I went on a drive (over highway 17 and back) and the temp. stayed steady. The temp. did drop a bit on 5-6 mile downhill but not much. I think filling and burping the cooling system did the trick. If that's it - the easiest fix I've ever completed. At this point the DIY gods owed me that.
No new codes are showing up. However, I do see my long term fuel trims are at +9% during idle. I don't think the fuel filter or fuel pump has ever been changed (180k miles). I'm considering doing a fuel pressure test to start with. Also I plan to rig up my scanner with long and short trims showing and drive around to see if the engine goes lean requiring more positive trim.
If the positive trims at idle is something that just started happening, re-check the intake plumbing. If the intake tube between the MAF and the throttle body has any leaks, that will cause unmetered air to enter the system (like a vacuum leak). What are the short term fuel trims looking like when the LTFTs are positive?
Agree to document the fuel pressure with the standard tests. Regulated fuel pressure should be around 43-45 psi at idle.
A couple other things to check with a warm engine:
- read the MAF g/s at idle, that should be approximately the same as the engine displacement in liters (e.g., 4.8, 5.3, etc.)
- read the short term fuel trims at idle, then at 1800 or 2000 rpm. If they're very positive at idle but go down with higher rpms, start looking for a vacuum leak.
- are the upstream O2 sensors reacting and voltages moving between 0.1 and 0.9v?