can just barely make it to work and back

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SunlitComet

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uh no it is not nor does it let you restart again and start driving again. besides if the gear finally did wear out enough to just strip out the oil pressure would have failed permanently as well.
 

Always Wrenching

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Actually mine started and drove for weeks when it was very worn. Timing just kept jumping around causing it to run like crap. It ran fine at times but shit at other times till finallythe gear gave out. So it is a possibility. Im not saying it is their issue but easy and free to check out if they have a scan tool to retime it. Parts stores in my area even carry the gear on hand because it is so common of an issue. Just an extra idea when trying to diagnose their truck!
 

SunlitComet

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of course it is a possibility but it is not a very common issue as you stated. if you determined that a part on hand at a local parts store, then well everything in that store would have to be a very common issue. the fact is it is a very small part and takes little room to stock. around here it is a $50 part delco part in local parts stores and is available at only about every twenty mile distance of the same company. if some other store needs it they will get to your chosen store within a few hours. it is the same with the lower intake manifold availability. one other thing to note is that gear has over 350+ vehicle/engine variation. so based on application list and chances of the engine being use in large mass of local vehicles, distance and shipping time from distributor, and small packaging size among other things you are likely to find it or be able to get it within 24 hrs. max.
 
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keruzam93

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noticed on the scan tool that the cam retard was at -17 so i figured if i was going to be in there i would just replace the distributor, cap, and rotor anyways to be safe. and set the timing to 0, the original problem got a little bit better but it is still there, still no code. but now i have dead misses on 3 and 4 that started with the change in distributor and timing, replaced the new cap in case of an internal short in the cap but that didn't help, and if i let the truck warm up all the way and re start it the misses go away and the truck runs fine except it wont go over 3000 rpm. can someone explain what the tranny issues are that your talking about? just because i've run out of ideas. and i will check the ground next time i have time to get it on the lift. and thanks for all of the input so far feels like we're getting closer

---------- Post added at 06:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:01 PM ----------

oh ant id doesnt die anymore that was only when it first happened but i was in the mud at the time, now it stays running but if i punch it it wont go over whatever rpm it feels like at the time and boggs and pops and sputters
 

SunlitComet

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measure the cam_retard while maintaining 1000 rpm only. and make adjustments and re measure the same way. also if you were more then 2° off in either direction the pcm would have broadcasted P1345 to you.

when the tranny looses electrical power it goes into a limp mode which keeps it in one gear and makes it somewhat drivable enough for you to get it to a shop. he was thinking the vehicle speed sensor on your tranny(2wd) or t-case(4wd) might be causing the issue. but nothing indicates a broken vss or being in a limp mode should just stall an engine. there is something else going on.
 
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keruzam93

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its somewhere between 0 and -1 now. and it was at -17 with no code so idk what that was all about. also definitely not tranny limp mode then because i can go trough all of the gears
 
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keruzam93

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it comes from the back of the engine, cant tell exactly where, to the right frame rail, and from there to the body.
 

SunlitComet

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those are primary grounding straps. sort of like bonding straps from one major component to another. and you probably mean the back of the cylinder head.

Engine Harness, Right Rear
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