Brake question

[sumtallguy]

Hello,

I recently bought a 2000 Chevrolet Tahoe with 178,000 miles on it. It has a few minor issues, most of which I have been able to diagnose using Google and these forums. However, I seem to have a brake issue that I'm a little stumped by and was hoping somebody could shed some light on for me. This vehicle is not my daily driver, I basically use it only when I have to travel out of the county (typically 60-120 mile round trips).

The Tahoe has seemed to drive a little sluggish, especially until I get it up to around 30mph. At first I thought it was due to the fuel pressure regulator or some sort of fuel pump issue, but not I'm not so sure. Yesterday I drove 30 miles to another city with no problems. When I returned home and parked, I exited the vehicle and noticed smoke coming from my rear driver side tire.

I looked closer and it appeared to be coming from the brakes... and there was a burning smell along with the smoke. What makes me think this is an issue that's been going on for awhile is the fact that 3 of the tires on the Tahoe are in great shape and look almost brand new. One of the tires has significantly more wear on it-- can you guess which one? The same tire as the smoking brakes.

So my question is, does this sound like a stuck caliper? And could this be the reason the tire has so much wear on it? If it is a stuck caliper, should I just go ahead and replace both rear calipers, rotors and pads, or just the one?

Any help is appreciated! Thanks for reading.

 

[iamdub]

Stuck caliper or slide pins are the likely causes. At 178K, I'd replace both calipers and clean or replace the hardware (slide pins, etc.). Chances are the pads on that one side are roached or at least very much glazed. I'd replace pads on both sides as well. A collapsed brake hose can cause brakes to stick. They're another cheap insurance item to replace while you're in there with it all taken apart and so you know for sure you're covering all the possibilities. Plus you'll only have to bleed the system once instead of again if you finish and then find out it's a hose and not a caliper. I recommend bleeding out all the fluid through the rear brakes (right rear first) to get all new fluid in the system. Chances are the current fluid is a bit aged and it's certainly been boiled a few times from that sticking corner.

I guess it's possible for the tire on that one side to wear more from a sticking brake. The passenger side is the primary drive side, so every lefthand turn could be inducing some slight loss of traction and scrubbing on that left side tire. It'd have to have been doing this for a long time to make a noticeable difference in the tread wear. I feel it's more likely that the previous owner swapped the tires left-to-right. Maybe he had a heavy foot and spun that right rear tire too often.

 

[sumtallguy]

The brake fluid is definitely more than a bit aged, it looks like black oil. I just watched a video on YouTube and realized it should be clear.

I'll go ahead and replace the rear calipers, rotors, pads, and brake hose to be safe. I appreciate your response!

 

[iamdub]

The brake fluid is definitely more than a bit aged, it looks like black oil. I just watched a video on YouTube and realized it should be clear.

I'll go ahead and replace the rear calipers, rotors, pads, and brake hose to be safe. I appreciate your response!

Do it right or do it twice!

 

[HiHoeSilver]

The brake fluid is definitely more than a bit aged, it looks like black oil. I just watched a video on YouTube and realized it should be clear.

I'll go ahead and replace the rear calipers, rotors, pads, and brake hose to be safe. I appreciate your response!

Get stainless lines for those calipers.

 

[sumtallguy]

I've only ever replaced pads and rotors, I've never dealt with the calipers or brake lines and hoses, so let me ask this: I should replace the brake hoses, which are rubber hoses that are connected to the steel brake lines, right? So far my search for parts has come up empty handed... it seems all the brake hoses are either front right, front left, or rear center.... I haven't found rear left or rear right. Does the rear center work for both sides on the rear brakes? And is replacing the brakes hose a simple bolt on procedure?

I'll get stainless steel lines for the calipers. I want to get what's going to last!

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Here is one set from rock auto. There are other mfrs you can cross reference. These are the SS replacements for the rubber hoses. I just pulled it up quickly, so do some checking to verify these are correct...

 

[rockola1971]

Be prepared for the brake bleeding to give you hell after you open the system up. It WILL NOT bleed like the old way we are so well use to doing. The ABS manifold has solenoids that trap air in the system and that keeps the pedal from firming up. You will need a scan tool that has the bleed procedure built in, or get it to a garage that can do it or get you a ****** clone Tech2 (this is what a did). You also have the option of gravity bleeding with a series of locking brakes up and activating the ABS (this pushes the air out). Ive had success with this but I forked out the $250 and got me a ****** Tech2 and it takes care of it all and then some now. Worth every penny I paid for it to me.

 

[sumtallguy]

Be prepared for the brake bleeding to give you hell after you open the system up. It WILL NOT bleed like the old way we are so well use to doing. The ABS manifold has solenoids that trap air in the system and that keeps the pedal from firming up. You will need a scan tool that has the bleed procedure built in, or get it to a garage that can do it or get you a ****** clone Tech2 (this is what a did). You also have the option of gravity bleeding with a series of locking brakes up and activating the ABS (this pushes the air out). Ive had success with this but I forked out the $250 and got me a ****** Tech2 and it takes care of it all and then some now. Worth every penny I paid for it to me.

So I won't be able to bleed the brakes the "old fashioned" way? What I've read is that I won't need the scan tool unless I let the master cylinder run empty, is this not true?

 

[HiHoeSilver]

So I won't be able to bleed the brakes the "old fashioned" way? What I've read is that I won't need the scan tool unless I let the master cylinder run empty, is this not true?

Here is @iamdub 's method :

Technically, no, as Ken said.

But, if it needs a fluid change, now's a good time since you start at the back anyway. I bleed brakes by myself. I pour about 2 inches of fresh fluid into a Smart Water bottle (the kind with the flip top lid) to let the hose be submerged and to weight the bottle down. I use some clear hose I bought from Lowe's or Home Depot and stick it into the bottle until the hose reaches the bottom and curves to the side. The hose is a good fit through the bottle's spout. I slip the other end over the bleeder screw, crack it loose, then go slowly push the pedal- no need to pump. I learned that you should NOT push the pedal all the way to the floor. Try to not go any further than you would if you were making an emergency stop. I pump it a few times then quickly go check the hose for air bubbles. I check the reservoir then pump some more. Of course, you start at the right rear. So, you can bleed this one until the fluid in the hose goes from dark (the old fluid) to light (new fluid) and you'd have most of the old stuff out of the system. Move to the left rear and do the same. If your clear hose is long enough, you can position the bottle so that you can see it while you pump. A few times while pumping, I'll turn the key to the "on" position (not crank) to cycle the solenoids in the ABS module. I do this right after I start to push on the pedal. This will push out any air trapped in the ABS valves. It may sound like a lot, but it's really not and I can bleed much faster this way than if I had help because I don't have to keep barking out "Pump!" "Hold!" "Are you pumping?!" "How's the pedal feel?!" "Are you holding?!" "Are you still there?!"