Build thread - 3.08 to 3.42 front and rear gear change

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j91z28d1

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what's lube locker. by the reviews I can't tell if it's a gasket or a brand of rtv?
 

mikez71

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RTFPP- something something something previous post.. :p
 

swathdiver

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But where did you.... how did you..... w/o the picture??

Nice pull!

Just another Wednesday for SD
I bought it because of the part number. Got it in the other day, still in the sleeve.

We're supposed to work on the axle tomorrow or Saturday, to get that last .002-3 of ring gear clearance and do the yellow gear mesh thing before moving on.
 

Doubeleive

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Got it, thanks. Hanger bracket for both p-brake cables installed now and functional in the bracket for the LCA!



All the oil had drained out of mine when I got it from LKQ, so I don't know. :)

Speaking of rear diff lube, mine's leaking. I used this gasket:


That shouldn't need RTV on either/both sides, correct? Goes on dry? I'm not sure why it's leaking. Best guess: When I was jacking the axle into place, the jack plate caught on the lip of the cover. I thought the tweak was just superficial, but now I'm wondering if it tweaked it just enough to make a poor seal between those two bolt holes. Remove and gently hammer flat? Can I reuse the gasket? What about just using RTV (Permatex Black) instead of or with the gasket?

View attachment 435151

In other news - DS motor mount is fully installed with all 7 bolts torqued down. Very pleased to have that part of the project done.
I would just get a new cover there not that much, even just over tightening a bolt can make them leak
 
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DaveO9

DaveO9

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I would just get a new cover there not that much, even just over tightening a bolt can make them leak
I have the lube locker gasket on order so I’m going to try that first, but if I can’t get a good seal I’ll go that route. Looks like $80-90 for a Yukon brand.

Good progress the last several days. Ran the lines for the factory-style engine oil cooler. Piece of cake with front diff out, looks like it would have been challenging with it in. Even got the support bracket bolted inot the block in stock location. Also did an assessment of all heater hoses and related today. I was trying to get one of the firewall tees off and broke the other one in the process! They’re both getting replaced , along with the hoses. For the hose that has the Y with a bigger hose going to the reservoir, I’m getting the upgraded Dorman with a metal Y-piece. Also going to do the AC belt - has GM markings on it so may be original! another $120 worth of parts on order from RA. I just have to keep telling my wife (and myself) - better than a huge car payment, or paying someone to do all this work. And definitely better than being broken down on the side of the road.
 
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Doubeleive

Wes
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I have the lube locker gasket on order so I’m going to try that first, but if I can’t get a good seal I’ll go that route. Looks like $80-90 for a Yukon brand.

Good progress the last several days. Ran the lines for the factory-style engine oil cooler. Piece of cake with front diff out, looks like it would have been challenging with it in. Even got the support bracket bolted inot the block in stock location. Also did an assessment of all heater hoses and related today. I was trying to get one of the firewall tees off and broke the other one in the process! They’re both getting replaced , along with the hoses. For the hose that has the Y with a bigger hose going to the reservoir, I’m getting the upgraded Dorman with a metal Y-piece. Also going to do the AC belt - has GM markings on it so may be original! another $120 worth of parts on order from RA. I just have to keep telling my wife (and myself) - better than a huge car payment, or paying someone to do all this work. And definitely better than being broken down on the side of the road.
if you have a anvil or something sturdy with a flat surface you could try and flatten it back out, if you get a aftermarket cover remember it has to clear the panhard bar. QA1 used to make a curved one that would give you a little more room. I have one on mine with a girdle
 

5StarCustmSolutns

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I bought it because of the part number. Got it in the other day, still in the sleeve.

We're supposed to work on the axle tomorrow or Saturday, to get that last .002-3 of ring gear clearance and do the yellow gear mesh thing before moving on.

I'm sure yours will be perfect!

Actually that might be a bad thing to say....or for someone to read. Some rear end patterns simply cant be made to be perfect on drive and coast. Backlash can be right in the dead center of the range and a pattern can be incredible on drive and buried down at the bottom of the toe on coast. And that really just one of ___(a number I'm not awake enough to calculate yet) different scenarios. Please correct me if Im wrong but perfect would be all 4 within spec and producing an acceptable pattern..... Then sending it. Not full send yet, just a confident send!

That's what I did anyways... It worked... It took me 3months to find the moxie to do it......Then a couple hours later it was done.
The Trutrac (and I guess my right foot) will cause the inside rear tire to start chirping when rolling hard onto the pedal while coming off an apex...
But! Right before I headed out to the garage for go time, I had a talk in the mirror and told myself that we weren't going to play shaving hairs today. We were going into the garage for: 16in lb +- 4 0.008 thou +- 4 and 75% or more of each gear tooth in the middle half, horizontally and vertically, of the tooth it was meshing with.
Probably could've hit send on my first pattern check? But I gave it a miniscule squeak of a turn and hit send
 

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