Best option for my transmission?

[NickTransmissions]

If you drive it conservatively, it will last longer (all other things equal) but make no mistake about it - flare shifts are not normal for any automatic transmission. They indicate a problem. Unfortunately, that problem can be sourced in any number of places, either in the electronic command and control, mechanical command and control (valve body), worn pump, leaking stator-pump cover gasket or as a consequence of worn applied elements/excessive clearance. WOT shifting and heavy duty use (Hauling/towing heavier loads) will exacerbate the problem so if you're only observing it during those times, simply minimize the transmission's exposure accordingly.

IMO, attempting to troubleshoot with the intent to fix the problem by throwing parts can be very time consuming and costly without producing the desired results thus IMO is not the best approach...Drive it until it fully craps out then overhaul it completely and properly.


@Geotrash - your flares could be sourced in the pump stator sealing ring-3-5-R drum area. Those pre 2009 units had the first design stator where cross-leaks and blow-by of apply fluid to the 3-5-R apply piston was common. GM corrected this issue in 2009+ model year vehicles by redesigning the stator to take rubber support o-rings underneath the primary sealing rings. This design exerts greater outward pressure of the sealing rings against the inner diameter of the 3-5-R drum, resulting in much better sealing integrity between the 1-2-3-4 clutch and 3-5-R clutch.

Relevant information:
> Slippage and/or flare shifts in 3rd, 5th; slip in reverse
> Slippage in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th
> Clunk During Engagement into Drive

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

If you drive it conservatively, it will last longer (all other things equal) but make no mistake about it - flare shifts are not normal for any automatic transmission. They indicate a problem. Unfortunately, that problem can be sourced in any number of places, either in the electronic command and control, mechanical command and control (valve body), worn pump, leaking stator-pump cover gasket or as a consequence of worn applied elements/excessive clearance. WOT shifting and heavy duty use (Hauling/towing heavier loads) will exacerbate the problem so if you're only observing it during those times, simply minimize the transmission's exposure accordingly.

IMO, attempting to troubleshoot with the intent to fix the problem by throwing parts can be very time consuming and costly without producing the desired results thus IMO is not the best approach...Drive it until it fully craps out then overhaul it completely and properly.


@Geotrash - your flares could be sourced in the pump stator sealing ring-3-5-R drum area. Those pre 2009 units had the first design stator where cross-leaks and blow-by of apply fluid to the 3-5-R apply piston was common. GM corrected this issue in 2009+ model year vehicles by redesigning the stator to take rubber support o-rings underneath the primary sealing rings. This design exerts greater outward pressure of the sealing rings against the inner diameter of the 3-5-R drum, resulting in much better sealing integrity between the 1-2-3-4 clutch and 3-5-R clutch.

Relevant information:
> Slippage and/or flare shifts in 3rd, 5th; slip in reverse
> Slippage in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th
> Clunk During Engagement into Drive

Thanks for info nick, I don’t do any towing but maybe previous 2 owners did as a trailer brake was installed already when I bought it. I have removed it since as I dont tow.

The most I would ever pull is a small trailer with furniture when I move. I’m sure it will
Be fine. But I’ll be really slow with it.

When towing smaller loads like small trailers is it still necessary to use tow mode? Or manual?

 

[NickTransmissions]

Thanks for info nick, I don’t do any towing but maybe previous 2 owners did as a trailer brake was installed already when I bought it. I have removed it since as I dont tow.

The most I would ever pull is a small trailer with furniture when I move. I’m sure it will
Be fine. But I’ll be really slow with it.

When towing smaller loads like small trailers is it still necessary to use tow mode? Or manual?

You're welcome. Use tow mode, stay out of overdrive (5th and 6th gears) when on incline or decline grades greater than 2%. Otherwise judicious use of manual mode will help alleviate stress on that 3-5-R clutch.


