Broken Motor Mounts

[Luie]

I had to replace my engine mounts a few years ago and for the life of me cant remember where or what brand they are. Im guessing off Amazon...

 

[Meccanoble]

No painting of any kind is necessary.

Here's some at Home Depot: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Prime-L...Hex-Head-Cap-Screws-10-Pack-9114719/310516216

Apparently, 20mm is actually a standard/common length. Maybe they're just always out of stock when I shop for them. They're out of stock at my local Home Depot. Get 20mm and you won't have to grind anything, just screw 'em right in, with or without a little thread locker if you want. You could stick something in one of the holes, and hold your fingernail on it to mark the depth so you'd know if a 25mm bolt would work in case the 20mm isn't available. Don't have a metric ruler? Just know that one inch is 25.4mm. So, if you have right at an inch of depth or a little more, then you can use a 25mm bolt. You could always use a thick washer to space it out if it comes to that. I'd get washers anyway. It's just four bolts in four holes- nothing complicated.

I'm sure any decent local hardware store (Ace, True Value, whatever mom-and-pop store is close to you, etc.) would have what you need as well. No need for dealership visit or cost, if they even have them in stock.

My goodness I feel blessed. Few things!

First, I thought the 4 bolts that go into engine were same as the one that goes into frame. The engine side is a LOT shorter than the side that goes into frame. If I ran to this trying to fix on my own, I would have been stressed exponentially!!!

Secondly, I went to Home Depot looking for a similar bolt but wanted the hex flange. Not sure if it matters. I found some but they were silver like these and the guy that worked there told me they were not rated Grade 8. The ones I wanted take a week to come in. I didnt look at the non flange type like what you sent.

I DESPERATELY ran to Napa with failure but O'Reilly's had a Dorman set that were rated Grade 10.9 and GOLD like the Home Depot guy recommended. I also got blue loctite to use just to play it safe as my torque ability in a tight spot is now questionable.

I am so grateful for all the resources I encountered today. I first looked at that mount and thought the bolts snapped in the engine (cried inside) to now being able to possibly get this installed today! I'll keep you all posted.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Just curious, because I'm not familiar with GM mounts, but how many bolts does one take for each side?

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[iamdub]

Just curious, because I'm not familiar with GM mounts, but how many bolts does one take for each side?

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Four on the engine block side, three on the frame side.

 

[iamdub]

My goodness I feel blessed. Few things!

First, I thought the 4 bolts that go into engine were same as the one that goes into frame. The engine side is a LOT shorter than the side that goes into frame. If I ran to this trying to fix on my own, I would have been stressed exponentially!!!

Secondly, I went to Home Depot looking for a similar bolt but wanted the hex flange. Not sure if it matters. I found some but they were silver like these and the guy that worked there told me they were not rated Grade 8. The ones I wanted take a week to come in. I didnt look at the non flange type like what you sent.

I DESPERATELY ran to Napa with failure but O'Reilly's had a Dorman set that were rated Grade 10.9 and GOLD like the Home Depot guy recommended. I also got blue loctite to use just to play it safe as my torque ability in a tight spot is now questionable.

I am so grateful for all the resources I encountered today. I first looked at that mount and thought the bolts snapped in the engine (cried inside) to now being able to possibly get this installed today! I'll keep you all posted.

Yes, the gold is the zinc chromate, the anti-corrosion coating usually associated with the high-strength machine bolts. It's durable but not thick so it doesn't cause fitment problems. Plain zinc is the bright silver coating which is a little less durable, is cheaper, and is more common everywhere else. There's a whole lot of other factors in bolt material and coatings but you can Google that if you ever find yourself bored enough to geek out on it. Glad you're making progress!

 

[Meccanoble]

The 2 bolts closer to the front of the car were easy, I was able to torque. I torqued to 50 ft/lbs to play it safe. The 2 on the side closer to the inside of car were harder as I remembered from previous installs. I was able to hand tight the one closest to driver side but will need a smaller ratchet with angles to properly tighten the last one. Needed a quick break

 

[Rocket Man]

The 2 bolts closer to the front of the car were easy, I was able to torque. I torqued to 50 ft/lbs to play it safe. The 2 on the side closer to the inside of car were harder as I remembered from previous installs. I was able to hand tight the one closest to driver side but will need a smaller ratchet with angles to properly tighten the last one. Needed a quick break

Be careful if your block is aluminum that you don’t over torque them and strip or deform the threads. Torque specs are for a reason and you went more than 25% over spec.

 

[Meccanoble]

Pictures

 

[Meccanoble]

The jack lifting the engine up has 7" high of wood. The top 2 pieces are no more than 3" wide.

 

[Meccanoble]

Be careful if your block is aluminum that you don’t over torque them and strip or deform the threads. Torque specs are for a reason and you went more than 25% over spec.

Thanks for the advice. I seen 100 tq would be ok and thought 50 would be no biggie. I ended up using a wrench to get that last bolt as tight as I could. That front DIFF seems to limit so much access.

My test drive was successful. Noise is gone and that start up seems quick.