Bypassing factory amp 2001 gmc Yukon XL SLT non Bose aftermarket replacement subwoofer

[MassHoe04]

Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but I just replaced the factory stereo and speakers in my 2001 non-Bose with factory amp. Not only is the factory amp a P.O.S., it has a built-in crossover that won't send any of the low end frequencies to the door speakers.

The Metra 70-2021 mentioned a few times will work to completely bypass the factory amp (behind the glove box) and send the speaker output from the new head unit directly to the front and rear door speakers, although you do have to swap the wires around (see below). Also, you'll lose the rear "subwoofer" (no big loss there) and the rear tweeters in the door pillars (also, no loss for me). At some point, I'll probably add a powered sub under the back seat but having the new door speakers with full range really sounds good enough for my back-and-forth-to-work-mobile.

To swap wire locations on the harness: Leave A1-A4 and B1-B4 in place and pull out A9-A12 and B9-B12. Then connect as follows:
A1-A9
A2-A10
A3-A11
A4-A12
B1-B9
B2-B10
B3-B11
B4-B12

To me, it was less f@cking around to buy the connector and swap the pins around than to run speaker wires to the amp location and cut/splice all the wires. YMMV.

Nice write-up! Thanks for posting!

 

[LordWayback]

Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but I just replaced the factory stereo and speakers in my 2001 non-Bose with factory amp. Not only is the factory amp a P.O.S., it has a built-in crossover that won't send any of the low end frequencies to the door speakers.

The Metra 70-2021 mentioned a few times will work to completely bypass the factory amp (behind the glove box) and send the speaker output from the new head unit directly to the front and rear door speakers, although you do have to swap the wires around (see below). Also, you'll lose the rear "subwoofer" (no big loss there) and the rear tweeters in the door pillars (also, no loss for me). At some point, I'll probably add a powered sub under the back seat but having the new door speakers with full range really sounds good enough for my back-and-forth-to-work-mobile.

To swap wire locations on the harness: Leave A1-A4 and B1-B4 in place and pull out A9-A12 and B9-B12. Then connect as follows:
A1-A9
A2-A10
A3-A11
A4-A12
B1-B9
B2-B10
B3-B11
B4-B12

To me, it was less f@cking around to buy the connector and swap the pins around than to run speaker wires to the amp location and cut/splice all the wires. YMMV.

I actually have a way better system now besides a aftermarket door speaker /tweeter amplifier but I basically cut the wires at the ends and followed a wiring diagram I think I’m gonna clean out my truck and take some pictures of the exact wires that need to be put together in a 2001 gmc Yukon xL no Bose with subwoofer I bought the metra harness that was supposed to work and I got scammed on eBay so I hillbillied the wires together I’m considering making a wiring diagram for future entries as mine is already done on headunit power and sub amp with 2 12’s skar super tweeters and skar tx65’s

 

[LordWayback]

Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but I just replaced the factory stereo and speakers in my 2001 non-Bose with factory amp. Not only is the factory amp a P.O.S., it has a built-in crossover that won't send any of the low end frequencies to the door speakers.

The Metra 70-2021 mentioned a few times will work to completely bypass the factory amp (behind the glove box) and send the speaker output from the new head unit directly to the front and rear door speakers, although you do have to swap the wires around (see below). Also, you'll lose the rear "subwoofer" (no big loss there) and the rear tweeters in the door pillars (also, no loss for me). At some point, I'll probably add a powered sub under the back seat but having the new door speakers with full range really sounds good enough for my back-and-forth-to-work-mobile.

To swap wire locations on the harness: Leave A1-A4 and B1-B4 in place and pull out A9-A12 and B9-B12. Then connect as follows:
A1-A9
A2-A10
A3-A11
A4-A12
B1-B9
B2-B10
B3-B11
B4-B12

To me, it was less f@cking around to buy the connector and swap the pins around than to run speaker wires to the amp location and cut/splice all the wires. YMMV.

Assuming it’s a 2001 tahoe /suburban etc I would highly recommend the box I have with different subs (they have a unique smell when going hard that doesn’t go away unlike other subs I’ve seen friends use) and go for the big boy skar amp 1200+ w rms and 1/0 wiring like I did if you invest in the big boy amp like bigger than mine you can rattle your headliner to your hearts content with a nice battery and big 3 upgrade (I have yet to do my big 3 but I have other projects like my camo headliner).

 

[Jeta1]

I actually have a way better system now besides a aftermarket door speaker /tweeter amplifier but I basically cut the wires at the ends and followed a wiring diagram I think I’m gonna clean out my truck and take some pictures of the exact wires that need to be put together in a 2001 gmc Yukon xL no Bose with subwoofer I bought the metra harness that was supposed to work and I got scammed on eBay so I hillbillied the wires together I’m considering making a wiring diagram for future entries as mine is already done on headunit power and sub amp with 2 12’s skar super tweeters and skar tx65’s View attachment 409239

That would be super helpful. Previous owner replaced front speakers and did a complete hack job behind glove box. Just need a diagram the explains output from radio (color speaker wires) and direct to speakers from amp (to bypass).

 

[LordWayback]

That would be super helpful. Previous owner replaced front speakers and did a complete hack job behind glove box. Just need a diagram the explains output from radio (color speaker wires) and direct to speakers from amp (to bypass).

I have to do a full write up but if you cut and splice these wires together all door speakers should work this is excluding tweeters and factory subwoofer i have aftermarket speaker spades in all 4 doors to have power going to the speakers from the factory wiring if you copy this exactly and have your door speakers wired like I do it should work then you just use a OEM adapter harness and use the adapter harness to connect to a amps output for door speakers and you’ll be good probably up to 200 watts a door speaker if you need more than 250 watts a door speaker you just trace each individual wire and replace it with whatever gauge i have 4 12 gauge wires pushing 212’s at 1200 w rms if you want rear pillars back you can tag off 2 of your door speakers depending on options selected at the manufacturing of vehicle you may have to flip polarity on the rear speakers

 

[LordWayback]

That would be super helpful. Previous owner replaced front speakers and did a complete hack job behind glove box. Just need a diagram the explains output from radio (color speaker wires) and direct to speakers from amp (to bypass).

The wiring diagram will have to wait but if you want a quick fix just copy my wiring and if the rear speakers don’t work you may have to swap polarity I believe I did this wiring with oem speakers and wiring so as long as it’s copied to a t and with good connections it should bump as pictured.

 

[LordWayback]

That would be super helpful. Previous owner replaced front speakers and did a complete hack job behind glove box. Just need a diagram the explains output from radio (color speaker wires) and direct to speakers from amp (to bypass).

If you’re missing wires completely up to the speaker inputs post amplifier i have to take out my head unit