If you have to tow in OD, try to keep it in sixth gear to the extent you can so that your 3-5-R clutch is at rest most of the time. In sixth, your transmission uses the 4-5-6 clutch and the 2-6 clutch...The 4-5-6 clutch has it's own problems and is very susceptible to heat-driven failure so keep an eye on transmission temperatures (overheating will also cause temporary flare conditions which can progress to chronic flaring if left untreated). But if you're not experiencing any 3-4 shift issues or slippage in 4th (or 5th/6th) I have to assume those two clutch packs are healthy.

The main problem with these transmissions is all the frigging updating, strengthening and hardening to the mechanics you have to do on overhaul just to make it reliable/durable. There are so many design flaws and pattern failures/issues (just look at my parts list in that 6L80 Info thread for an idea) and thus costs a ton of $$$$ to address. That doesn't even get into the transmission and TCC control/apply strategies which need tuning to optimize (more $$$). If you're able to do all that stuff yourself, it's viable but if you can't, you're paying big dollars to get it back up and running again, knowing it will last.

 

[Geotrash]

If you drive it conservatively, it will last longer (all other things equal) but make no mistake about it - flare shifts are not normal for any automatic transmission. They indicate a problem. Unfortunately, that problem can be sourced in any number of places, either in the electronic command and control, mechanical command and control (valve body), worn pump, leaking stator-pump cover gasket or as a consequence of worn applied elements/excessive clearance. WOT shifting and heavy duty use (Hauling/towing heavier loads) will exacerbate the problem so if you're only observing it during those times, simply minimize the transmission's exposure accordingly.

IMO, attempting to troubleshoot with the intent to fix the problem by throwing parts can be very time consuming and costly without producing the desired results thus IMO is not the best approach...Drive it until it fully craps out then overhaul it completely and properly.


@Geotrash - your flares could be sourced in the pump stator sealing ring-3-5-R drum area. Those pre 2009 units had the first design stator where cross-leaks and blow-by of apply fluid to the 3-5-R apply piston was common. GM corrected this issue in 2009+ model year vehicles by redesigning the stator to take rubber support o-rings underneath the primary sealing rings. This design exerts greater outward pressure of the sealing rings against the inner diameter of the 3-5-R drum, resulting in much better sealing integrity between the 1-2-3-4 clutch and 3-5-R clutch.

Relevant information:
> Slippage and/or flare shifts in 3rd, 5th; slip in reverse
> Slippage in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th
> Clunk During Engagement into Drive

Makes complete sense - thank you, Nick! I drive it gently 99% of the time so hopefully it will last a bit longer.

 

[NickTransmissions]

Makes complete sense - thank you, Nick! I drive it gently 99% of the time so hopefully it will last a bit longer.

You're welcome, Dave!

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

You're welcome. Use tow mode, stay out of overdrive (5th and 6th gears) when on incline or decline grades greater than 2%. Otherwise judicious use of manual mode will help alleviate stress on that 3-5-R clutch.


If you have to tow in OD, try to keep it in sixth gear to the extent you can so that your 3-5-R clutch is at rest most of the time. In sixth, your transmission uses the 4-5-6 clutch and the 2-6 clutch...The 4-5-6 clutch has it's own problems and is very susceptible to heat-driven failure so keep an eye on transmission temperatures (overheating will also cause temporary flare conditions which can progress to chronic flaring if left untreated). But if you're not experiencing any 3-4 shift issues or slippage in 4th (or 5th/6th) I have to assume those two clutch packs are healthy.

The main problem with these transmissions is all the frigging updating, strengthening and hardening to the mechanics you have to do on overhaul just to make it reliable/durable. There are so many design flaws and pattern failures/issues (just look at my parts list in that 6L80 Info thread for an idea) and thus costs a ton of $$$$ to address. That doesn't even get into the transmission and TCC control/apply strategies which need tuning to optimize (more $$$). If you're able to do all that stuff yourself, it's viable but if you can't, you're paying big dollars to get it back up and running again, knowing it will last.

Well now I’m actually looking forward to having it rebuilt!