again if I had to.
How much time did it take? How long would i be without the truck which is a DD? OP, not trying to hijack your thread, I think this applies to you also.I was like you (06 Escalate) the first time I almost paid $1200 bucks to rebuilt my diff but after if failed the second time (18 months later) I was like hell no, not another $1300. The weak link on these diffs (GM 8.25 IFS) is the adjuster lock tabs, they are know for breaking off creating creating play on the internal parts. To avoid this from future failures is to rebuild your self and center punch the adjuster threads after the backlash is set. These diffs are not hard to rebuild if you have patience, I rebuilt mine for $200 and that included buying some of the specialty tools I didn't have. It was a great learning experience and would do it again if I had to.
How much time did it take? How long would i be without the truck which is a DD? OP, not trying to hijack your thread, I think this applies to you also.
once i had all parts on hand, mine took 4 days to rebuild. but im on 12's at work. so that was pull diff day 1. day 2 explode diff then clean and inspect all parts, day 3 install new parts and assemble diff, day 4 install and test drive. took me 4 days but only getting to work on it for an hour or two a night.
should be a single day job for any decent shop