It shouldn't be much, it's a pretty basic amp/ sub install. I'd get a quote from them on the whole thing and one for labor only. They might cut you a break on labor if you buy from them. That way you can see which way is cheaper.
Bose Premium - possible to replace stock sub, keep all else the same?
- Thread starter MichaelSE
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While I agree, arguing doesn't help and becomes counter productive after a certain point - regardless your past experience or how 'new' he is to the forum, I also think you, the OP, as well as other readers can benefit a lot from listening to what Scott is saying here since he's dead-on accurate in both of his posts and there is nothing there that can be argued with.
He is most definitely NOT correct in his posts, much less dead-on accurate. A prime example is his understanding of impedance versus resistance. You can Google that if you'd like. It literally IS the same thing, only resistance is the term used in DC circuits and impedance is the term used in AC circuits. Here's a better explanation but you can read much more online. I was also an electronic technician for many years and am schooled in AC and DC electronic theory. I can prove nearly every statement he made as wrong but I'm sure everybody would be yawning by the end. Google is great, but there's no substitute for actual school.
"By its very nature a DC circuit will not exhibit any form of Reactance, therefore opposition to current flow will always be measured in Resistance. Reactance exists in two forms, Capacitive & Inductive. Impedance can therefore be thought of as the opposition of electrical current flow in a AC circuit."
"Resistance is a concept used for DC (direct currents) whereas impedance is the AC (alternating current) equivalent. Resistance is due to electrons in a conductor colliding with the ionic lattice of the conductor meaning that electrical energy is converted into heat."
So much for not wanting to argue about it eh? 
Your google information you shared is great for general/basic definitions, but once you start to apply these ideas in an audio application and look at how things work & react in the real world, then you'll learn that there's more to it and that Scott was right on. Being an electronic tech, and also a previous car audio installer yourself, this should be pretty basic for you.
Here's what a google gave once we search for resistance vs impedance and include 'speaker' in the search: http://www.bcae1.com/resvsimp.htm
Please see where it says "... The impedance of a speaker is not a constant. It's actual impedance changes with frequency and can vary greatly. Manufacturers give you a nominal impedance, which is generally the average impedance that the speaker will present to the amplifier when driven within the part of the audio spectrum that its designed to reproduce."
And then re-read Scott's second post where he says: "The impedance of any speaker varies with frequency. That's why it's called impedance and not resistance. A speaker with a rated 1 ohm NOMINAL impedance very likely sees swings of up to 20 ohms or greater throughout its passband. The tuning of the enclosure can also greatly affect impedance. If you're bored do a Google search for 'speaker impedance curve'."
That's one example.
I think it would be interesting to see where you see this as 'wrong', as well as where you think everything else he said you can prove wrong. Don't work about boring people as think this is a pretty interesting discussion, 'specially given the subject of the thread as well as the sub-forum it's in!
(But if you chose to continue the discussion, let's try to refrain from condescending tones and keep it civil in the attempt not to put others down, but help readers gain better understanding)
Your google information you shared is great for general/basic definitions, but once you start to apply these ideas in an audio application and look at how things work & react in the real world, then you'll learn that there's more to it and that Scott was right on. Being an electronic tech, and also a previous car audio installer yourself, this should be pretty basic for you.
Here's what a google gave once we search for resistance vs impedance and include 'speaker' in the search: http://www.bcae1.com/resvsimp.htm
Please see where it says "... The impedance of a speaker is not a constant. It's actual impedance changes with frequency and can vary greatly. Manufacturers give you a nominal impedance, which is generally the average impedance that the speaker will present to the amplifier when driven within the part of the audio spectrum that its designed to reproduce."
And then re-read Scott's second post where he says: "The impedance of any speaker varies with frequency. That's why it's called impedance and not resistance. A speaker with a rated 1 ohm NOMINAL impedance very likely sees swings of up to 20 ohms or greater throughout its passband. The tuning of the enclosure can also greatly affect impedance. If you're bored do a Google search for 'speaker impedance curve'."
That's one example.
I think it would be interesting to see where you see this as 'wrong', as well as where you think everything else he said you can prove wrong. Don't work about boring people as think this is a pretty interesting discussion, 'specially given the subject of the thread as well as the sub-forum it's in!
(But if you chose to continue the discussion, let's try to refrain from condescending tones and keep it civil in the attempt not to put others down, but help readers gain better understanding)
See why I didn't want to go there? Youre arguing semantics. Yes speakers vary as the cone moves, that's a no brainer. Amps, especially OEM amps, are rated for nominal impedance. You can argue this stuff for days and never actually prove anything. If you know anything about electronics, the first thing they teach you is it is nearly all theory and very few laws. But you go ahead and believe whatever theories you want, and when you hook up a nominally rated 4 ohm speaker to an OEM amp designed for a nominally rated 2 ohm speaker and play it at loud volume for an hour, you tell me just how loud it actually is compared to the speaker it was rated for and then we can see how long it lasts before an audio IC blows or melts. Aftermarket amps often are stable at ranges from 1 ohm nominal to 4 ohms nominal and are advertised and rated as such. Their circuitry is designed for this as they try to accommodate a wider range of applications. OEM's don't built this into their stuff as they want you locked into their product. That's why their amps blow when people use aftermarket speakers without paying attention to the details. If you want to keep arguing you'll have to find someone else, I'm done thanks.
Look, you are the one that claimed Scott was wrong: "He is most definitely NOT correct in his posts, much less dead-on accurate. A prime example is his understanding of impedance versus resistance."
I was simply showing how he was exactly correct in what he said. But I understand why you would chose to completely avoiding my questions/points further to go off on a tangent.
Since you aren't willing to have a rational, non-personal discussion that actually backs up your erroneous claims against Scott, I'm ok with your choice to avoid the issue.
Take it easy!
I was simply showing how he was exactly correct in what he said. But I understand why you would chose to completely avoiding my questions/points further to go off on a tangent.
Since you aren't willing to have a rational, non-personal discussion that actually backs up your erroneous claims against Scott, I'm ok with your choice to avoid the issue.
Take it easy!
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Yeah? Well...
jerryjoe28
That Guy
when I bought my truck the PO had installed a in "low line output" spliced right into the speaker wire in the console. ran RCAs to a after market amp and sub in the back. this would get you the extra "boom" u want and is not that hard to do! I actually just dumped all of my factory bose, new head unit, door speakers, amp, new wire and sub. WOW what a difference
iamdub
Full Access Member
I saw where a guy did something like this in his NNBS. He found the pins and connectors that match the OEM harness (same connector that is in the BOSE amp) and made a plug-and-play adapter harness to have RCAs right there. He said those were low-level signal wires from the radio that had a surprisingly clean signal. The BOSE amp was still in place so the rest of the sound processing (door/warning chimes) was functional. I'm considering doing more like what you mentioned- leaving it all hooked up as-is but just splicing into a right and left channel (probably should do the front?) with some short cables with female RCAs. I'd solder and heat shrink and make it neat. I need to research if the impedance of the long RCA cables ran to the back and of the input impedance of a sub amp would have any real effect on the signal going into the BOSE amp/processor. I wouldn't mind keeping the stock sub in place and functional for the higher bass frequencies and just add a nice single woofer in the back for some strong thump. I'd make it all removable with quick-disconnects on the wiring if I needed my cargo space and I'd still have some "bass sound" from the OEM setup.
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