Battery Acts Dead but tests Good

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swathdiver

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I'm also having an issue with the driver's side blend door for the a/c, its only allowing hot air through and the passenger's side heated seat doesn't work anymore.

Once you're sure this electrical problem is out of the way, the other two issues are not too expensive if you do it yourself. The best tool you can own Jason is a Tech2 when working on these trucks. The Tech2 may allow the door to reset or you can use the tool to force it back into position if the motor is still working. At the least, it will tell you which one is not working and why it failed. Many times, issues with heated seats are fixed with a soldering iron and don't cost any $$, just time.
 
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Silent D

Silent D

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Once you're sure this electrical problem is out of the way, the other two issues are not too expensive if you do it yourself. The best tool you can own Jason is a Tech2 when working on these trucks. The Tech2 may allow the door to reset or you can use the tool to force it back into position if the motor is still working. At the least, it will tell you which one is not working and why it failed. Many times, issues with heated seats are fixed with a soldering iron and don't cost any $$, just time.

The blend door works intermittently. The heated seat stopped working when the sun roof was left open over night and it rained. Both front seats got wet, the drivers side starting working again but the passenger side hasn't in the last year. I'm not sure what part to replace for they yet though.
 
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Silent D

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Removing the terminals from the battery to clean them probably broke up some the corrosion inside the cables to allow better transfer of current but my guess is it will return to its previous state.

For your sake I hope I am wrong but there have been WAY to many of these trucks with the same issue and it is the cables 99% of the time.

I hope so too but if not I'll replace the cable. It's not too expensive or difficult. Thanks for the heads up.
 
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Silent D

Silent D

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This is the left rear fender. Is this even worth try to get repaired? I've never messed with rust before. D46B4AE0-8245-4E48-BDC5-499506D03A65.jpeg
 

aspendale

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This happened to me on an 08 Yukon. Most likely, it's your negative battery cable. Order a new OEM cable and replace it. I did quite a bit of forum research on the issue before biting the bullet on those cables, but that definitely solved my problem. In the process, I discovered various comments regarding "bad crimp" on the cable and/or "rotting from inside out." In my case, I discovered that the GM plant happened to pinch my cable in a body mount between the body & frame. I moved forward with replacing all OEM positive and negative cables, in addition to installing a second battery in the OEM second tray, using OEM auxiliary battery cables. No issues since!
 

mizzouguy

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^^^ I agree that new cables would fix the issue. You could try a big 3 but unless you are good with making custom cables it's gonna be easier for you to just get oem assemblies. The fact that you can "wiggle" the cables and it makes a difference either tells me they are loose on the battery posts and not getting good connection or have corrosion internally in the wire. I can see copper next to the terminals on your wires and any exposed copper is not good in the long term.
 

Agent WD-40

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I had a similar issue with my 12 Yukon (battery tested OK but was older). Replacing the battery seemed to solve my issue but I wonder if it was actually a cable issue described here and my moving the cables around for the install seemed to fix it.
 

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