Broken Motor Mounts
- Thread starter osidesurfer365
- Start date
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Meccanoble
Full Access Member
The visible section of the engine in between a beam and the sway bar. There is a small window of opportunity. If your wood is too wide, it wont fit between that area and if your setup is not high enough, the jack can get in the way before you start lifting. I did majority of my work from driver side to pull and add mount. The top was useful for bolt install/removal on the sides closest to the front of the car, while the driver wheel area was most helpful with the bolts closest to rear. Since I'm 4WD, I had no good options from below, atleast for the part towards the rear. I'm sure I'm not alone in saying for 4WD, the bolt closest to passenger/rear is the worst. You dont have enough room for an extension and need a ratchet with an angle or adjuster/tilter.
I also took heat shield off to help with mount removal and moved a wire while pulling on the wheel well plastic to help maneuver mount out.
iamdub
Full Access Member
I'm sure you're ok in this instance. But, going forward, just know that tighter does not always mean better. Too tight can be worse than not tight enough.
I almost learned that the hard way on some hub mounting bolts. It's only three bolts and they hold your hub and wheel on, so they're quite critical.
I almost learned that the hard way on some hub mounting bolts. It's only three bolts and they hold your hub and wheel on, so they're quite critical.
Meccanoble
Full Access Member
I agree with you. I think I took a frustration route as the only thing that made sense for these bolts to come loose in the first place (even the ones I know I tightened to spec successfully) is not tight enough. I will definitely use the right torques in all situations.
iamdub
Full Access Member
I'm just glad it was an easy fix and that you didn't actually kill an H3 mount. That one was a mind boggler.
That would have been the first H3 Mount to break on a mostly stock truck that I had heard of so I’m glad it wasn’t the case.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Word. Those of us running the H3s might be more relieved than he is. lol
Luie
Full Access Member
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These H3 mounts I assume are from the Hummer and are a better option for the Tahoe?
Meccanoble
Full Access Member
LMAO! I promise you guys I'm way more relieved. I spent HOURS looking at different cars with solid mounts to compare vibration levels and I am a firm believer in stats and data. I hate to be the one off and was questioning my existance ever since i thought that mount was broken. Why me?
But the GREATEST relief was when I saw the mount partially off and what I thought were BOLTS still stuck on the mount (they were heads on the mount for something else, look totally different), I thought half the bolts were stuck in the engine. You know that feeling when you are royally FUXED so you are kind of calm but crying inside? I went from one project to a bigger project in my head. The relief of ONLY missing bolts. Things could always be worst and we always think the worst.
I have to look for all the threads and reviews where i bashed the H3 mounts and correct my feedback.
But the GREATEST relief was when I saw the mount partially off and what I thought were BOLTS still stuck on the mount (they were heads on the mount for something else, look totally different), I thought half the bolts were stuck in the engine. You know that feeling when you are royally FUXED so you are kind of calm but crying inside? I went from one project to a bigger project in my head. The relief of ONLY missing bolts. Things could always be worst and we always think the worst.
I have to look for all the threads and reviews where i bashed the H3 mounts and correct my feedback.
Meccanoble
Full Access Member
On another note, the engine has been jumping up and slamming on that mount for who knows how long. Very dangerous situation on my part, even during the testing phase sitting in one spot. I think this speaks volumes on the quality of the H3 mount to still be fully functional.
