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LordWayback
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Bypassing factory amp 2001 gmc Yukon XL SLT non Bose aftermarket replacement subwoofer
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I left mine in my 00 it's probably here in town somewhere I haven't seen it in a couple years though
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LordWayback
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LordWayback
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Most of it is hidden now
ScottyBoy
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I made an amp bypass for my 2001 just like the instructions you posted. It's been so long now (probably 10 years or more since I bypassed it) so I can't remember every single detail. I do remember buying a harness for a Saturn, and I repinned a few of the wires. Then it was plug and play after that, and it's been fine ever since. I do have an aftermarket stereo and aftermarket speakers.
I'd be interested in knowing how you get good oil pressure like that with the engine off.
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LordWayback
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There’s a theory of a sticky gauge or failing oil pressure sensor.I'd be interested in knowing how you get good oil pressure like that with the engine off.
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LordWayback
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I don’t know how Metra managed to give me the wrong connector in the correct bag
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LordWayback
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It’s the exact same connector so I’m just gonna shove the wires into the factory connector
Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but I just replaced the factory stereo and speakers in my 2001 non-Bose with factory amp. Not only is the factory amp a P.O.S., it has a built-in crossover that won't send any of the low end frequencies to the door speakers.
The Metra 70-2021 mentioned a few times will work to completely bypass the factory amp (behind the glove box) and send the speaker output from the new head unit directly to the front and rear door speakers, although you do have to swap the wires around (see below). Also, you'll lose the rear "subwoofer" (no big loss there) and the rear tweeters in the door pillars (also, no loss for me). At some point, I'll probably add a powered sub under the back seat but having the new door speakers with full range really sounds good enough for my back-and-forth-to-work-mobile.
To swap wire locations on the harness: Leave A1-A4 and B1-B4 in place and pull out A9-A12 and B9-B12. Then connect as follows:
A1-A9
A2-A10
A3-A11
A4-A12
B1-B9
B2-B10
B3-B11
B4-B12
To me, it was less f@cking around to buy the connector and swap the pins around than to run speaker wires to the amp location and cut/splice all the wires. YMMV.
The Metra 70-2021 mentioned a few times will work to completely bypass the factory amp (behind the glove box) and send the speaker output from the new head unit directly to the front and rear door speakers, although you do have to swap the wires around (see below). Also, you'll lose the rear "subwoofer" (no big loss there) and the rear tweeters in the door pillars (also, no loss for me). At some point, I'll probably add a powered sub under the back seat but having the new door speakers with full range really sounds good enough for my back-and-forth-to-work-mobile.
To swap wire locations on the harness: Leave A1-A4 and B1-B4 in place and pull out A9-A12 and B9-B12. Then connect as follows:
A1-A9
A2-A10
A3-A11
A4-A12
B1-B9
B2-B10
B3-B11
B4-B12
To me, it was less f@cking around to buy the connector and swap the pins around than to run speaker wires to the amp location and cut/splice all the wires. YMMV.
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