My oil pressure is low I believe but oil level is fine...starting to think I bought a lemon
I'm sorry.
what you're seeing is actually very common on this board for this generation. yours at almost 250k miles is considered high mileage for these. honestly about 150k they are ready for some fixer ups. easy to do it you're a diy mechanic, sadly, if not, a shop can run up a bill almost as high as you paid for the truck pretty quickly.
on the upside yours is still running and driving, another guy pushed his budget to get into one for his family, got a 3rd party pre inspection and all, said it was good. valve train ate itself in a few months and shop replaced the engine. it seemed like a rough spot financially.
so the good, with your high mileage, your transmission has probably already been rebuilt. they go about 150k if you don't fix some flaws before hand that require removing the tranny to do. your low oil pressure might be a tick low, but it's pretty common. caused by a lot of different things but good part is it's still above what gm calls minimum. I'd have to look it up but it's something like 6psi at 1000 rpm hot. so as long as it's not currently tapping, and the oil pressure pops up pretty quickly when you Rev it up. it's probably not going to leave you stranded right now. it should start tapping pretty loudly before it does that. I personally depending your climate, I'd go with a thicker oil, something like a 10w40. another user here has gone as high as 20w50 without any negative side effects, and he sends used oil samples out for testing. of course up north in a cold below zero winter, 10w40 would be better. but during a hot summer whatever makes it run better, use less oil is fine.
depending on how tight your budget is, at this point. maybe just keep oil in it and enjoy driving it. others might have a better idea than me, but I can't even guess how long it will last as is. maybe forever, maybe not. there's an old saying that sometimes rings true. a chevy will run badly longer than most cars will run. haha
there's good info in these 2 sticky threads that might get you up to speed on what to expect. and maybe plan for. the trend you'll find there is these trucks will last forever if you get them early and have the budget to keep up with maintenance and fix a few engineers flaws along the way, over all being much cheaper than buying a new car. but if you walk into them without knowing what you're getting into. it can be hard to get on top of.
Gentleman I have been put in charge of making a sticky with common questions asked on the forum. These include common problems (please provide fixes and pics), some of the common mods (provide pics, step by step instructions, etc.) i.e. not air ride but maybe leveling the rear or front. I am...
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Warning: this is a LONG read but may hold valuable information for others experiencing this same issue. This is what I've experienced and what seemed to work for me. Things may be different for you. Let me start from the beginning....there's also an amendment at the end of this post ---In June...
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oh, and that k&n is very dirty. in general unless you need that 5 extra hp at wide open throttle. we tend to run stock air boxes with good paper filters. they keep a lot of dirt out of the engine that a k&n doesn't. plus the mass air flow sensor is picky about how the air flows thru it and gm put a lot of effort into getting smooth airflow across that sensor. it's honestly not a huge deal, but in states with picky emissions testing, some have had to go back to stock airboxs to get emissions based fault codes to clear. if yours is a daily driver, you might ask someone with a stock one if they want to buy your k&n setup plus give you their stock one. might make a few $ and come out with a better running setup in the long run.
good luck with it. it looks nice in the pics.