Battery Tender tripping Viper Alarm

[MarkD51]

This has been an ongoing issue that could never seem to be cured.

Happened with both my older Clifford-Avital Concept 20 Alarm, as well as a brand new Viper 5701 2-way Alarm/Remote Start which is about 2-1/2 years old. (All components and wiring of the Clifford Alarm were totally removed prior to the new Viper Alarm installation)

I've tried 3 Deltran Battery Tenders, and also a new Pulsetech maintainer which I currently use. No joy with none of them.

The Alarm will trip 35-45 seconds after arming usually, and didn't seem to matter none how I connect the Battery Tender, either ground to - battery terminal, or to a chassis ground. (engine block)

Thus, the only way I can maintain a battery without tripping the alarm, is placing the alarm in valet mode. (Which of course renders the alarm as useless)

Neither Deltran, or Viper had any answers. This sort of sucks that it seems nobody else ever had such issues, that this is some unusual occurrence-issue only I have experienced?

I suspect something perhaps like AC Ripple, or some inherit design with the Alarm that it is being "fooled" that variance of voltages in the system are being seen as a theft?
Mark

 

[SunlitComet]

perhaps the alarms read a trigger as a voltage change like a door light operating or are effecting a shock/perimeter sensor in the way the sensor functions.

 

[MarkD51]

perhaps the alarms read a trigger as a voltage change like a door light operating or are effecting a shock/perimeter sensor in the way the sensor functions.

Hello Sunlit C,
Well, you did hit the nail on the head, sorry this was omitted from my first post, because it appears that it is indeed the shock-knock sensor.

When the alarm is triggered on these new alarms, it does give a clue as to what area triggered the alarm, and according to the number of flashes seen at the windshield valet switch and light, it is showing it's the knock sensor.

This was known not long after installation, it was initially set quite sensitive, and was also being tripped due to low flying airplanes at times. De-sensitizing it though had no effect on the battery maintainer issue though.

In fact after I wrote my first post here, I again decided to take a trip to the business that installed the alarm.

The owner said that one possible option to rectify this issue would be to install a small easily accessible toggle switch between the brain box, and this sensor, thus disabling it when I use the Battery Maintainer. Yes, I'd lose this feature during such, but at least I would not then be in Valet Mode, and the Doors-Hood-Rear Hatch would remain armed.

In the process, I might also have them install a Digital "shaker", as I'm having new custom wheels-tires mounted soon. Cost for the shaker will be $80 installed, and he'll install this toggle switch for free.
Would be sweet if this simple switch will work.
Mark

 

[SunlitComet]

digital shaker? you mean a tilt sensor. strange things happen. i have a glass breakage sensor that gets tripped by a nissan trucks fuel pump running if it is parked right next to mine because of the sound frequency it admits.

 

[MarkD51]

digital shaker? you mean a tilt sensor. strange things happen. i have a glass breakage sensor that gets tripped by a nissan trucks fuel pump running if it is parked right next to mine because of the sound frequency it admits.

Yes SLC, I meant Tilt Sensor, sorry. You were maybe thinking I had a new way of making Martinis while on the road?

A couple of thoughts occurred, that the toggle switch "might not" solve the issue, so I don't wish to place this switch in an obvious in front of my face place, like on the dash, just in case it proves ineffective.

Two, the other thought, I might solve the issue, then putting in the Tilt Sensor, I'll have that gizmo add on tripping the Alarm? I suppose anything's possible?

This Viper Alarm installation already does have one small toggle switch at the left side dash fuse-box. This is to defeat the remote start to further disable it, if by chance the vehicle is in some shop being worked on, and the Hood Switch doesn't work. (or myself working on it of course)

There is one other add on I could have, but don't need that right now, GPS, where via Cell Phone-Ipod, I can monitor the truck's status, the alarm, all functions, and know where it's at from anywhere in the world.

Pretty neat, but about a $300 add on, plus a yearly fee through Viper I understand.
Mark

 

[SunlitComet]

do you not drive it that much at all that it needs a battery maintainer all the time? why not just program the remote starter to auto start for a fixed time to recharge it using the alternator when the battery reaches a certain voltage or cabin temperature threshold. mine has that ability. i use a fully optioned avantguard 5.1. or is it parked in an enclosed space?

 

[MarkD51]

do you not drive it that much at all that it needs a battery maintainer all the time? why not just program the remote starter to auto start for a fixed time to recharge it using the alternator when the battery reaches a certain voltage or cabin temperature threshold. mine has that ability. i use a fully optioned avantguard 5.1. or is it parked in an enclosed space?

Yes SLC, it's not a daily driver currently. And it's surprising just how fast a battery goes dead in this vehicle. Even an Optima Yellow Top can only take so much continual deep discharge and it's then caput. These alarms must have a fairly high current draw.

Yes, I believe I could do the same thing with mine, program the remote start but the truck drinks enough dead dinos as it is.

 

[SunlitComet]

mine with options draws less then 60 milliamps. at idle hot the engine should consume no more then .68 gallons an hour.

 

[MarkD51]

mine with options draws less then 60 milliamps. at idle hot the engine should consume no more then .68 gallons an hour.

Thank you again SLC for sharing your knowledge and wisdom, it's deeply appreciated.

I believe some months back, when I had the sensitivity of the Knock Sensor lessened, the owner did perform a amperage draw check, as said he noted nothing unusual on my vehicle, that amperage draw for my vehicle was typical-normal.

I forget the numbers though, getting old my friend, and the brain's gotten a bit forgetful, and fried.

I'll keep your suggestions-advice in mind as one other possible option.

One beauty of the Optima Batteries is dual terminals, so I do have the Pulsetech Charger's ring terminals connected there, and there is a good length of charger cable with a quick disconnect visible-accessible from the Grill. Thus 2 seconds, the charger is unhooked without even having to pop the hood. (Sort of like a block heater would be, simple access to plug in-unplug)

Since I have always wanted the Tilt Sensor, and wouldn't hurt to have with $2500 worth of new Wheels-Tires that will soon be on board, (hopefully soon) he said he'd install the Toggle Switch for the Knock Sensor free of charge.

They've been really great with me standing behind the products they sell, and install. About a month ago, I discovered I had a bad Driver's Door Switch, (was wondering why my darn interior lights weren't coming on!?)

I got the new switch, he installed it free, ad also gave me a brand spanking new 2-way Alarm Key Fob, saying "we've had too many problems with the older model Fob with battery doors breaking on them, so here's a new one free of charge"! There was nothing wrong with my old one, but very cool they treated me good like this.
Mark

 

[SunlitComet]

given a stock config, typical parasitic drain might be 7-15ma. a maximum of would be 30ma. in mild weather that would give 23 days roughly at a 30 ma draw. of course you likely have a different capacity battery then was used to calculate that. note if the battery gets below 32°f while discharged the damage becomes permanent.