Question: What do you mean "DO NOT WARM the engine up at idle"? I thought it helps the engine to turn it on for a minute or two and let it idle in Park (no revving of the engine) before you engage it in Drive. Please clarify your recommendation and the reason.
BREAKING: GM is officially recalling the L87
- Thread starter DontTaseMeBro
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Stbentoak
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2020
- Posts
- 1,859
- Reaction score
- 2,164
An in line 6 diesel is about the most simple, common, dependable and recreated diesel engine ever made. I believe the fundamentals of the engine are rock solid, it's all the junk that they have hung on it that make it let's say..... less than bulletproof. The only really known issues with this engine are the coolant control valve which is another under engineered/mis engineered part made from plastic, and the crank no start issue which was back in 2020 that was fixed by a software update. And of course, the 10-speed transmission recall which affects us all.
To be sure I'm sure there's some of them out there that have failed for some catastrophic reason, but you don't hear of any widespread or "Recall" level issues or people being stranded besides the road by the hundreds or thousands. For as many people that have reported on here about petrol problems,AFM DFM,Lifters..etc. and replacement engines, there's probably thousands more out there...maybe 10's of thousands... who are just riding it through and may not even know this forum, or others exist....
Also, a pretty fair share of these 3.0 owners are not really worried about the post warranty and don't keep these vehicles much longer than the six/100...Me included...
Also here is a copy of 2 consecutive oil analyses on a 3.0 @13K miles and 18K miles with DexosD 0W-20. Appx 5600 miles on each test specimen. Both of them less than 1/2 of 1 Percent fuel dilution.... and still plenty of life left in oil....
I am a newbie to engine discussions. My '24 Yukon Denali engine failed with just 13K miles for this connecting rod/crankshaft issue, and my engine is being replaced after waiting 5 weeks for a new engine. Could you please clarify your recommendations:
- is using the Remote Start and "idling for warm up from cold start" bad for the vehicle? Are you recommending to start and and put in gear immediately?
- I think I have the option of disabling the Auto Stop/Start, but how do you disable the DFM?
Thank you for your guidance.
Do not warm the engine up at idle. Start the engine, allow the RPM to drop to normal idle speed and then drive the vehicle.
See if this is self explanatory. The lower horizontal axis is in Seconds.
NHTSA opens probe of over 877K GM vehicles for engine failures
Owners of the vehicles complained of connecting rod bearing wear, which has led to catastrophic engine damage without any prior symptoms.
The ENTIRE problem with the 6.2l is how the TCM (Transmission Control Module) puts the engine under 70%-100% load at 1500-1700 RPM. The engine is being "lugged" which puts massive strain on the engine bearings. Then add the stupid DFM which is having as few as 1 cylinder turning the entire engine rotating mass. Then add the fact the oil Spec is 0W20 and then once fuel dilutes the oil, you have nothing left other than a solvent to lubricate the engine. Just search my user name, I have a bunch of graphs that show everything from transmission behavior, engine knock under load, engine loading and more.
See the post above which graphs out the difference of a 15 minute idle vs driving the vehicle. Start the engine, allow the engine RPM to come down to the typical idle speed then drive the car normally. Try not to make multiple short trips, try not to drive 10-15 minutes and shut the engine off and allow it to cool down. Just look how long it take the engine oil to warm up in these V8's. Part of the issue is there is a lot of oil. Even with the oil cooler in the radiator, once the thermostat opens you still are struggling to get the oil heated up.
For those that have 2024 models, I recommend the Range DFM disabler, it disables the Auto Stop/Start and DFM when driving. The lifters do appear to collapse under DFCO (Decel with Fuel Cut Off) not so much of an issue IMHO, at least you are activating the lifters sometimes to flush fresh oil in them. Pretty easy DIY to installed, out of the way and it appears to work fine. Another option is to drive in L9 up to 55 MPH, L8-L10 are all overdrive ratios anyway. But for highway cruising I would put it in 10th gear at that point.
Doing everything on my end to hopefully not becoming a victim of this mess. Interesting that the article about why the 2025 models were not recalled indicated "A series of crankshaft and connecting rod manufacturing improvements implemented on or before June 1st, 2024, addressed contamination and quality issues."
What the hell does that mean?? Contamination and Quality issues?
Anyway, my engine was produced on July 15, 2024 so hopefully my engine may have benefitted from any changes made?? Maybe my 2024 will not be included in the recall, we shall see.
Only time will tell if the change to 0W40 will save any existing engines on the road and if the 2025's running 0W20 will not end up failing like the prior years.
rmsnickers
Member
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2022
- Posts
- 54
- Reaction score
- 43
Really sorry to hear about everyone's misfortune with the 6.2L; I had a deposit at two dealers for one of these but GM never honored the build and I got my money back. Picked up a new '23 Tahoe with the 5.3L and still wondering if there's much concern about these engines with the 0W-20 and DFM if I'm occasionally towing near max limit and live in the pacific nw?
I was thinking of picking up the Carbyte DFM/auto stop disabler (i see Range mentioned in this thread) but I want to be sure there's no impact to warranty running one of these in my rig.
I was thinking of picking up the Carbyte DFM/auto stop disabler (i see Range mentioned in this thread) but I want to be sure there's no impact to warranty running one of these in my rig.
So, if in the PNW, must be worried about towing in the passes at max limit.
I know that the new ones have all the bells and whistles and creature comforts and may be the "cat's meow" to drive as a rental, when I know it is not mine and not making payments with the crap in the back of my mind about DFM. But each day I read and feel even better about my GMT800's.
With, I have to say this, the most comfortable seats GM ever made.
It looks like 2013/2014 was the switch over to 0W-20. While that is a very thin oil it seems like the switch to thicker oil is a band aid to get the engines with defective parts past the warranty period. There's a lot of years of vehicles with a lot of problem free miles on them running 0W-20 to put the blame on oil.
Roller lifters have been around for several decades with no problems in various applications. They were even reliable in the early iterations of the variable cylinder applications. It seems like for both GM and Chrysler it's when they took it to the next level that they started having problems.
It's pretty sad when this push for ultimate fuel mileage and emissions can f!*k up what were once reliable drivetrains so badly.
Roller lifters have been around for several decades with no problems in various applications. They were even reliable in the early iterations of the variable cylinder applications. It seems like for both GM and Chrysler it's when they took it to the next level that they started having problems.
It's pretty sad when this push for ultimate fuel mileage and emissions can f!*k up what were once reliable drivetrains so badly.
Similar threads
