Battery question 07 yukon Xl

[bulldog896]

I just purchased an 07 Yukon XL and from what I am reading these have no battery life with the OEM battery. I've had the truck less than 2 weeks and in the time have had to have it jumped twice because I listened to the radio with the engine off.

From what I have read I shouldn't expect to get more than a hour off the radio with the engine off right? I am thinking of going to either an Interstate or Yellow top. I know the consensus here seems to be yellow tops. Will the yellow top give me more off engine run time?

Also I was thinking of putting the OEM battery in the second battery spot. Any reason not to do this? Also what do I need to wire it in this position?

 

[stevek]

You could always do something like boats have with the 4 mode battery selection switches...

Battery A, B, A&B, or off

 

[InTruckDesign]

I know alot of people that have issues with the stock battery...I got my '07 Tahoe in June of '06 and am still on the stock battery, guess I got a good one.

 

[zach2011]

Yellowtop will give you a lot of engine-off time. Even a Red Top will. As for the 2nd battery, I think GM has a kit that totals around $400 or $500...something like that.

 

[Zed 71]

I just purchased an 07 Yukon XL and from what I am reading these have no battery life with the OEM battery. I've had the truck less than 2 weeks and in the time have had to have it jumped twice because I listened to the radio with the engine off.

Make sure the truck has had the technical service bulletin for this issue before you replace the battery.

 

[Harry Seaward]

Make sure the truck has had the technical service bulletin for this issue before you replace the battery.

#07033 is the service bulletin. The OEM battery is crap IMO. What really kills them as well as any flooded cell battery is the run down problem. Once you totally discharge a starting battery a few times, you drastically shorten its operational life. A 34/78 Yellow Top has a reserve capacity of 120 minutes, compared to a typical Interstate flooded cell which has an RC of 75-100 minutes. What you do get with a Yellow Top is a more constant voltage during discharge cycles. A flooded cell's voltage will drop off as the battery discharges. The Yellow Top will also take many more discharge cycles than a traditional flooded cell, and will continue to accept a higher percentage of the original full capacity than a flooded cell starting battey will. The Yellow Top is not without its own problems though. They like to be charged in a specific manner and can be damaged if not done so.

Another thing to remember. If you're in your Tahoe with the engine off, and listening to the radio, the entire electrical system, minus ingnition and HVAC is "on" and active. The current demand is significant.


If you're interested in doing an auxilliary battery setup, I did a dual battery project about a year ago. I placed it here: http://www.chevroletforum.com/forum/...ad.php?t=22289 Basically, it uses a Hellroaring battery isolator, and a Yellow Top battery. I got all of the wiring, and fuse holders at my local stereo shop. You don't need to use the GM kit. Total cost including the battery was about $425.00.

Note:The Hellroaring Isolator is perhaps the best solid state isolator available. It has essentially no forward voltage drop that's experienced in a diode isolator.

Here's the Bill of Materials:
Bill of Materials:
1 Hellroaring BIC-95150 Battery Isolator (includes misc. hardware)
1 Optima Yellow Top Battery
20' of 8 gauge hook-up wire
10 BIG ring lugs
bunch of black zip ties
enough corrugated wire loom to get around the engine bay
2 large, car stereo style fuse holders
2 60A fuses