Best approach to improve strength of front diff and axles on lifted 2007 Tahoe LTZ
- Thread starter BigRedB
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67RS427
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Build the front with quality bearings and let it eat... Same with the rear. The 10 bolt really isn't that weak, it has 30 spline axles. I rebuilt my front and rear diff with quality HD bearings and threw a TruTrac in the rear and I'm AWD. Every stop light is an AWD/4x4 launch for me and I have yet to break anything. Now with a lightweight wheel and drag radial setup at the track I might worry a little about the T case but that's about it. The front is an open diff so there is only planetary gears, not much to break. I even reused my original ring and pinion for front and rear and I'm currently sitting at 165k miles (Transfer case is original).
402" iron block, Lunati crank/rods, BTR Stg 3 Blower Cam, Heavily ported LSA blower, 2.5" upper/10% overdrive lower (14-15psi) and so much more... Making close to 850-900hp pretty easy and I beat the crap out of this thing daily on a pretty heavy wheel/tire combo (285/45/22 which is 32" tall)
402" iron block, Lunati crank/rods, BTR Stg 3 Blower Cam, Heavily ported LSA blower, 2.5" upper/10% overdrive lower (14-15psi) and so much more... Making close to 850-900hp pretty easy and I beat the crap out of this thing daily on a pretty heavy wheel/tire combo (285/45/22 which is 32" tall)
AFM uses different motor mounts?
PG01
Supporting Member
He is talking about going to a solid motor mount like the H3 (or other one I can’t remember the name of right now) as opposed to the stock oem hydraulic mount which supposedly helps with switching vibration from cylinder deactivation of the afm/dod system. Basically going solid mount.
randeez
Full Access Member
these have been on my radar for a while, but yea the 2500$ price is hard to commit to
, but being pretty much the only one doing it not many options.4l60e, is not known for its strength and durability - seeing as how its newer i would run it but not dump any more money into it. i've seen stock stock 4l80s outlive built 60s
10 bolt rear end, can be built pretty strong - i opted to swap it out. larger ring/pinion. same style oem g80 locker has a little better rep. axles are similar to the 10bolt but yukon makes replacements for the 14bolt semi float
front diff - being open carrier will likely not break, dont hear to much about axle problems, bearings and seals will wear out.
regearing will help a lot - i have 4.11s with the 6l80, if i had 35s i wouldnt want any less gear for sure..comapre he final drive you may want to get up even more
AJMBLAZER
Member
I’d go 4.56’s with the 35’s and at least swap the rear axle out.
GM half ton axles die due to big tires, high power, and hard use. You’re talking about all three.
GM half ton axles die due to big tires, high power, and hard use. You’re talking about all three.
Thank you this is some very helpful information. I have been doing all kinds of research but one can never beat advice from those who have already done it.
exactly, I prefer the solid mounts, I want to remove any shape hair or trace of AFM. I understand Chevy's logic but I have had enough of it on this vehicle, let her be free to eat fuel!!!
these have been on my radar for a while, but yea the 2500$ price is hard to commit to
4l60e, is not known for its strength and durability - seeing as how its newer i would run it but not dump any more money into it. i've seen stock stock 4l80s outlive built 60s
10 bolt rear end, can be built pretty strong - i opted to swap it out. larger ring/pinion. same style oem g80 locker has a little better rep. axles are similar to the 10bolt but yukon makes replacements for the 14bolt semi float
front diff - being open carrier will likely not break, dont hear to much about axle problems, bearings and seals will wear out.
regearing will help a lot - i have 4.11s with the 6l80, if i had 35s i wouldnt want any less gear for sure..comapre he final drive you may want to get up even more
Thanks for the advice. Im looking long eyed at the transmission. I have a real good torque convertor to replace the OEM. Ive been looking at gearing for the front and rear too, it helps to hear peoples experiences. I need to really decide on the ratio for the gearing, I am just about ready to buy, so I have think long and hard to make up my mind.
I am leaning towards changing gearing in the current set up, I will probably get the CV axles too. I will run it until it breaks and then I will swap in the 480le transmission and larger rear end, ultimately this is what will make me happy. I wish I would have known I would be rebuilding the top end on the engine before I bought the transmission and axle. I made the commitment so now I have to use it til it breaks.
