Bypassing factory amp 2001 gmc Yukon XL SLT non Bose aftermarket replacement subwoofer

[LordWayback]

you don't need a adapter, the wire pin outs are all shown in the diagram above, test each speaker to verify and cut the wires and wire as needed directly to headunit or amp, the 00-01 is not hard at all. the rear door speakers are also wired to the rear pillar speakers so you really only have 5 channels at best presuming the rear sub isn't rotted to pieces already
**edit I could be wrong on the rear pillar speakers those "might" be wired separate from the amp behind the glove box

The speakers I bought are working fine and same with the wires I guess I’m pretty sure I’m getting pre amp signal I’m gonna follow the wiring diagram I found and test a bypass and see if it works i have some spare speaker wire to directly touch the pins and test any problems between pre amp wires and post amp wires I tested the speaker directly to the headunit wires and it worked so it’s narrowed down to the factory amp almost

 

[Doubeleive]

The speakers I bought are working fine and same with the wires I guess I’m pretty sure I’m getting pre amp signal I’m gonna follow the wiring diagram I found and test a bypass and see if it works i have some spare speaker wire to directly touch the pins and test any problems between pre amp wires and post amp wires I tested the speaker directly to the headunit wires and it worked so it’s narrowed down to the factory amp almost

are you using the factory radio or aftermarket radio?

 

[LordWayback]

you don't need a adapter, the wire pin outs are all shown in the diagram above, test each speaker to verify and cut the wires and wire as needed directly to headunit or amp, the 00-01 is not hard at all. the rear door speakers are also wired to the rear pillar speakers so you really only have 5 channels at best presuming the rear sub isn't rotted to pieces already
**edit I could be wrong on the rear pillar speakers those "might" be wired separate from the amp behind the glove box

There’s a lot of custom wiring being done I just didn’t wanna have to mess with the door connectors rear pillar speakers are midrange ones that I’ll have to special order considering they’re rotten and I’ll wire them to the rear door speakers wires with frequency filters and hide all of it im gonna add a 4 channel amp I hide behind my glovebox the monoblock you see here will be hidden under the driver side rear seat hopefully to deter theft I believe the coaxial 6.5” speakers driven by a aftermarket amp and sub(s) powered by amp will be plenty enough im considering putting my 8” sub on top of my 2 10’s I’m getting soon to have 3 subs lol

 

[LordWayback]

are you using the factory radio or aftermarket radio?

Aftermarket with this

 

[Doubeleive]

Aftermarket with thisView attachment 391749

I would not even bother with that adapter if it did not work plug-n-play already, beside it looks to short to reach where it needs to go
I would just patch the radio output to the speaker wires at the harness coming out of the factory amp probably need at least a couple feet of patch wire for each channel

 

[Doubeleive]

There’s a lot of custom wiring being done I just didn’t wanna have to mess with the door connectors rear pillar speakers are midrange ones that I’ll have to special order considering they’re rotten and I’ll wire them to the rear door speakers wires with frequency filters and hide all of it im gonna add a 4 channel amp I hide behind my glovebox the monoblock you see here will be hidden under the driver side rear seat hopefully to deter theft I believe the coaxial 6.5” speakers driven by a aftermarket amp and sub(s) powered by amp will be plenty enough im considering putting my 8” sub on top of my 2 10’s I’m getting soon to have 3 subs lol

if you going to use that amp you will need more patch wire
run the rca's from the headunit down the passenger side and under the carpet to your amp and then run the amp output wires back up to the factory amp output harness (to the speakers).
then run your amp power wire down the left side to the amp, ground it to a seat bolt, doing this separates the power and output wires and you won't end up with a bunch of hum noise/interference

 

[Doubeleive]

make sure you get shielded RCA cables, they cost a couple bucks more but worth it, that also creates less chance of interference, if you do not use shielded you might end up buying them twice (to get the shielded ones the 2nd time lol)

 

[LordWayback]

make sure you get shielded RCA cables, they cost a couple bucks more but worth it, that also creates less chance of interference, if you do not use shielded you might end up buying them twice (to get the shielded ones the 2nd time lol)

Patch wires?, my amp came with a wiring kit the adapter I showed connectors from the headunit to the factory harness to the amp bypass and to the doors , this is what I’m working with , I think I’m gonna buy another male connector for the factory amp and rewire the head unit in colors that match the headunit to make diagnostics easier for now I’m waiting for the amp bypass connector to make everything easily changeable I could splice the wires but then when it’d come time to add a new 4 channel it’d be a lot more confusing I’m trying to fix the problem right now which is no power coming from 3/4 door speaker’s wiring I believe the factory amp kicked the bucket.
I was able to get the aftermarket amp to turn on previously but never make the subwoofer hit so I’m practically starting from scratch with the wiring eventually

 

[Doubeleive]

Patch wires?, my amp came with a wiring kit the adapter I showed connectors from the headunit to the factory harness to the amp bypass and to the doors , this is what I’m working with , I think I’m gonna buy another male connector for the factory amp and rewire the head unit in colors that match the headunit to make diagnostics easier for now I’m waiting for the amp bypass connector to make everything easily changeable I could splice the wires but then when it’d come time to add a new 4 channel it’d be a lot more confusing I’m trying to fix the problem right now which is no power coming from 3/4 door speaker’s wiring I believe the factory amp kicked the bucket.
I was able to get the aftermarket amp to turn on previously but never make the subwoofer hit so I’m practically starting from scratch with the wiring eventually

your post says "i would like to bypass the factory amp"
all I am saying is if factory amp bit the dust then you do not need it anyway.
you can run wires from the headunit speaker output directly the vehicle speaker wires, all you need is about 2 feet of wire for each channel, +/- so 8 wires 2ft each
each wire goes from the back of the headunit to the corresponding speaker wire that came out of the blown factory amp.
that is how you "bypass" the factory amp, simple 20 minutes and done- rockin out

 

[LordWayback]

your post says "i would like to bypass the factory amp"
all I am saying is if factory amp bit the dust then you do not need it anyway.
you can run wires from the headunit speaker output directly the vehicle speaker wires, all you need is about 2 feet of wire for each channel, +/- so 8 wires 2ft each
each wire goes from the back of the headunit to the corresponding speaker wire that came out of the blown factory amp.
that is how you "bypass" the factory amp, simple 20 minutes and done- rockin out

We are on the exact same page I was just trying to do it the lazy way I’m gonna link the factory amp input and output wires with a infinity plug until I complete the other 2 of the big 3 upgrade I still need a different battery, alternator, then all new wiring for now just a mono block 2 10’s maybe a different head unit than this aftermarket one one with more adjustability and power. I’m currently low on speaker wire