bleeding brakes after line change

[yellowkid]

So I finally wrapped up changing the steel lines in my 2004 Yukon after a burst line and brake failure. used the pre-bent GM kit and it was time consuming but relatively straight forward. also did the rubber lines, rebuilt calipers, pads/rotor. so everything's new. bled with a vacuum bleeder which worked great. did them all a couple times, got a firm pedal, went out and braked a bunch of times on gravel etc to try and get the ABS model to cycle. everything works great now, but when I bleed I'm still getting air intermittently even tho the pedal feels good and it stops well. I read that you need to go to a dealer and have it bled electrically to open all the ABS solenoids. but is there an alternative? I hate to bring it in now after doing all the work. should I drive it for a while and go back and bleed again? thx! jp

 

[yellowkid]

hi -- posted this earlier in the day but no responses -- this seems like a very common issue with these -- am I posting in the wrong place or asking the wrong question? thx.

 

[2011SSVHOE]

maybe that's where the Tech-2 scanner might come in handy, just my guess!, oh and always , just my 2 cents


p.s. call a dealer to see how they do it. and how much they clean your wallet for !!!

 

[rockola1971]

For what the dealership charges you could buy your own ****** clone Tech 2. Its what i did.

Try gravity bleeding then lock brakes up 3 or 4 times which forces air to the calipers then bleed again normally. Worked fine on my 03 Tahoe. The tech 2 has a bleed function built in that cycles the ABS solenoids and the thing self bleeds except you have to crack open the bleeders. Just order a ****** clone Tech 2, it will pay for itself just in your bleeding problem alone. They are very easy to use. All menu driven.
Menu item F0 is for automatic bleed function