Charging system gut check

[trevcda]

Just started today: battery light is lit steadily and the voltage meter has dropped from 14V to 10V, also holding steadily. I'm thinking it's the alternator. I'll get a code reader on it soon, but have no problem just switching out the alternator if that's what it most likely is

 

[SunlitComet]

no reader needed. the regulator is built in and helps illuminate that light when a fault is detected. repair or replace the unit. there are higher output options if you like. in the meantime get the battery charged and keep it disconnected until repaired.

 

[trevcda]

Thanks, I thought so. Any suggestions on brands, amperage and reman vs new?

 

[SunlitComet]

if you want to do a little wrenching and remove the support bracket on the rear of the alt you can fit a nbs 145a alt in its place. the catch is you have to move the whole aluminum mount forward a bit to get that support bracket bolt out all the way. also that a new belt of different length will be needed as well. i always prefer new and from the delphi/delco for that ad-244 stock upgrade. or stick with the cs130 type you have and get high amp versions from someone like powermaster. those will cost more.

 

[trevcda]

Nice! Not for this one though. It's in nice shape, but it is pretty much a tow/winter vehicle. I'm looking for stock drop in equipment. Looks like a lot of AC lines around it. You wouldn't happen to have a link to a alternator R/R tutorial, would you? I need to make this a quick change or put it off for a few weeks. And thanks for the advice all the way around.

Added: This seems to sum it up nicely. I have rear AC so there are more AC lines around the alternator.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W41w3UeT95I

 

[SunlitComet]

well the quickest way is to get a remanned unit from a local store. it will likely be a house brand and be the stock 105a unit. but that is all you will need. you will have three bolts, plug connector ans output wire only to do. no special instructions. just budge any thing in the way to the side as you remove it. but you can also get the 145 a parts from your local store. for a remanned unit you would want the equivelant of this

http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-334-2529A-Professional-Alternator-Remanufactured/dp/B002QVHN7O

and belt
Goodyear Gatorback Gator Back 4060967/6pk2455



this is what i use now and the conversion was about an hour.


the nbs alt is the 145a version for say as an example 2003 nbs tahoe with 5.3l engine.


if you want to get into it.

---------- Post added at 12:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:44 PM ----------

there is one other thing. no matter what when you release the belt tensioner don't let it snap back under spring tension. release it slowly once the belt is off. or it will likely break internally and have weak tension.

 

[trevcda]

I really am more mechanically inclined than I like to let on sometimes. Turns out that someone had replaced whatever was originally in there with an aftermarket 105A sometime before 2009. And as you eluded to, the parts house had a reman'd 105A house brand, so I went with it, mostly for an easily swap out. There were other options as far as amperage went, but they all had external fans, where as the one I put in had internal fans like the one it replaced. Other than the obvious, what does this option mean to me?

In any case the deed is done for now at least and all lights are off and charging is back up to +14V on the gauge. Dirty job, but pretty easy.

 

[SunlitComet]

the original design was a 105a. the factory one probably just broke on them. as far as the fan being inside vs outside the dual internal ones after cooling drawn from both ends and blown out the middle somewhere. the external ones still cool as well. higher amps output is exactly that, more power to run more equipment and still maintain a battery charge. that number is usually the high speed output when idling it is lower but upgrading still increases that number as well. just depends on your power needs.