Broken Motor Mounts

[George B]

25847739, I paid $100ea at Rock Auto last April

That ship has sailed…

ACDELCO 25847739 Motor Mount | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

 

[PatDTN]

When I swapped engines last I removed the front wheel and plastic wheel well liner. That made accessing the mount much easier than when I replaced the mount before. Gave enough better access to make the extra work worthwhile.

 

[davidl13]

Change both sides with H3 motor mount pt# 25847739​

Is this the correct part number for the 2009 Yukon? And what is the part number for the upgraded 3rd mount on the cross member/tranny mount?

Thanks in advance

 

[donjetman]

2wd, 4wd, awd?

Here's all the part #s I used on our 2007 awd 6.2L Denali:
Changed all four O2 sensors, two # 213-3533, $58ea, & two # 213-3538, $53ea
Changed knock sensors, two# 213-1576, $11 ea
Changed both differential mount brackets, GM# 23104735 & 6
Changed both motor mounts (2), GM# 25847739, $100 ea
Changed tranny mount, GM# 15840278, $41
Changed trans pan ATF (6 qts) ACDelco Dexron6 #10-9395, $39
Changed trans filter GM# 24236933, $26
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/front-differential-mounts.120260/page-3#post-1676685

 

[davidl13]

2wd, 4wd, awd?

Here's all the part #s I used on our 2007 awd 6.2L Denali:
Changed all four O2 sensors, two # 213-3533, $58ea, & two # 213-3538, $53ea
Changed knock sensors, two# 213-1576, $11 ea
Changed both differential mount brackets, GM# 23104735 & 6
Changed both motor mounts (2), GM# 25847739, $100 ea
Changed tranny mount, GM# 15840278, $41
Changed trans pan ATF (6 qts) ACDelco Dexron6 #10-9395, $39
Changed trans filter GM# 24236933, $26
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/front-differential-mounts.120260/page-3#post-1676685

2009 Tahoe LTZ / z71, 5.3 4x4

 

[77mercury77]

I've done a couple sets of these now on various Denalis with 6.2L. I found that you can really make it easy on yourself by removing the tire for the side you are working on. After the truck is secure, you can use a floor jack to lift gently with a wood block on the exhaust down pipe. This will allow for that "little extra" room that seems to be needed to wiggle them out. First set, cussed all the bad words......second set figured out the jack idea and had both sides done in less than an hour.

I am going to be doing both sides on a 2010 Escalade ESV. Is pushing up on the cats better than the rear side of the oil pan? Both seem risky. Oil pan/pickip deformation and damaging the pan seal vs craking the exhaust tubing and shearing the flange bolts. Which is best in terms of lowest risk and highest chance of success?

 

[Geotrash]

I am going to be doing both sides on a 2010 Escalade ESV. Is pushing up on the cats better than the rear side of the oil pan? Both seem risky. Oil pan/pickip deformation and damaging the pan seal vs craking the exhaust tubing and shearing the flange bolts. Which is best in terms of lowest risk and highest chance of success?

I used a block of wood under the oil pan and it went fine. 2012 GMC Yukon XL Denali.

 

[iamdub]

I am going to be doing both sides on a 2010 Escalade ESV. Is pushing up on the cats better than the rear side of the oil pan? Both seem risky. Oil pan/pickip deformation and damaging the pan seal vs craking the exhaust tubing and shearing the flange bolts. Which is best in terms of lowest risk and highest chance of success?

Oil pan is cast aluminum and would crack before it deforms. Having said that, it's a structural part of the bottom end. As Dave said- a block of wood on a jack is fine. I'd like to add that I replaced one side at a time. Having one side secured when jacking it up makes the engine roll to the side a little, giving a hair more working space.

If you still would rather not use the oil pan, there are blocks sticking out from the engine block that you can put a short length of lumber, like a 2x4 under and jack it up with that.


It's the "cube" jutting out under cylinder #7 in this pic. There's one under cylinder #8, too:

 

[B-train]

I am going to be doing both sides on a 2010 Escalade ESV. Is pushing up on the cats better than the rear side of the oil pan? Both seem risky. Oil pan/pickip deformation and damaging the pan seal vs craking the exhaust tubing and shearing the flange bolts. Which is best in terms of lowest risk and highest chance of success?

Along with the other replies, just be gentle. All it takes is a little upwards pressure to relieve the mount. I went with exhaust because it put more emphasis on the side I was working with instead if lifting the whole motor from the pan (the pans are pretty tough FYI, a board on a jack is no issue).

Again, just a little finesse to get the job done. You'll know when you have the right amount........baby steps (or pumps)

 

[alpha_omega]

I am going to be doing both sides on a 2010 Escalade ESV. Is pushing up on the cats better than the rear side of the oil pan? Both seem risky. Oil pan/pickip deformation and damaging the pan seal vs craking the exhaust tubing and shearing the flange bolts. Which is best in terms of lowest risk and highest chance of success?

I have a 2011 Denali AWD and I used a block of wood under the exhaust. Granted I had recently replaced the manifold, the gaskets and the hardware, so I wasn’t worried about things being loose. I’ve done the oil pan method in the past, but would rather not put that much stress on it and like @B-train said, going with the exhaust route you get a more focused lift on the specific side you’re working on.